You’ve seen the photos of Trunk Bay. They’re everywhere. It’s that one beach with the little island sitting in the middle of a turquoise bowl, and honestly, it looks fake. Most people assume there’s a massive resort just out of frame or a Starbucks tucked behind a palm tree.
But there isn't.
That’s the thing about St John US Virgin Islands. It’s the smallest of the three main USVIs, yet it carries the most weight for anyone who actually likes the outdoors. About 60% of the island is protected by the Virgin Islands National Park. Think about that for a second. While other islands in the Caribbean were busy selling off every square inch of beachfront to mega-corporations for high-rise condos, St John was essentially frozen in time thanks to Laurence Rockefeller. In 1956, he donated the land to the federal government, and he basically saved the island from becoming another concrete jungle. It’s quiet. It’s rugged. It’s kind of a pain to get to because there’s no airport, and that is exactly why it’s better than wherever you were planning to go instead.
Getting There Without Losing Your Mind
You can’t fly to St John. Don't even try looking for a flight code. You have to fly into St Thomas (STT), grab a taxi to Red Hook or Charlotte Amalie, and then hop on a ferry.
The Red Hook ferry is the standard move. It’s a 20-minute ride. It runs every hour on the hour. If you miss it, you’re sitting at a dockside bar for 59 minutes, which actually isn't the worst way to start a trip. Most people get flustered by the logistics, but the ferry ride is your transition. You watch the cruise ships in St Thomas disappear, and the green, lush hills of St John start to loom large. By the time you dock in Cruz Bay, the "hustle" of the mainland feels like a different planet.
The Trunk Bay Trap (And Why You’ll Fall Into It Anyway)
Is Trunk Bay overrated? Probably. Is it still one of the most beautiful places on Earth? Absolutely. It’s the only beach on the island that charges an entry fee, which keeps some of the crowds away, but not all of them.
The underwater snorkeling trail is the big draw here. There are literal signs underwater telling you what kind of coral you’re looking at. It’s great for kids or people who aren't strong swimmers. But if you want the real St John, you have to go further. You have to go to Maho Bay.
Maho is where the sea turtles hang out. You don't even need a boat. You just walk into the water, swim out about 30 yards to the seagrass beds, and wait. You’ll see them. Green sea turtles, hawksbills, and sometimes a stray stingray or two. It’s wild because there’s no fence and no tour guide charging you $150. It’s just you and the turtles. The water is usually calm like a lake because the bay is so protected. It’s the kind of place where you lose four hours of your life and don't even care.
The Cruz Bay vs. Coral Bay Divide
St John is split into two main vibes.
Cruz Bay is the "city." I use that term loosely because it’s really just a handful of narrow streets packed with bars, boutiques, and rental Jeep agencies. This is where the ferry drops you off. It’s loud, it’s fun, and the Happy Hour at The Longboard or Woody’s is legendary. If you want to be near the action and the "big" beaches along North Shore Road, stay here.
Then there’s Coral Bay.
Coral Bay is on the opposite side of the island. It’s where the locals, the "donkey-dodgers," and the sailors live. It’s way more laid back. There are no fancy boutiques. There are goats in the road. It feels like the Caribbean did forty years ago. If you stay in Coral Bay, you’re choosing peace over convenience. You’ll spend more time driving your Jeep over the mountain (Centerline Road), but you’ll get to eat at places like Skinny Legs, where the burgers are world-class and the atmosphere is strictly "no-frills."
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Why You Absolutely Need a Jeep
Don't try to save money by renting a compact car. Seriously. Just don't.
St John is vertical. The roads are basically paved goat paths with 30-degree inclines and hairpin turns that will make your passenger scream. If it rains, a two-wheel-drive car is just a very expensive slide. You need the clearance and the 4WD. Also, the island has wild donkeys. They are descendants of animals used in the sugar plantations centuries ago. They have the right of way. If a donkey is standing in the middle of the road, you wait. You don't honk. You just take a picture and realize you’re on island time now.
Hiking the Reef Bay Trail
If you think St John is just about lying on sand, you’re missing the best part. The Reef Bay Trail is a roughly 2.2-mile hike (one way) that drops about 900 feet in elevation.
It’s a trek through a tropical forest that leads you past ancient sugar mill ruins and, most importantly, the petroglyphs. These are rock carvings made by the Taino people, the original inhabitants of the island, long before Europeans arrived. They are located at the base of a small waterfall. Standing there, surrounded by dense jungle and the sound of dripping water, you realize how much history is packed into these 20 square miles. Just remember: what goes down must come up. The hike back up is a brutal, sweaty incline. Bring twice as much water as you think you need.
The "Secret" Beaches You Shouldn't Ignore
Everyone goes to the North Shore. Cinnamon Bay, Honeymoon Beach, Hawksnest—they’re all icons. But if you want to escape the cruise ship day-trippers who come over from St Thomas, head south or east.
- Salt Pond Bay: It’s a bit of a hike from the parking area, but the water is incredibly clear. From here, you can hike the Ram Head Trail. It’s the southernmost point of the island. The terrain looks like something out of a Western movie—cactus, rocky cliffs, and crashing blue waves. It’s a stark contrast to the calm, white-sand beaches elsewhere.
- Hansen Bay: Located way out past Coral Bay. You have to drive almost to the end of the road. It’s private land, so you usually pay a small fee to park, but the snorkeling at Pelican Rock is some of the best on the island.
- Lameshur Bay: The road to get here is terrible. I mean, truly awful. Large rocks, deep ruts, and steep drops. But because it’s so hard to get to, you might have the entire beach to yourself.
Eating and Drinking on a Budget (Is it Possible?)
Let’s be honest: St John is expensive. Most food is barged in from St Thomas or Florida. A gallon of milk might cost you $10. If you eat out for every meal, your bank account will feel it.
The pro move is to hit the Starfish Market near the ferry terminal as soon as you arrive. Stock up on snacks and booze. But when you do go out, look for the "pate" stands. Not pâté like the French liver spread, but Caribbean pates—deep-fried dough pockets filled with spiced beef, saltfish, or chicken. They are cheap, filling, and authentic.
For drinks, the "Painkiller" is the unofficial cocktail of the islands. It’s rum, pineapple juice, orange juice, and cream of coconut, topped with fresh nutmeg. Be careful. They go down like juice, but they'll knock you sideways if you aren't careful. Joe’s Rum Hut or The Drink are great spots to grab one and watch the sunset over the harbor.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Weather
People worry about hurricane season (June to November). And yeah, you should buy travel insurance during those months. But even in the "perfect" winter months, you’ll get rain.
Tropical rain isn't like a gray, drizzly day in London. It’s a 10-minute deluge that feels like someone dumped a bucket on your head, followed by immediate sunshine and a rainbow. Don't cancel your plans because the weather app shows a rain cloud. Those apps are almost always wrong about the Caribbean. The wind is a bigger factor. If the "Christmas Winds" are blowing hard in December or January, the North Shore beaches can get wavy and the visibility for snorkeling drops. That’s your cue to head to the South Shore.
The Reality of Island Life
It’s not all postcards. St John has its struggles. The power goes out sometimes. The internet can be spotty. The infrastructure is still recovering in some ways from the massive hurricanes (Irma and Maria) of 2017.
But that’s part of the charm. People here are resilient. There’s a "Love City" vibe that isn't just a marketing slogan. If you break down on the side of the road, three people will stop to help you within five minutes. If you’re rude or in a rush, you’ll get nowhere. Start every conversation with "Good morning" or "Good afternoon." It’s the local custom, and it goes a long way.
Practical Steps for Planning Your Trip
- Book your Jeep early. Like, six months early. They sell out faster than villas. Check with local agencies like St. John Car Rental or Spencer’s before trying the big national brands.
- Download the Virgin Islands National Park map. Cell service is non-existent in the valley of Reef Bay or out at Salt Pond. You need an offline map or a physical one.
- Pack "Island Style." You don't need heels or fancy dresses. Most places have a "no shoes, no shirt, no problem" policy, though you should at least throw on a cover-up for lunch. Focus on sun-protective clothing (SPF shirts) because the Caribbean sun is significantly stronger than you think.
- Buy Reef-Safe Sunscreen. The USVI passed a law banning sunscreens containing the "Toxic 3 O’s" (Oxybenzone, Octinoxate, and Octocrylene). If you bring the cheap stuff from home, you’re literally killing the coral you came to see. Buy mineral-based sunscreen (Zinc Oxide or Titanium Dioxide).
- Check the Cruise Ship Schedule. If there are four giant ships docked in St Thomas, St John will be flooded with day-trippers. Those are the days to hide out in Coral Bay or go for a long hike. When the ships are gone, the island feels like your own private paradise.
St John US Virgin Islands isn't for everyone. If you need an all-inclusive resort with a swim-up bar and a scheduled "fun coordinator," go to Punta Cana. But if you want to wake up to the sound of roosters, snorkel with wild creatures, and find a beach where the only footprints are yours, this is the place. It’s raw, it’s beautiful, and it’s one of the last places in the Caribbean that hasn't lost its soul to a gift shop.