You’ve probably heard of the place that smells like chocolate. It’s a real thing. Drive into St. Stephen New Brunswick Canada on a day when the wind hits just right, and the air genuinely carries the scent of boiling sugar and dark cocoa. But honestly, if you think this town is just a backdrop for a candy factory, you’re missing the weirdest, most resilient parts of its soul.
St. Stephen is a border town. That sounds simple, right? It isn't.
Sitting directly across the St. Croix River from Calais, Maine, this community doesn't just "neighbor" the United States—it breathes with it. Historically, when one side had a fire, the other sent their trucks. When one side ran out of water, the other opened the taps. In 2026, that relationship is being tested by modern trade tensions and shifting borders, but the locals? They're still grabbing coffee at Carman’s Diner and wondering what all the fuss is about up in Ottawa or D.C.
The Chocolate Myth vs. The Sticky Reality
Everyone calls it "Canada’s Chocolate Town." This isn't just a marketing slogan dreamt up by a bored tourism board; it was officially registered in 2000. The Ganong family has been making candy here since 1873. That’s five generations of sugar.
👉 See also: Why the Polar Express Train Arizona in Williams is Still the Gold Standard for Holiday Magic
Most people visit the Chocolate Museum, which is housed in the old factory. It's cool, sure. You can see the hand-dipping stations where artisans still finish chocolates with those specific "signatures" on top. But the real story is in the weird inventions. Did you know the heart-shaped chocolate box was popularized here? Or the first fully wrapped chocolate bar? Arthur Ganong apparently invented the latter because he wanted a snack for his fishing trips that wouldn't melt in his pockets.
Then there are Chicken Bones.
If you aren't from the Maritimes, a Chicken Bone is a polarizing experience. It’s a spicy cinnamon hard candy shell with a center of bittersweet dark chocolate. It sounds like it shouldn't work. It’s crunchy, then suddenly melty, then weirdly spicy. You either buy them by the case or you can't stand the sight of them. There is no middle ground.
A Border Without a Barrier?
Walking along the waterfront trail, you can see Maine. It is right there. It’s so close you could skip a stone into another country.
Historically, St. Stephen and Calais acted like one big town with a river running through the middle. They share an International Homecoming Festival every August. There’s a parade that literally starts in one country and ends in the other.
But things have been heavy lately. By early 2025, the "tariff wars" started hitting hard. Mayor Allan MacEachern has been vocal about how these global political games hurt local families. When you live in a place where 26,000 fewer people cross the border in a single month—as happened recently—the local shops feel it immediately. Businesses like The Dock Apartments and the new hotel development at 19 Budd Avenue are bets on a future where the border stays open and friendly.
The "World's Oldest" You Never Knew About
St. Stephen has a claim to fame that has nothing to do with sugar. It’s home to the world's oldest basketball court.
Located in an old YMCA building (now the St. Stephen University property), this court dates back to 1893. It’s just two years after James Naismith invented the game. The floor is original. The feel of the place is hauntingly quiet. It’s a reminder that this town was a hub of innovation and "firsts" long before the 401 highway or big-box stores existed.
Life on the Skutik
The indigenous Passamaquoddy people called the river the Skutik. Today, the river is the town's playground and its greatest challenge.
✨ Don't miss: Why LaSalle Street Station is Chicago's Best Kept Commuter Secret
- The Tides: Because it feeds into the Bay of Fundy, the river level rises and falls dramatically. You can watch the mudflats appear and disappear from the downtown wharf.
- Ganong Nature Park: This is 350 acres of coastline and trails. It’s where you go to actually see the "intertidal areas"—basically the land that the ocean borrows for a few hours every day.
- Canoose Outpost: If you want to actually get on the water, this is the spot for tubing or canoeing. It’s a "wild" ride, meaning you’re going to get wet and probably see a bald eagle or two.
Is St. Stephen Actually Changing?
Small towns in New Brunswick usually face one of two fates: they either wither away as kids move to Toronto, or they reinvent themselves. St. Stephen is trying the latter.
The Garcelon Civic Center is the heart of this. It’s a massive, modern complex for hockey, swimming, and conferences. It’s also where the town hall lives. It’s a weirdly high-tech hub for a town of about 8,000 people.
But it’s not all glossy brochures. The town has struggled with homelessness and the opioid crisis, just like every other city in North America. In 2025, five unhoused individuals passed away in the community—a statistic that shook the local government into opening more collaborative care clinics. It's a "real" place, with real problems, not just a postcard.
Planning Your Visit: What to Actually Do
If you’re heading to St. Stephen New Brunswick Canada, don’t just do a drive-by.
👉 See also: Why Hurricane Bar Hilton Head Island Is Still the Best Spot for a Sunset Drink
- Eat at Carman’s Diner. It’s a 1950s-style spot. Order the breakfast. Listen to the locals talk about the border. It’s the best news source in the province.
- Walk the 1.8km Waterfront Trail. It connects the Coastal Link Trail to the East Coast Greenway. It’s paved, easy, and gives you the best views of the "gateway" to the Atlantic.
- The Chocolate Museum is a must, but skip the gift shop lines. Go into the Ganong Chocolatier Shop downtown instead. It's the "company store" vibe and has the freshest stuff.
- Check out Dover Hill Park. It’s the spot for the "graduation photo" view. In the winter, it’s the best toboggan hill in the county.
St. Stephen is a place defined by its edges. The edge of the country, the edge of the river, and the edge of a very sweet, very old history. It isn't perfect, and the wind doesn't always smell like chocolate—sometimes it just smells like salt and mud—but that’s exactly why it’s worth the stop.
Your Next Steps for St. Stephen:
- Check the Border Wait Times: If you're crossing from Calais, use the official CBSA tracker to decide between the Ferry Point Bridge (downtown) or the International Avenue bridge (commercial/faster).
- Book the "Hand-Dipping" Tour: These sell out during the summer months; call the Chocolate Museum at least a week in advance to secure a spot where you actually see the artisans at work.
- Visit in August: If you want the full "International" experience, time your trip for the Homecoming Festival to see the cross-border fireworks.