Walk out of the Broadway entrance of St James's Park tube station and look up. Most people don’t. They’re usually too busy dodging tourists or trying to find the quickest route to the Home Office. But if you actually stop for a second, you’ll see these massive, slightly weather-worn sculptures carved directly into the stone. These aren't your typical Victorian cherubs. They’re bold, slightly aggressive Art Deco figures like Night and Day by Jacob Epstein, which, honestly, caused a massive scandal when they were first unveiled in 1929. People actually tried to have them removed because they were considered "indecent."
That’s basically the vibe of St James's Park tube. It’s a place that looks functional—even a bit corporate—but it’s actually sitting on layers of architectural rebellion and secret wartime history.
The Station That Built an Empire (Literally)
St James's Park tube station isn't just a stop on the District and Circle lines. It’s the spiritual and physical home of London Transport. The station is integrated into 55 Broadway, which served as the headquarters for the Underground Electric Railways Company of London (UERL) and later London Transport for nearly 90 years.
Charles Holden was the architect behind it. He’s the guy who basically decided what "London" looks like. Before Holden, tube stations were often just messy additions to the streetscape. Holden turned 55 Broadway into a "cathedral of modernity." When it opened, it was the tallest office building in London. That sounds ridiculous now when you look at the Shard or the Gherkin, but back then, it was a skyscraper.
The building is shaped like a cross. This wasn't for religious reasons, though. Holden was obsessed with natural light. By using a cruciform design, he ensured that every single office in the building had a window. In the 1920s, that was a revolution in workplace wellness, even if they didn't call it that yet.
Why the Location Is a Bit Confusing
Here is something that trips up tourists every single day: St James's Park tube station is not actually in St James's Park. It’s close. You can walk there in about two minutes. But if you’re expecting to emerge from the escalator directly onto a green lawn with pelicans, you’re going to be disappointed. You’ll emerge onto Broadway or Palmer Street, surrounded by high-security government buildings and very expensive coffee shops.
Secret Tunnels and the Ghost of the Blitz
During World War II, the station and the building above it weren't just transit hubs. They were vital to the war effort. Because 55 Broadway was built with a steel frame and reinforced concrete, it was one of the safest spots in London.
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The basement was converted into a massive bomb shelter and a secondary control center for the Underground. There are stories—real ones, documented by the London Transport Museum—of staff sleeping in the corridors during the height of the Blitz to keep the trains running.
But there’s more.
Because of its proximity to Whitehall, there have always been rumors about secret tunnels connecting St James's Park tube to the Treasury or even Down Street (the famous "secret" station used by Churchill). While many of these "secret passage" stories are urban legends, it is a fact that the building's deep foundations and strategic location made it a nerve center for government communication. You’re walking over history that is still partially redacted.
The Design Details Most People Miss
You’ve got to look at the walls. No, seriously.
St James's Park tube is a Grade I listed building. That is the highest level of protection a building can get in the UK. It puts this subway station in the same league as Buckingham Palace and York Minster.
The station uses Portland stone. It’s the same stuff they used for St. Paul’s Cathedral. Holden wanted the tube to feel permanent and prestigious. If you look at the signage, you’ll see the "Johnston" typeface. Frank Pick, the visionary behind London Underground’s branding, commissioned Edward Johnston to create a font that was exceptionally readable. It debuted here and at other Holden stations, and it’s essentially the DNA of London’s visual identity.
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Then there are the "Winds."
Aside from Epstein's Night and Day, there are eight other reliefs high up on the facades representing the winds. They were carved by some of the biggest names in British sculpture, including Henry Moore and Eric Gill. Most commuters walk past millions of pounds worth of fine art every morning without ever glancing up from their iPhones. It’s kind of a tragedy, actually.
Getting Around: The Practical Stuff
Okay, let’s get into the weeds of how to actually use this place.
St James's Park is served by the District and Circle lines. It sits between Victoria and Westminster. This makes it a tactical masterpiece for sightseeing. If Victoria is too crowded (which it always is), walking ten minutes to St James's Park can save your sanity.
- Platform Layout: The station is relatively shallow compared to the deep-level lines like the Northern or Jubilee. You aren't descending into the bowels of the earth here.
- The "Secret" Exit: There are multiple entrances. The one on Palmer Street is often quieter if you’re trying to reach the cafes or the small shopping stretch.
- Accessibility: This is the big downside. Because it’s a historic, Grade I listed structure, putting in lifts is a nightmare. As of now, it is not a step-free station. If you have a heavy suitcase or a stroller, you are going to be facing some stairs.
The Weird Connection to "The Village"
If you’re a fan of cult TV, St James's Park tube has a claim to fame. It appeared in the opening sequences of The Prisoner (the 1967 version). Patrick McGoohan’s character resigns from his secret agent job and drives his Lotus Seven right past the station. The area feels like a spy movie because, frankly, it is. You’re a stone's throw from MI6’s old headquarters and the current Home Office. The "men in grey suits" vibe is very real here.
Is St James's Park Tube Haunted?
Every old London station has a ghost story. St James's Park is no different.
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Staff and late-night commuters have long reported a "whistling" sound in the tunnels that doesn't match the wind patterns. Some claim to have seen a figure in a 1920s-style boiler suit wandering the platforms after the last train has departed. Is it a former maintenance worker? Or just the sound of an old city settling into its bones? Most likely it's the peculiar acoustics of Holden's ventilation shafts, but it’s a fun thought when you’re standing on a deserted platform at 11:30 PM.
How to Make the Most of Your Visit
If you’re a fan of architecture or history, don’t just use the station to get from A to B. Treat it like a museum.
- Start at the Broadway entrance. Look up at Epstein’s Day. It’s the one with the father holding a child. It was heavily censored back in the day—the sculptor actually had to "prune" parts of the statue to appease the public.
- Check the tiling. The green and cream color scheme inside is classic Holden. It’s meant to be calming.
- Walk to the Park. Since you're there, actually go to St James's Park. Exit the station, head north on Queen Anne's Gate, and you'll hit the park right near the Blue Bridge. The view of Buckingham Palace from that bridge is the best in the city, and it's free.
The Future of 55 Broadway
For decades, this building was the heart of the tube. However, in recent years, Transport for London (TfL) moved out to more modern offices in Stratford. The building has been sold and is being converted into a luxury hotel.
There was a lot of worry that the "soul" of the station would be lost. But because of the Grade I listing, the developers can’t touch the exterior art or the core structural elements. The station itself will remain a working part of the network. It’s a weird transition—from a temple of public transport to a playground for the wealthy—but it ensures the building stays standing.
St James's Park tube station is a reminder that London doesn't just build things; it layers them. It’s a transit stop, a scandal-ridden art gallery, a wartime bunker, and a masterpiece of corporate branding all rolled into one. Next time you’re there, put your phone in your pocket. Look at the Portland stone. Listen for the whistling.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit
- Avoid Peak Hours: If you want to actually see the architecture, avoid 8:00 AM to 9:30 AM. It’s a major commuter hub for civil servants, and you will get trampled.
- Photography Tip: The best angle for 55 Broadway is from the corner of Tothill Street. You can get the full height of the building and the Epstein sculptures in one shot.
- Nearby Gems: Don't miss Queen Anne’s Gate just around the corner. It’s one of the best-preserved 18th-century streets in London and feels like stepping back 300 years.
- Check the Status: The District and Circle lines are notorious for weekend engineering works. Always check the TfL Go app before assuming the station is open on a Saturday.
- Walk, Don't Ride: If you're going to Westminster, don't bother getting on the train. It’s a five-minute walk above ground and much more scenic.