You’ve seen it on the street, in the gym, and definitely all over your Instagram feed. The contrast is what hits you first. There is something undeniably sharp about the way a crisp skin fade or an undercut sits against the organic, textured weight of mature locs. Shaved sides with locs isn't just a trend that popped up overnight. It’s a deliberate middle ground. It’s for the person who wants the spiritual and cultural weight of locs but doesn't want to deal with the overwhelming heat or the "corporate" friction that sometimes comes with a full head of hair.
Honestly? It’s a relief for your scalp.
Think about the weight. If you’ve been growing your hair for five, ten, or fifteen years, you know the literal physical toll it takes on your neck. Locs are heavy. By shaving the sides and the back—essentially creating a "loc hawk" or a high-top dreadlock style—you’re shedding about 30% to 50% of that weight. It changes how you carry yourself. You can actually feel the breeze. It's functional, but let’s be real, most people do it because it looks incredibly cool.
The Cultural Shift Toward the Loc Undercut
For a long time, the "rules" of locs were pretty rigid. You either had a full head or you were just starting out. But the modern landscape has shifted. We are seeing a massive move toward "hybrid" grooming. This is where the precision of traditional barbering meets the patience of the loc journey.
Barbers like Chuka Torres (celebrity barber to stars like Kyrie Irving) have talked about how the "drop fade" or the "taper" has become a staple for loc wearers. It’s no longer about just letting your hair grow wild; it’s about architectural design. When you have shaved sides with locs, the silhouette of your face changes. It pulls the eyes upward. It highlights the jawline.
There’s also the professional angle. While it sucks that "professionalism" is often a coded way to police Black hair, many people find that keeping the sides tight and the edges crisp allows them to navigate corporate spaces with less "commentary" from HR. It’s a compromise that shouldn't have to exist, but it’s a reality many live with.
Why Your Barber Might Be Nervous
If you walk into a shop and tell a barber you want to shave the sides of your three-year-old locs, a good one will pause. They should.
Once those locs are gone, they are gone. You can't just "grow them back" in a month like a buzz cut. You are cutting off years of history. A common mistake is going too high with the shave. If the barber takes the clippers past the parietal ridge (the widest part of your head), you lose the "hang time" that makes the style look balanced. You end up with a tiny patch of locs on top that looks more like a mushroom than a hairstyle.
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Communication is everything. You need to decide if you want a temp fade, where only the sideburns and nape are cleared, or a full undercut, where everything below the temple is buzzed down to a 1 or a 2 guard.
Maintenance Is Not Actually Easier (Sorry)
People think shaving the sides means less work. That’s a lie.
In fact, it’s often more work. When you have a full head of locs, you can go two or three months without a retwist and it just looks like "new growth." It blends. But when you have shaved sides with locs, that fade needs to stay fresh. If the sides grow out into a fuzzy, unkempt mess while the top is neatly twisted, the whole look falls apart.
You’re looking at a barber visit every 2 to 3 weeks.
- The Fade: Needs constant touch-ups to keep the "pop."
- The Lineup: The front edge where the locs meet the forehead is the focal point.
- Scalp Health: Shaved skin is exposed skin. You have to moisturize that fade just as much as you oil your locs.
If you’re someone who hates the barber chair, this isn't the style for you. You’re trading the "long session" of a full head retwist for the "frequent session" of side maintenance. It’s a trade-off.
Tension and Thinning: The Silent Risk
We have to talk about Traction Alopecia. This is real.
When you reduce the number of locs on your head but still try to pull them back into a tight ponytail or a bun, you are putting a massive amount of stress on the locs at the very edge of the shaved area. Because there are fewer locs to share the load, those perimeter locs take a beating.
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Dr. Crystal Aguh, a dermatologist at Johns Hopkins who specializes in hair loss in Black women, has often pointed out that tension is the number one enemy of hair longevity. If you notice your "border" locs getting thinner or if you see small bumps along the hairline, you’re pulling too tight.
Keep it loose. Let them hang. The beauty of shaved sides with locs is the movement. Don't choke your follicles just to get a "sleek" look.
Styling the Top: More Than Just a Bun
The versatility here is actually wild. You aren't stuck with one look.
- The Barrel Roll: This is the gold standard for this style. It keeps the locs close to the scalp, emphasizing the shaved sides. It looks like armor.
- Two-Strand Twists: If your locs are long enough, twisting them together makes them look thicker. This creates a great contrast with a skin-tight fade.
- The Loose Hang: Honestly, just letting them fall over the shaved side (the "side-swept" look) is incredibly underrated. It’s effortless.
- Freeform Top: Some people keep the sides shaved but let the top do whatever it wants. It’s a mix of punk rock and traditional roots.
Common Misconceptions About the Transition
Most people think you have to start with short hair to get this look. You don't. I've seen people with waist-length locs decide one day that they’re done with the heat and shave the bottom half of their head.
The "Big Chop" doesn't have to be the whole head.
However, there is a psychological "weight" to it. Your hair holds memories. For many in the loc community, cutting any part of the hair feels like losing a piece of a journey. If you’re feeling impulsive, wait 48 hours. If you still want the shave after two days of thinking about it, go for it.
Also, let’s talk about the "itch factor." When you first shave your sides, the hair grows back prickly. As it rubs against your hanging locs, it can be annoying. You’ll need a good scalp balm—something with tea tree or peppermint—to keep that irritation down during the first week of regrowth.
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Actionable Steps for Your Next Appointment
If you’re ready to take the plunge into shaved sides with locs, don't just wing it.
First, find your "line." Put your hair up in a ponytail exactly how you would wear it. Look in the mirror. Everything that is not in that ponytail is a candidate for being shaved. If you like how much is left in the pony, that’s your guide.
Second, choose your fade height. A low taper is safe. It’s subtle. A high and tight is bold. It changes your face shape. If you have a rounder face, a higher shave can help elongate your profile. If you have a long face, keep the shave lower to avoid looking too "vertical."
Third, invest in a silk or satin wrap that actually fits. Standard bonnets might slip off because there’s less hair to "grip" on the sides. You need something with a tie or a wide band that sits comfortably on the shaved skin without sliding.
Finally, prepare for the weather. It sounds silly until you’re outside in January, but your head will be colder. Buy a good beanie. You’ll thank me later.
The move to shaved sides is a declaration. It says you value the tradition of locs but you aren't a prisoner to the "expected" way of wearing them. It’s modern, it’s breathable, and frankly, it’s one of the most striking ways to wear your crown in 2026. Keep the edges sharp, the scalp hydrated, and the tension low. Your hair will do the rest.
Next Steps for Success:
- Identify your "safe zone": Use a mirror to section off the locs you want to keep before hitting the barber shop.
- Consult a specialist: Find a barber who specifically has experience working with locs to ensure they don't accidentally clip a "keeper" during the fade.
- Moisture Routine: Pick up a lightweight, non-comedogenic oil (like jojoba) to keep the shaved areas from flaking, which is much more visible on a fade.
- Tension Check: For the first two weeks, wear your locs down to let the new "border" follicles adjust to the change in weight distribution.