You’re on the North Ferry. The salt air hits your face, and you’re looking out at the Peconic, wondering if you brought enough balls for the day. If you’re heading to play a Shelter Island golf course, you probably already know this isn’t your typical Hamptons outing. It’s quieter. A bit more rugged. Honestly, it feels like stepping back about fifty years in the best way possible.
Shelter Island is tucked between the North and South Forks of Long Island, accessible only by boat. This geographic isolation has preserved a specific kind of golf culture that you just don't find at the manicured, corporate-feeling clubs in Westchester or even further south in Southampton. Here, the grass is real. The hills are steep. And the wind? It’s a nightmare you’ll learn to love.
Most people get confused when they start looking for where to tee off. They hear "Shelter Island golf" and assume there's just one big resort. Nope. You've basically got two very different worlds: the private, prestigious Gardiner’s Bay Country Club and the quirky, public, and legendary Shelter Island Country Club—better known by everyone who lives here as "Goat Hill."
Why Goat Hill is the Soul of Shelter Island Golf
Let’s talk about Goat Hill first. Officially, it’s the Shelter Island Country Club. If you’re looking for a 7,000-yard championship layout with GPS-enabled carts and a beverage girl every three holes, you’re in the wrong place. Go back to the ferry.
Goat Hill is a 9-hole public course. It sits on the highest point of the island. It was founded in 1901, and frankly, it feels like it. The fairways aren't always perfect. The greens can be tricky. But the views? You get a 360-degree look at the island, the harbor, and the Atlantic in the distance. It is, quite simply, one of the most scenic spots in New York.
The Layout is a Leg Workout
You'll start at the clubhouse, which is an old, creaky, beautiful Victorian building. It’s called Flying Goat now (the restaurant), and it’s where you should end your day with a burger. The first hole is a blind uphill shot. You’re hitting into the sky. If you don't have a cart, your calves will be screaming by the third hole. Seriously. The elevation changes are no joke.
The course is par 33. It’s short, sure, but the wind coming off the water makes a 300-yard par 4 play like a 450-yard monster. You have to play "ground game" golf here. It’s links-style in spirit, even if the grass isn't true fescue. You’ll see locals playing in t-shirts and billionaire homeowners playing in $200 polos. That’s the magic. Nobody cares who you are as long as you keep up the pace and respect the history.
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What Most People Get Wrong About Public Golf Here
People think "9 holes" means "easy" or "quick." On a Saturday in July, Goat Hill is neither. It’s a social hub. You might get stuck behind a family with three generations playing together. Relax. Lean into it. The island operates on "island time," and if you try to rush your round, the narrow fairways will punish you. You need to bring your short game. The greens are small, often elevated, and if you miss long, you’re basically in someone's backyard or a thicket of brush.
Gardiner’s Bay Country Club: The Private Side of the Island
If Goat Hill is the island's soul, Gardiner’s Bay is its crown jewel. This is a private club, so unless you know a member or you're part of a reciprocal program, getting on is tough. But if you do? Wow.
Seth Raynor and Charles Banks—names that make golf architecture nerds salivate—had their hands on this place. It was originally designed by James Burbeck and later refined. It has those classic "template" holes that Raynor is famous for. Think Redans and Edens. It’s a masterclass in using the natural terrain of the island.
The 150-Acre Masterpiece
The course sits on about 150 acres of rolling hills. Unlike the public course, the conditioning here is immaculate. The bunkers are sharp. The greens are fast—sometimes terrifyingly so. What makes this Shelter Island golf course stand out from the big-name clubs in the Hamptons (like Shinnecock or National) is the intimacy. You feel tucked away. You aren't seeing traffic or hearing sirens. You’re just hearing the wind in the trees and the occasional boat whistle.
The Difficulty Factor
Don't let the yardage fool you. It’s not a long course by modern standards, playing around 6,400 yards from the tips. But it’s a par 70. Every hole requires a different shape. You can't just bomb a driver and hope for the best. The doglegs are sharp, and the bunkering is strategic. If you find yourself in a Raynor-style bunker, good luck. You're going to need a high-lofted wedge and a prayer.
The signature is undoubtedly the views of Gardiner’s Bay. On a clear day, you can see all the way to Connecticut. It’s distracting. You’ll be standing on the tee box, trying to focus on your grip, and you’ll find yourself staring at a sailboat instead.
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How to Actually Plan a Golf Trip to Shelter Island
If you're coming from New York City or even further out, you have to be strategic. You can’t just drive onto the island.
- The Ferries: You have two choices. The North Ferry comes from Greenport (North Fork). The South Ferry comes from North Haven (South Fork/Sag Harbor). The North Ferry is usually busier. If you’re coming on a weekend, expect a line. Sometimes a long one.
- Transport: If you're playing Goat Hill, you can actually walk from the North Ferry if you’re feeling athletic. It’s about a 10-15 minute hike uphill. If you’re heading to Gardiner’s Bay, you’ll definitely need a car.
- Booking Tee Times: For the public course, you can usually book online or just call. They’re friendly. For Gardiner’s Bay, you’re looking at a "member-guest" situation.
- Gear: There is a pro shop at both, but don't expect a massive selection of clubs. Bring what you need. And bring extra socks. The morning dew on the island is heavy.
The Hidden Costs
Remember the ferry isn't free. You're paying for the car and the passengers. It adds up. Also, Shelter Island is small. Gas is expensive. Food is expensive. It’s a premium experience even at the "public" level, so just budget for it and don't let the $25 ferry ride ruin your mood before you hit the first tee.
The Best Time to Play
Everyone wants to be here in July and August. Don't do that if you can avoid it. It’s crowded, humid, and the deer flies can be aggressive. Yes, the flies. They’re a real thing on the island, and they don't care about your expensive bug spray.
September is the sweet spot.
The water is still warm, the air is crisp, and the summer crowds have mostly vanished back to the city. The turf is at its best in the fall. The greens have recovered from the summer heat. Plus, the light in September on the East End of Long Island is legendary. It’s that golden, low-angle sun that makes every fairway look like a painting.
Late May and early June are also great, though you might deal with some "May Gray" fog rolling off the water. If that happens, the course becomes a ghost world. You can't see 50 yards in front of you. It’s spooky and brilliant.
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What Else Is Nearby?
You shouldn't just come for the golf. That would be a waste. Shelter Island has some of the best low-key dining in the region.
- The Ram’s Head Inn: Great for a post-round drink. It’s classic island vibes.
- Sunset Beach: If you want the "see and be seen" French Riviera atmosphere, head here. It’s the total opposite of the golf courses.
- Mashomack Preserve: If you have any energy left, walk the trails. It’s over 2,000 acres of untouched nature. It gives you a sense of what the island looked like before the golf courses were even a thought.
Common Misconceptions About Shelter Island Golf
One thing I hear a lot is that you need a caddy. At Gardiner's Bay, sure, it helps. At Goat Hill? Definitely not. You'll look a bit silly.
Another one: "It's always windy." Okay, this one is actually true. I’ve seen 40 mph gusts on the 4th hole at Goat Hill that will take a perfectly struck 7-iron and put it in the woods three fairways over. You have to learn to "knock it down." If you don't know how to hit a low stinger, you’re going to learn real fast on Shelter Island.
Also, don't expect "resort" amenities everywhere. These are old-school clubs. The locker rooms are tight. The parking lots are gravel. It’s about the game, not the fluff. That’s why people love it. It’s golf stripped down to its essentials: you, a stick, a ball, and a whole lot of grass and wind.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
To make the most of your trip to a Shelter Island golf course, follow these specific steps:
- Check the Ferry Schedule: Use the North Ferry website for real-time updates. If there's a festival in Greenport, you might be waiting an hour just to get on the boat.
- Pack for Four Seasons: Even in summer, the temperature can drop 15 degrees when the sun goes down or the wind shifts. Bring a light windbreaker.
- Hydrate Early: The elevation at Goat Hill is deceptive. You're climbing more than you think.
- Download a GPS App: Neither course has high-tech carts with screens. Use an app like 18Birdies or Hole19 to get your distances, especially since there are so many blind shots.
- Respect the "Quiet": Shelter Island is a residential community. When you’re driving to the course, slow down. Watch for deer—there are thousands of them, and they are not afraid of your car.
- Eat at the Clubhouse: Supporting the local restaurants at these courses is what keeps them going. The Flying Goat at the public course is a local treasure for a reason.
Whether you're playing the high-end private greens or the rugged hills of the public 9, golf here is an experience. It's not just a round; it's a journey. You leave the mainland behind, you cross the water, and you play the game the way it was meant to be played—with a little bit of struggle and a lot of scenery.