Sloppy Joe's Key West: What Most People Get Wrong About Hemingway's Favorite Hangout

Sloppy Joe's Key West: What Most People Get Wrong About Hemingway's Favorite Hangout

You can smell it before you see it. It’s that thick, salty mix of humidity, spilled beer, and frying onions that defines Duval Street. If you’ve spent more than ten minutes in Key West, someone has already pointed you toward Sloppy Joe's Key West. It is the island's North Star.

But here is the thing: half the people drinking there think they’re standing in the exact spot where Ernest Hemingway got into fistfights. They aren't. Not exactly.

Key West history is slippery. It's built on wrecking, rum-running, and tall tales told by people who have had one too many Papa Dobles. To understand why this bar is the most famous dive in the world, you have to look past the T-shirts and the live music. You have to look at a guy named Joe Russell and a lease that got canceled in the middle of the night.

The Midnight Move and the $4 Urinal

Most bars have a grand opening. Sloppy Joe’s had a "grand relocation" that was basically a heist.

Back in 1937, the bar was actually located around the corner at 428 Greene Street. Joe Russell, the original owner and a notorious rum-runner during Prohibition, was a close friend of Ernest Hemingway. In fact, Russell was Hemingway's boat captain and the primary inspiration for the character Freddy in To Have and Have Not. When the landlord at the Greene Street location decided to raise the rent by a whopping $3 a week, Joe wasn't having it.

He didn't file a lawsuit. He didn't negotiate.

Instead, at the stroke of midnight on May 5, 1937, Joe and his regulars—Hemingway included—literally picked up the entire bar. They moved the booze, the tables, and the memorabilia across the street to the current location at 201 Duval Street. It was a chaotic, drunken parade. Hemingway reportedly walked away with the urinal from the old location, famously arguing that he had "poured enough money into it" to own it. That urinal eventually ended up as a water fountain in the garden of Hemingway's house on Whitehead Street, where it still sits today.

Basically, if you’re looking for the "authentic" Hemingway floorboards, you’re actually looking for a spot that is now Capt. Tony’s Saloon. But the spirit—and the name—went to Duval.

Why the Name Isn't About the Sandwich

People walk in and order a Sloppy Joe sandwich expecting a culinary revelation. Honestly? It’s a good sandwich, but the name didn't come from the kitchen. It came from the floor.

Joe Russell’s original place was called the Blind Pig, then the Silver Slipper. It was Hemingway who suggested the name "Sloppy Joe's." He took the inspiration from a bar in Havana owned by Jose "Joe" Garcia Rio. That Havana bar was notoriously messy because the ice used to chill the seafood would melt across the floor, making everything literally sloppy.

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Russell’s place in Key West wasn't much cleaner.

The floors were usually covered in sawdust to soak up the mess. It was a place for fishermen, smugglers, and writers who didn't want to be found. It wasn't "lifestyle." It was a refuge. Today, it’s a lot shinier, but the high ceilings and the massive fans still give you that feeling of 1930s tropical grit. If you look up at the walls, you’re seeing the history of Key West’s transition from a forgotten outpost to a tourist mecca.

The Hemingway Look-Alike Society

Every July, the bar turns into a surreal sea of white beards and khaki vests. The Hemingway Look-Alike Contest is probably the most famous event at Sloppy Joe's Key West.

It’s intense. These guys don't just throw on a sweater; they study the man's life. They compete for the "Papa" title in a way that feels like a cross between a beauty pageant and a frat party. The contest started in 1981 and has grown into a multi-day festival that draws thousands.

What’s interesting is the "Hemingway family" of winners. They do charity work. They raise money for scholarships. It’s a strange, beautiful subculture that keeps the bar’s legacy alive even as the world around it changes.

A Quick Reality Check on the Drinks

If you want to drink like Hemingway, don't order a sweet strawberry daiquiri. He famously hated sugar in his drinks because he was a diabetic (and also just a tough guy).

  • The Papa Doble: This is what you want. It’s a grapefruit-heavy, maraschino-infused daiquiri with double the rum and no sugar. It’s tart. It’s strong. It’ll make your ears ring.
  • The Sloppy Rita: This is for the modern Duval crawl. It’s a house favorite, but Hemingway wouldn't have touched it.
  • The Beer: Joe Russell used to sell 15-cent shots of whiskey and 10-cent beers. Prices have gone up, obviously, but the beer is still cold, which is all that matters in 90-degree heat.

More Than Just a Tourist Trap?

There is a segment of the local Key West population that avoids Duval Street like the plague. They call it "The Disney-fication of the Keys." And sure, Sloppy Joe's sells a mountain of merchandise. You can buy a Sloppy Joe's onesie for your baby. You can buy a branded dog leash.

But somehow, the bar manages to stay "cool."

Maybe it’s the live music. The stage at Sloppy Joe's has hosted some incredible talent over the decades. It’s a "bucket list" gig for many Florida musicians. When the band is firing on all cylinders and the doors are wide open to the street, and the breeze is coming off the Gulf of Mexico, it’s hard not to feel the magic.

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It’s one of the few places where a billionaire in a yacht-club blazer can sit next to a guy who hasn't washed his fishing boat in three years, and they’ll both be treated exactly the same. That’s the Joe Russell legacy. He didn't care who you were as long as you had a story and could pay for your drink.

The Secret Museum in the Back

Most people grab their drink and head for the dance floor. Don't do that.

Take a minute to walk around the perimeter. There are glass cases filled with Hemingway memorabilia, including original photographs and letters. It’s essentially a free museum. You can see photos of Hemingway with his "Mob" (his group of Key West friends) and get a sense of what the island looked like before the high-speed ferries and cruise ships arrived.

One of the most prized possessions is the "Ernest Hemingway's Key West" collection. It details his time living on the island from 1928 to 1939. This was arguably his most productive period. He finished A Farewell to Arms here. He wrote Death in the Afternoon and The Snows of Kilimanjaro.

The bar was his office away from the office. He would write in the mornings to beat the heat, then head to the bar in the afternoon to "socialize" (read: drink heavily) and gather material. If you’re a writer, or even just someone who likes a good story, there’s a heavy weight to the air in there.

Surviving the Duval Crawl

Visiting Sloppy Joe's Key West is an endurance sport. The bar is open 365 days a year. From 9:00 AM until 4:00 AM, the doors are open. Yes, people are drinking at nine in the morning. No, nobody is judging them.

If you’re planning a visit, here’s the reality of how to do it right:

  1. Timing is Everything: If you want a seat at the bar, go before 1:00 PM. By 4:00 PM, it’s standing room only. By 10:00 PM, it’s a mosh pit of tourists dancing to "Brown Eyed Girl."
  2. The Food: Get the Sloppy Joe. It’s messy, it’s beefy, and it provides a necessary "base" for the rum you’re about to consume. The conch fritters are also surprisingly decent for a place that moves that much volume.
  3. The Stage: Pay attention to the schedule. Some of the afternoon solo acts are better than the nighttime party bands.
  4. The Gift Shop: It’s actually in a separate side area. If you want the shirt, get it early so you don't have to carry it around while you're bar-hopping.

What Most People Get Wrong

The biggest misconception is that Sloppy Joe's is a "fake" history. People hear about the move from Greene Street and think the whole thing is a marketing gimmick.

It's not.

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The move was real. The friendship between Joe Russell and Hemingway was real. Russell was the first person to see many of Hemingway's manuscripts. He was the guy who took Hemingway out to the Gulf Stream to catch giant marlin. When Hemingway left Key West for Cuba, he left a huge amount of his personal belongings in a back room at Sloppy Joe's.

Years later, after Hemingway died, his widow Mary went through those boxes. They found manuscripts, letters, and even old fishing logs. That "stuff" became the basis for a lot of the posthumous Hemingway works we have today.

So, while the physical building might be a "second" location, the DNA of the place is as authentic as it gets. It is the repository of a very specific era of American literature and Caribbean culture.

How to Experience the "Real" Sloppy Joe's

To truly "get" the bar, you have to look past the neon.

Sit at the end of the bar near the Greene Street entrance. Order a beer. Don't look at your phone. Look at the photos of the 1930s wreckers and the black-and-white shots of the "Sloppy Joe’s Mob." Imagine the island without the air conditioning. Imagine the humidity being so thick you could feel it in your lungs.

That’s when you realize Sloppy Joe's wasn't built to be a tourist attraction. It was built to be a cool place in a hot town. It was a place where people who didn't fit in anywhere else—the "Conchs," the writers, the rum-runners—could find a bit of shade.

Practical Steps for Your Visit

  • Check the Webcam: Sloppy Joe's has a famous "Duval Street" webcam. Check it before you go to see how crowded it is.
  • Park Away from Duval: Don't even try to park near the bar. Use the park-and-ride or just walk. Key West is tiny; you can walk from one side to the other in 30 minutes.
  • Bring Cash: While they take cards, the bartenders move fast. Having cash for drinks will get you served much quicker when the crowd is five-deep.
  • Respect the "Papa" Traditions: if you happen to be there during the Look-Alike contest, remember that these guys take it seriously. It's a huge piece of the bar's identity.

The bar survived the Great Depression, World War II, dozens of hurricanes, and the massive shift in Key West’s economy. It’s still there because it represents something fundamental about the Florida Keys: a stubborn refusal to be anything other than exactly what it is.

Whether you’re there for the Hemingway history or just a very cold drink, you’re part of a timeline that stretches back to a midnight move in 1937. Take a sip, listen to the music, and enjoy the chaos. That’s the only way to do Sloppy Joe's justice.


Actionable Insights for Travelers

If you want to maximize your experience at Sloppy Joe's Key West, start your day at the Hemingway Home and Museum on Whitehead Street to see where the "Papa" legend lived. From there, walk the few blocks to the bar to see where he actually spent his time. To avoid the heaviest crowds, plan your visit for a Tuesday or Wednesday; weekends on Duval Street can be overwhelming for those looking for a bit of historical reflection. If you're a fan of live music, check the bar's online calendar for "The Reach," a popular local band that often plays high-energy sets that define the Key West sound. Finally, always remember to hydrate; the Key West sun combined with Sloppy Joe's rum is a potent mix that has humbled many a visitor.