You’re sitting in a swivel chair, a coffee in one hand and a blurry view of the Mojave Desert rushing past the glass. It’s quiet. Not "library quiet," but that specific, rhythmic hum of a Superliner barreling through the American West at 70 miles per hour. This is the Southwest Chief Amtrak train, and honestly, it’s a bit of a miracle it still exists.
Most people think of train travel as a commute or a novelty. They see the 43-hour runtime from Chicago to Los Angeles and think, "Why wouldn't I just fly for four hours?" They aren't totally wrong. If you need to be in LA for a Tuesday morning meeting, the train is a terrible idea. But if you actually want to see the geography of the United States—the parts the interstate system bypassed decades ago—there is literally no other way to do it.
The route follows the old Santa Fe Railway. It’s legendary. We’re talking about the path of the Super Chief, the "Train of the Stars" that used to carry Hollywood royalty. Today, it’s less about glitz and more about the raw, unfiltered scale of the New Mexico High Desert and the tight squeezes through the Raton Pass.
The Reality of the Route: More Than Just "Flyover Country"
The Southwest Chief Amtrak train doesn't just connect two big cities; it breathes life into towns like La Junta, Colorado, and Gallup, New Mexico. If you look at a map, the line dips south from Chicago through Illinois, Missouri, and Kansas before hitting the mountains.
Raton Pass is the highlight for many. It’s the highest point on the entire Amtrak system at 7,588 feet. The train lugs itself up the grade, often slowing down significantly, which gives you plenty of time to spot elk or just marvel at the sheer drop-offs. You won't see this from I-40. You definitely won't see it from 30,000 feet.
📖 Related: Philly to DC Amtrak: What Most People Get Wrong About the Northeast Corridor
Why the "Chief" is different from the California Zephyr
People always compare the Chief to the Zephyr. The Zephyr is famous for the Rockies and the Sierras. It’s flashy. The Southwest Chief is moodier. It’s about the red rocks of the Coconino Plateau and the vast, empty stretches of the Navajo Nation. It feels older. Lonelier, in a good way.
Sleeping and Eating: The Superliner Experience
Let's talk logistics. You have two main choices: Coach or Sleeper.
Coach seats on the Southwest Chief Amtrak train are huge. Seriously. They have more legroom than a first-class domestic flight. You can pitch the seat back, flip up the leg rest, and actually sleep. Is it a bed? No. But for the budget traveler, it’s a heck of a lot better than a Greyhound bus.
Then there are the Sleepers.
👉 See also: Omaha to Las Vegas: How to Pull Off the Trip Without Overpaying or Losing Your Mind
- Roomettes: Two chairs that face each other and turn into a bunk bed. It’s tight. If you’re traveling with a stranger, you’re going to be very close friends by the end of the trip.
- Bedrooms: These have a private sink and a "wet bath" (a shower/toilet combo). It’s luxury on rails, but it’ll cost you.
Food is another sticking point. Amtrak recently brought back "Traditional Dining" for sleeper car passengers on this route. This is a big deal. You get a real menu with things like the Amtrak Signature Steak or Atlantic Salmon. If you’re in Coach, you’re heading to the Cafe Car for a microwaved burger or a hot dog. It’s edible, but it’s not exactly fine dining. Honestly, bring snacks. Even if you're in a sleeper, bring your own favorite jerky or a bottle of wine. It makes the evenings in the Sightseer Lounge much better.
The "Time Loss" Myth
"It takes two days!" Yeah, it does. But here’s the thing: those two days are a forced digital detox. While the Southwest Chief Amtrak train technically has Wi-Fi on some stretches, it’s notoriously spotty. In the middle of the desert? Forget about it.
You’ll see people staring out the window for hours. They aren't bored. They're processing. There’s something about the steady click-clack that makes you think differently. You’ll meet people you’d never talk to otherwise—retired teachers, Amish families traveling to visit relatives, European tourists who are more excited about Kansas than most Americans.
Practical Survival Tips for the 43-Hour Haul
If you're actually going to book this, don't go in blind. The train is a closed ecosystem.
✨ Don't miss: North Shore Shrimp Trucks: Why Some Are Worth the Hour Drive and Others Aren't
- The Sightseer Lounge is your living room. It has floor-to-ceiling windows. Get there early in the morning, especially through New Mexico. The seats face outward, and the view is the best "television" you'll ever watch.
- Temperature control is a suggestion. One car might be an oven, the next a freezer. Wear layers. A hoodie is mandatory.
- Download everything. Don't rely on the cloud. Your Spotify playlists, your Kindle books, your movies—get them on your device before you leave Union Station.
- The "Station Smoke" breaks. In places like Albuquerque, the train stops for about 45 minutes. Get off. Walk. Stretch. Buy a burrito from the vendors on the platform. It’s the best food you’ll have all trip.
The Future of the Southwest Chief
There’s always talk about rerouting or cutting the Chief. Maintenance on the tracks through Kansas and Colorado is expensive. But for now, the route remains a vital link. It’s a piece of infrastructure that functions as a moving community.
When you finally pull into Los Angeles Union Station—a stunning Art Deco masterpiece—you’ll feel a weird sense of accomplishment. You didn't just travel; you crossed a continent. You saw the land change from the cornfields of the Midwest to the industrial sprawl of San Bernardino.
Actionable Steps for Your Journey
- Check the "BidUp" Program: If you book a Coach ticket, Amtrak often sends an email a few days before departure allowing you to "bid" on an unsold Roomette or Bedroom. You can sometimes snag a sleeper for half the usual price.
- Book the Right Side: When heading Westbound (Train 3), try to sit on the right side of the train for the best views of the mountains as you enter Colorado.
- Track Your Train: Use the Amtrak Track Your Train map. Delays happen. Freight trains have priority over passenger trains in the US, so 1-2 hour delays aren't uncommon. Check the status before you head to the station.
- Pack a Multi-Plug: Outlets in the older Superliner cars are limited. A small power strip or a multi-port USB charger will make you the hero of the car.
The Southwest Chief Amtrak train isn't just a way to get from A to B. It’s a slow-motion look at the American soul. It’s messy, it’s sometimes late, and the coffee is questionable—but you’ll remember it long after you’ve forgotten every flight you’ve ever taken.