You just unboxed it. That smell of fresh aluminum and glass is great, but now you’re staring at a "Hello" screen and wondering if you're about to lose all your Procreate brushes or that specific Safari tab group you've kept open since 2022. Honestly, the process to set up new iPad from old iPad has become remarkably slick over the last few years, but it’s still prone to those "Why is this taking four hours?" moments that make you want to toss the thing out a window.
Apple wants you to think it's a one-tap miracle. It usually is. Except when your Wi-Fi flakes out or your old iPad is running an OS from three years ago.
Why Quick Start is Usually Your Best Bet
Most people should just use Quick Start. It's that proximity-based magic where you hold one device near the other and a swirling blue cloud appears. You scan it with the old camera, and boom, they're talking. But here is the thing: Quick Start offers two very different paths, and picking the wrong one might double your wait time.
One path downloads everything from iCloud. The other does a direct device-to-device transfer. If you have blazing fast fiber internet, iCloud might be quicker because the iPad can start usable basics while the rest trickles in. But if your home internet is spotty, go for the direct transfer. This basically creates a private local ad-hoc network between the two tablets. It’s stable. It’s local. It doesn't care if your ISP is having a bad day.
Just make sure both are plugged into power. Seriously. If one dies halfway through, you’re looking at a factory reset and starting from scratch, which is a massive headache.
The Software Update Trap
Here’s a scenario that happens constantly. You try to set up new iPad from old iPad, and halfway through the "handshake," the new one demands a software update. This is the "iPadOS Loop of Death." The new iPad comes from the factory with an older version of the OS than what’s currently on your old iPad. Apple won't let you move a backup from a "newer" OS to an "older" one.
The fix? Set up the new iPad as a "New Device" first. Skip every single login screen. Don't add FaceID. Don't add a passcode. Just get to the home screen. Go to Settings, General, Software Update. Grab the latest version. Once it's installed, go back to Settings -> General -> Transfer or Reset iPad -> Erase All Content and Settings. Now try the transfer. It sounds like a lot of extra work, but it saves you from the "Update Requested" screen that sits there spinning for eternity.
The iCloud Backup Method vs. The Local Computer Route
Some of us still trust cables. Or maybe your old iPad is already traded in, and all you have is a backup. If you’re moving from an iPad Pro with a massive 1TB of storage that’s nearly full, iCloud might actually be a nightmare unless you pay for the 2TB tier.
Why Mac or PC is still relevant in 2026
If you have a Mac or a PC with iTunes (or the Apple Devices app on Windows), use a cable. It is objectively the fastest way to move massive amounts of data. Plus, it’s the only way to ensure your local music files or side-loaded PDFs actually make the jump without syncing errors.
- Connect the old iPad to your computer.
- In Finder or the Apple Devices app, select "Encrypt Local Backup." This is crucial. If you don't check that "Encrypt" box, Apple won't save your passwords or Health data for security reasons. You'll end up having to log back into every single app manually.
- Once the backup is done, plug in the new iPad.
- Choose "Restore from Mac/PC" during the initial setup.
It’s old school. It works.
What Actually Moves and What Stays Behind?
People get nervous about their stuff. "Will my Kindle books stay?" "Are my game saves safe?"
Most things move. Your wallpaper, your icon layout, your folders—all of that is part of the metadata. However, the apps themselves don't actually "move" from one device to the other in the way you might think. The iPad tells the App Store, "Hey, I need these 142 apps," and then it starts downloading them fresh.
This is why your new iPad looks like a graveyard of gray icons for the first hour.
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The Authentication Headache
Banking apps are the worst. They won't just let you in. Because the hardware ID has changed, most high-security apps like Wells Fargo, Chase, or even some authenticator apps like Google Authenticator (if not synced to the cloud) will require a re-verification.
- Pro Tip: Do not erase your old iPad yet. Keep it alive and logged in until you have verified that your banking apps and 2FA codes are working on the new device. If you erase the old one too soon, you might find yourself locked out of your own bank account because you can't receive the "trust this device" prompt.
Dealing with Specialized Professional Apps
If you're a digital artist or a video editor, the standard ways to set up new iPad from old iPad might leave you sweating. Take Procreate, for example. While Procreate should back up via iCloud, many artists have found that if their gallery is massive (we're talking hundreds of 4K canvases), the backup might be incomplete or corrupted.
For mission-critical data, don't rely on the "Restore" process alone. Manually export your most important projects to a cloud drive or an external SSD. Better safe than sorry.
The "Other" Storage Mystery
Ever noticed how your old iPad says it's using 100GB, but the new one says it's using 120GB? Or 80GB? Don't panic. This is usually just the system re-indexing. The "System Data" (formerly called "Other") is basically a cache. When you move to a new device, the iPad has to rebuild its search index, re-scan your Photos library for faces (which happens while it's charging), and re-download high-resolution versions of your iCloud photos. Give it 48 hours before you start worrying about storage discrepancies.
Common Troubleshooting Tips
Sometimes the "Set up new iPad" screen just refuses to appear. You're holding them together, Bluetooth is on, but... nothing.
- Bluetooth Toggle: Turn it off and back on for both. It's the "did you try unplugging it?" of the wireless world.
- Version Mismatch: As mentioned before, if the old one is on a Beta version of iPadOS and the new one isn't, they won't talk. You have to put the new one on the Beta profile first.
- Wi-Fi Frequency: Sometimes if one is on a 2.4GHz band and the other is on 5GHz, they get confused. Try to make sure they are on the same network.
Final Steps for a Clean Transition
Once the progress bar finishes and the new iPad boots to the home screen, you aren't actually done. There are a few manual tasks that the automated process usually misses.
First, check your Apple Pencil. If you have a Pencil Pro or an Apple Pencil (USB-C), you'll need to physically snap it onto the side or plug it in to "pair" it with the new hardware. It doesn't move over automatically because the pairing is hardware-to-hardware.
Second, check your Mail accounts. Often, for security, the passwords for IMAP or Outlook accounts need to be re-entered. You'll see a little "Account Error" flag in the Mail app or under Settings.
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Third, go to Settings -> Safari -> Extensions. If you use ad blockers or specialized Safari tools, they often need to be manually re-enabled and given permissions again.
The Last Move: Wiping the Old Device
Only when you are 100% sure that every photo, every drawing, and every save file is on the new machine should you wipe the old one.
Go to Settings > General > Transfer or Reset iPad. Tap Erase All Content and Settings. This doesn't just delete your files; it cryptographically destroys the keys, making your data unrecoverable, and it automatically removes the device from your "Find My" network and your Apple ID. This is essential if you're selling it or giving it away. If you just "log out" of iCloud, the next person might still run into Activation Lock, which is a nightmare for everyone involved.
Moving to a new iPad is basically the digital version of moving house. It’s annoying, there’s always one box that goes missing for a day, but once you’re settled in, the extra speed and the better screen make the hassle worth it.
Actionable Insights for a Smooth Setup
- Charge both devices to 100% before starting, or keep them both on a brick.
- Update your old iPad to the latest available software version before you even unbox the new one.
- Check your iCloud storage to ensure your last backup was successful and happened within the last 24 hours.
- Manually offload large files (like 4K video projects) to an external drive to speed up the wireless transfer.
- Verify your 2FA apps on the new device before wiping the old one to avoid being locked out of secure accounts.
- Keep the devices physically close (within 2 inches) during the Quick Start process to maintain a stable connection.