The 91st Academy Awards were supposed to be about the movies, but honestly, everyone was looking at Spike Lee's feet. And his neck. And that suit. It was 2019, and the director of BlacKkKlansman didn't just walk the red carpet; he owned it in a custom Ozwald Boateng ensemble that was a loud, violet scream of a tribute to his late friend, Prince.
Most people see a purple suit and think "fashion choice." With Spike, it's never just fashion. It's a manifesto.
The Architect of the Look: Ozwald Boateng
Spike didn't just pick this off a rack at a boutique in Soho. He went to the master of British tailoring, Ozwald Boateng. Boateng, the first Black creative director at a major French fashion house (Givenchy), has a history of dressing icons. But this was different. The suit was a specific shade—Prince’s shade.
You've probably seen the photos. It wasn't just purple; it was electric.
The cut was deliberate. Spike actually told Boateng to make the pants "high-waters." Why? Because he needed to show off the shoes. You can’t wear custom gold Jordans and hide them under a hemline. That would be a sin. Spike basically told the New York Times that he wanted to be "clean as the board of health" and "sharp as a razor." He wasn't exaggerating.
The suit featured:
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- A vibrant purple wool-mohair blend.
- A matching purple captain’s hat.
- Tinted purple glasses (because of course).
- A blue button-down shirt paired with a magenta tie.
More Than Fabric: The Jewelry and the "Why"
If the suit was the canvas, the jewelry was the heart. Hanging around Spike’s neck was a custom-made gold, diamond, and opal necklace in the shape of Prince’s trademark "Love Symbol." It was designed by Amedeo Scognamiglio.
Prince and Spike weren't just industry peers. They were brothers. When Spike was finishing BlacKkKlansman, he needed a song for the end credits. He didn't just find a track; he used a rare, unreleased 1980s recording of Prince singing the spiritual "Mary Don’t You Weep." Prince had died in 2016, and this outfit was Spike’s way of bringing his friend to the finish line of his first competitive Oscar win.
Then there were the rings.
On his left and right knuckles, Spike wore the massive "LOVE" and "HATE" brass-knuckle style rings. This wasn't a Prince tribute—it was a Spike Lee tribute. They were the exact props from his 1989 masterpiece Do the Right Thing, famously worn by the character Radio Raheem. In the film, Raheem gives a speech about the eternal struggle between love and hate. By wearing them in 2019, Spike was signaling that 30 years later, the message hadn't changed.
The 18-Karat Gold Jordans
We have to talk about the shoes. Michael Jordan himself commissioned Tinker Hatfield—the legendary designer behind most of the Jordan line—to create a one-of-a-kind pair of Air Jordan 3s for Spike.
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They weren't just gold-colored. They were metallic gold. The back of the shoes featured the logos of Spike’s production company, 40 Acres and a Mule Filmworks.
Honestly, it’s the ultimate power move. Most men at the Oscars are struggling to keep their patent leather oxfords from scuffing. Spike was literally walking on gold. He told reporters on the carpet that he "won the Oscar on the red carpet" before the ceremony even started. He wasn't wrong.
The Night’s Real Drama
The suit saw a lot of action that night. Spike finally won his first competitive Oscar for Best Adapted Screenplay. He didn't just walk to the stage; he jumped into Samuel L. Jackson’s arms. It was the highlight of the telecast.
But then things got weird.
When Green Book was announced as the winner for Best Picture, Spike was visibly livid. He tried to walk out of the Dolby Theatre. He was stopped at the doors and eventually returned to his seat, but he didn't hide his disgust. Later, while holding a glass of champagne, he famously told the press, "The ref made a bad call."
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The purple suit became the backdrop for one of the most honest reactions in Oscar history. He noted the irony: the last time he felt this "snake-bit" was in 1990 when Do the Right Thing wasn't even nominated for Best Picture, and Driving Miss Daisy (another movie about a Black person being driven by a white person) won.
How to Channel the Spike Lee Energy
You probably aren't going to get Michael Jordan to call Tinker Hatfield for you. And Ozwald Boateng’s custom work isn't cheap. But there are takeaways from the Spike Lee Prince suit Oscars moment that actually apply to real life.
First, monochrome works. If you’re going to do a color, do the whole color. The hat, the glasses, the suit—it creates a silhouette that is impossible to ignore.
Second, details are everything. The necklace and the rings weren't just accessories; they were stories. If you’re dressing for a big moment, wear something that means something to you. It gives you a kind of "armor" that a standard tux just can't provide.
Third, know your history. Spike wasn't just wearing clothes; he was wearing his career and his friendships.
Actionable Insights for Your Next Big Event
- Custom Tailoring: If you want to show off your footwear, tell your tailor you want a "no-break" or "high-water" hem. It prevents the fabric from bunching and puts the focus on the shoes.
- Tribute Pieces: Incorporating a small item that honors a mentor or a friend can boost your confidence during high-pressure situations.
- The "Pop" Rule: If your suit is loud (like royal purple), keep the secondary colors in the same family or use gold for metallic accents. Avoid clashing with too many patterns.
- Comfort is King: Spike wore Jordans because he’s Spike, but also because he was 61 years old and knew he’d be on his feet all night. Don't sacrifice your ability to move for a "look."
Spike Lee showed up to the Oscars to win, and he did it on his own terms. Whether you loved the movie or hated the result, you can't deny that the purple suit was a masterclass in how to use the red carpet as a megaphone for your identity.