You’ve probably heard everyone raving about Coeur d’Alene. It’s pretty, sure. But if you actually want to see what North Idaho looked like before the condos and the crowds took over, you have to drive a bit further south into the St. Joe National Forest. It’s basically 866,000 acres of rugged, vertical terrain that makes most tourist parks look like a backyard. People call the St. Joe River the "river through the lakes" because it technically flows through Lake Coeur d'Alene, but honestly, the higher you go up into the forest, the more the crowds just... disappear.
It’s wild.
The U.S. Forest Service manages this massive chunk of land as part of the Idaho Panhandle National Forests, but the "Joe" has its own specific vibe. It isn't just a place to hike; it’s a working forest with a history rooted in the Great Burn of 1910. That fire shaped everything you see today. If you look closely at the ridges, you can still see the ghosts of that era in the way the trees have grown back over the last century.
The River That Defies Logic
Let’s talk about the St. Joe River. It’s the crown jewel here. This isn't just some muddy creek; it’s a federally designated Wild and Scenic River. What’s weird—and actually true—is that it is the highest navigable river in the world. You’ve got boats moving through water at over 2,100 feet of elevation.
Anglers lose their minds over this place. Why? Westslope cutthroat trout. These fish are native, they’re aggressive, and the upper reaches of the St. Joe are world-class for catch-and-release fly fishing. You aren't just tossing a line in; you're often standing in water so clear you can count the spots on a trout's back before it even hits your fly. Experts like those at the Silver Bow Fly Shop often point to the "Upper Joe" as the place to go when you want to escape the more pressured waters of the nearby Coeur d'Alene River.
Where to Actually Go (The Spots Locals Don't Post About)
Most people just drive Highway 50 and call it a day. Big mistake.
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If you want the real experience, you head toward the Mallard-Larkins Pioneer Area. This is a roadless area, which is bureaucratic speak for "you’re going to have to work for it." It straddles the divide between the St. Joe and the Clearwater National Forests. The peaks here, like Mallard Peak, hit around 6,700 feet. There’s a lookout tower up there. It was built in the 1920s and it looks like something out of a Wes Anderson movie, except much grittier.
The Marble Creek area is another weirdly fascinating spot. Back in the day, this was the epicenter of steam-donkey logging. You can still find old steam engines and rusted cables rotting away in the woods. It’s haunting. It reminds you that the St. Joe National Forest wasn't always a playground; it was a brutal workplace for thousands of loggers who lived in transient camps.
Camping Realities
Don't expect luxury resorts.
- Shadowy St. Joe Campground: This is your best bet if you have a trailer. It’s right on the river and has paved spots.
- Conrad Crossing: Further up. Smaller. More "I might see a moose in my cereal" vibes.
- Dispersed Camping: This is the real way to see the forest. You can basically pull off on many Forest Service roads (like Road 218 or 326) and set up camp for free. Just don't be that person who leaves trash. Pack it out. Seriously.
The 1910 Fire and the "Big Burn" Legacy
You can't understand this forest without understanding Ed Pulaski. He was a forest ranger during the 1910 fire, which scorched about 3 million acres across Idaho and Montana. In the St. Joe region, the fire was a monster. Pulaski saved his crew by forcing them into an abandoned mine shaft at gunpoint because they were panicked and wanted to run into the flames.
That history is baked into the soil. The composition of the forest changed because of that fire. The Western White Pine—which used to be the king of this forest—was largely replaced by Douglas fir and Western larch. In the autumn, the larches turn a bright, neon yellow before dropping their needles. It looks like the forest is on fire again, but in a beautiful, non-destructive way.
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High-Elevation Hiking and the Hiawatha
If you hate uphill climbs but love views, the Route of the Hiawatha is technically on the edge of the St. Joe and the Lolo National Forests. It’s a rail-to-trail mountain bike path. You ride through the St. Paul Pass Tunnel—it’s 1.6 miles long and pitch black. It’s cold in there. Like, 40 degrees Fahrenheit cold, even in July.
For the hikers who actually want to sweat, the Stevens Peak trail is a monster but worth it. You get views of Upper and Lower Stevens Lakes. The water is alpine-blue, the kind of blue that doesn't look real in photos. Be warned: the mosquitoes at the lakes in July are basically small birds. Bring the heavy-duty DEET.
Common Misconceptions About the "Joe"
People think it's always accessible. It’s not.
Snow stays deep in the high country well into June, sometimes July. I’ve seen people try to take a rental sedan up toward Gold Pass in May and get stuck in a drift that didn't melt for another month. Also, GPS is a liar out here. Download offline maps. If you rely on Google Maps to get you through the backroads of the St. Joe National Forest, you will end up at a closed logging gate 40 miles from cell service.
Another thing? Bears. This is Grizzly country. Not just Black Bears. While Grizzlies are more common further north in the Selkirks, they move through the St. Joe too. Bear spray isn't an "if you feel like it" item; it’s a requirement.
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What to Actually Bring
- A real map: The Forest Service sells the "Idaho Panhandle National Forests" plastic-coated maps. Buy one at the Avery Store.
- Water Filtration: The river looks clean, but Giardia is a real thing. Don't risk it.
- A Full Tank: There is NO gas once you leave St. Maries or Avery. If you're at half a tank and heading deep into the forest, you're playing a dangerous game.
The Town of Avery
Avery is the "heart" of the forest, but don't expect a shopping mall. It’s a tiny unincorporated community that used to be a major division point for the Chicago, Milwaukee, St. Paul and Pacific Railroad. Today, it’s basically a post office, a small store, and a place to grab a burger. It’s the last outpost of civilization before you hit the truly wild sections of the upper river.
Logistics and Permits
You don't need a permit to enter the St. Joe National Forest, which is the beauty of it. Unlike the Enchantments in Washington or parts of Glacier National Park, you don't have to win a lottery to sleep under the stars here.
However, if you're fishing, you absolutely need an Idaho fishing license. The Idaho Department of Fish and Game (IDFG) doesn't play around. They will check you, especially on the Wild and Scenic stretches. Also, be aware of the "Barbless Hook" rules in certain sections to protect those cutthroat populations.
Seasonal Planning
- Spring: Muddy. Very muddy. The "St. Joe River Road" (Forest Highway 50) is usually clear, but side roads are treacherous.
- Summer: Peak season. Late July and August are perfect for high-country hiking.
- Fall: The best time. No bugs, fewer people, and the huckleberry picking is insane.
- Winter: Snowmobile heaven. The forest has hundreds of miles of groomed trails, but you better know how to handle a sled in deep powder.
Why It Matters
We’re losing wild places fast. The St. Joe National Forest feels like one of the last spots where you can actually get lost—intentionally. It hasn't been "sanitized" for tourists yet. There are no paved paths to the waterfalls. There are no interpretive signs every ten feet telling you what kind of rock you’re looking at. It’s just you, the cedars, and the river.
If you’re looking for a curated nature experience with a latte at the trailhead, go to Banff. If you want to smell cedar smoke and wonder if that sound in the brush was a squirrel or a mountain lion, come here.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit:
- Download the Avenza Maps app and buy the official Forest Service motor vehicle use maps before you lose service.
- Check the USGS water gauges for the St. Joe River at Calder or Red Ives if you plan on fishing or floating; runoff can make the water dangerous until late June.
- Stop at the Avery Store to ask about current road conditions—the locals know which bridges are washed out better than any website.
- Secure your food. This is "Hard Sided" camping territory in many spots due to bear activity. Use the bear boxes if provided or a certified bear-resistant container.
- Leave a trip plan with someone back in St. Maries or at home. There is zero cell coverage for about 90% of the forest.