If you walk into the Kerrytown Market & Shops on a Tuesday morning, the first thing that hits you isn't the smell of fancy coffee or the sight of artisanal toys. It’s the sound. Specifically, the rhythmic thwack-thwack-thwack of a heavy cleaver meeting a wooden block at Sparrow Market.
Most people in town just call it Sparrow’s. It’s been a fixture since 1984, which, in "Ann Arbor years," makes it basically prehistoric. But honestly? It’s probably the most relevant place to buy food in the city right now.
You’ve got your big-box stores and your hyper-curated, expensive boutiques. Then you’ve got Sparrow. It’s a weird, beautiful hybrid. It’s a high-end butcher shop, a local produce stand, and a global pantry all crammed into a space that feels like it’s vibrating with energy.
The Changing of the Guard (And Why It Matters)
For decades, Bob Sparrow was the face of the place. He started it at just 22 years old. Think about that—opening a master-level butchery before you’re even old enough to rent a car without a surcharge.
But things changed recently. In 2020, Bob handed the keys to his son, Jordan. And then, in a move that felt very "Ann Arbor" in its loyalty, Jordan passed the torch on May 1, 2025, to Raymond Campise. Ray had been the General Manager for years. He started there after an "overlooked resume" almost kept him out the door. Now, alongside his fiancée Cristina Pappas—who is a powerhouse butcher herself—Ray is the one keeping the legacy alive.
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It’s rare. Usually, these neighborhood spots get bought out by a corporation and lose their soul. Not here. The transition was a handshake deal, a family affair even if they aren't all related by blood.
That Famous Meat Counter
Let’s talk about the meat because, frankly, that’s why people drive from Ypsilanti and Dexter and even Detroit.
Sparrow Market isn't just "selling beef." They are curators of protein. You want a $40-a-pound Japanese A5 Wagyu steak that looks like a marble slab? They have it. You want a basic, high-quality pound of ground chuck for a Tuesday night taco bar? They’ve got that, too.
They break down full pigs. Not many places do that anymore. You can find:
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- Heritage Berkshire Pork: The kind that actually tastes like something.
- Exotic Game: Capons, pheasant, and duck aren't just for holiday orders.
- The Burger Blends: They do a "Black and Blue" Wagyu burger with blackened seasoning and blue cheese that is, quite frankly, a religious experience.
- Hand-Rolled Meatballs: They use a secret family recipe with Michigan pork and Idaho beef.
Butchery here is an art. It's not just "cutting stuff up." It's about knowing where the animal came from. They source locally whenever they can, especially their lamb and certain pork cuts.
It's Not Just a Butcher Shop Anymore
Back in 2004, Bob took over the produce side of the business. It was a smart move. Now, it’s a one-stop shop for anyone living in the Old Fourth Ward or downtown who doesn't want to deal with the chaos of a massive supermarket parking lot.
The produce isn't "perfect" in that waxed, shiny, supermarket way. It’s real. It’s delivered six days a week. In the summer, it’s bursting with Michigan peaches and corn; in the winter, it’s hearty root vegetables and greens.
Then there’s the "hidden" stuff.
The cheese section is low-key one of the best in the county. We’re talking over 80 varieties, with a huge chunk of those being imported directly from Europe. They have the stinky stuff, the hard-as-a-rock aged stuff, and everything in between.
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Local Staples You’ll Find on the Shelves:
- Carosello Handmade Pasta: Fresh, local, and better than anything in a box.
- The Brinery: Those fermented pickles and krauts that Ann Arborites obsess over.
- Blank Slate Creamery: Yes, you can grab a pint of the city’s favorite ice cream here without the mile-long line at their actual shop.
The Reality of Shopping at Sparrow Market
Look, I’m going to be real with you. It’s not the cheapest place in town. If you’re looking for bottom-dollar prices, you’ll head to a warehouse club. But people get the "expensive" tag wrong.
Ray and the team are big on the idea that quality doesn't always mean "elite." You can go in there with $10 and get a great meal’s worth of ingredients. You just have to know what you’re looking for.
One thing to know before you go: It’s busy. Especially on Saturdays when the Farmers Market is happening right outside. The energy is high, the butchers are moving fast, and there might be a line. But that’s part of the charm. It’s a community hub. You’ll see professors, students, local chefs like the crew from Vinology, and retirees all jockeying for the best ribeye.
Practical Steps for Your Visit
If you’re planning to check out Sparrow Market, don’t just wing it.
- Ask the Butchers: Seriously. Don’t be intimidated. If you don’t know how to cook a hanger steak or a bavette, ask Ray or Cristina. They live for this stuff. They’ll tell you exactly how many minutes per side and what temperature to aim for.
- Check the Pre-made Meals: Their resident chef makes things like beef enchiladas and lamb shanks. If you’re tired and don’t want to cook, these are a lifesaver.
- Bring a Bag: They’re big on sustainability. Plus, navigating Kerrytown with three plastic bags of heavy meat and produce is a recipe for a spill.
- Order Online if You’re Far Away: In 2024, they launched a mail-order butcher shop. You can actually get their Prime beef shipped to all 50 states via sparrowmeats.com.
Sparrow Market is a survivor. It survived the 80s, the 2008 crash, and the pandemic. It’s still here because it does one thing really well: it treats food like it matters. Whether you're a lifelong Ann Arborite or just passing through, it’s a piece of the city’s heart that you can actually taste.
Next Step: Head to the Kerrytown Market & Shops at 407 N. 5th Ave. Grab a pound of their house-made chorizo and a loaf of local bread. Your dinner plans are officially sorted.