You’re standing on your porch. It’s raining. Your groceries are leaking through the bottom of a paper bag, and for some reason, your house keys have decided to migrate to the deepest, darkest corner of your backpack. We’ve all been there. It’s the universal "why do I still live like this?" moment that eventually leads people to look up schlage door locks with keypad options. But honestly, most people buy these things for the wrong reasons, or they pick the wrong model because they get blinded by fancy touchscreens.
Schlage has been around since Walter Schlage started the company in 1920. That’s over a century of making metal click into other metal. While the tech has changed, the core problem hasn’t: you want to keep people out while making it dead simple for you to get in.
The Deadbolt vs. Lever Dilemma
Before you even look at the "smart" features, you have to look at your door. Seriously. Go look at it. Is it a standard deadbolt where the locking mechanism is separate from the handle? Or is it an all-in-one lever situation?
Most homeowners go for the Schlage Encode or the Schlage Camelot deadbolts. These are the heavy hitters. They replace the bolt above your handle. If you’re a renter or you have a side door with just a locking knob, you might be looking at the FE595 or the Schlage Touch Keyless Touchscreen Lever.
Here is the thing: the lever locks are great for interior doors—think home offices or wine cellars—but they aren't always the beefiest choice for a front entrance. For real security, you want a Grade 1 or Grade 2 deadbolt. Schlage is one of the few consumer brands that consistently hits the ANSI/BHMA Grade 1 rating, which is basically the gold standard for residential security. It means the lock can withstand a certain number of sledgehammer blows and tension tests.
Why the Schlage Encode is Currently Winning
If you’ve spent any time on Reddit’s r/HomeAutomation, you know the Schlage Encode is basically the "Golden Child." Why? Because it doesn’t need a separate bridge or hub. It talks directly to your Wi-Fi.
That sounds like a small detail. It isn't.
Older models like the Schlage Connect require a Z-Wave or Zigbee hub. If you don't know what those words mean, you definitely don't want to buy those locks. You'll end up frustrated, staring at a "Cannot Connect" screen on your phone while your neighbor’s dog judges you from across the street. The Encode just works. You plug in your Wi-Fi password, and suddenly you’re locking your door from a beach in Cabo.
But there’s a catch.
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Wi-Fi eats batteries. It’s a hungry, hungry beast. While a Z-Wave lock might last a year on four AAs, a Wi-Fi-connected schlage door lock with keypad might start chirping at you in six months if you have a high-traffic household.
The "No-Key" Philosophy of the Schlage Touch
Some people hate keys. Like, they truly despise them. If that’s you, the Schlage Touch (BE375) is fascinating because it doesn't even have a keyhole.
"But what if the battery dies?"
Schlage thought of that. There are two metal contact points on the bottom. You hold a 9V battery to them, it gives the lock a temporary jumpstart, you punch in your code, and you're in. It’s clever. It also makes the lock "pick-proof" and "bump-proof" because, well, there’s no hole to stick a pick into.
The Reality of Physical Security
Let’s be real for a second. A lock is only as good as the door frame it’s attached to. You can buy the most expensive schlage door lock with keypad on the market, but if your door frame is made of soft pine and held together by half-inch screws, a teenager with a bad attitude can kick it in.
When you install your Schlage, use the long 3-inch screws that come in the box for the strike plate. These go through the frame and into the actual wooden studs of the house. That’s the difference between a door that pops open and a door that stays shut.
Also, don’t ignore the "vacation mode." This is a feature on most Schlage electronic locks that disables all access codes. If you’re going away for a week, you turn this on, and even if someone guessed your code or found your spare key, they aren't getting in through that keypad.
Comparison of the Heavy Hitters
Let's break down the three models you're actually going to choose between. Forget the fluff.
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- Schlage Encode Plus: This is the "Everything" lock. It has Apple HomeKey support. You literally just tap your iPhone or Apple Watch against the lock like you're paying for a latte at Starbucks. It’s expensive. It’s arguably overkill. But man, it’s cool.
- Schlage Encode: The standard Wi-Fi version. Great for most people. Works with Alexa and Google Assistant. Very reliable.
- Schlage Camelot / Century Keypad Deadbolt (BE365): This is the "Old Reliable." It’s not "smart." It doesn't connect to your phone. It just stores codes locally. If you want zero chance of a hacker in another country messing with your door, this is the one.
The BE365 is actually my favorite for rental properties. Why? Because I don't want to troubleshoot a tenant’s Wi-Fi at 2 AM. It just works.
Common Failures and How to Fix Them
Batteries are the obvious one. Use high-quality alkaline batteries. Don't use rechargeable ones—the voltage curve is different, and the lock might think it’s dead when it’s not, or worse, die without warning.
Then there’s the "bolt jam."
If your door is slightly misaligned—maybe the house settled or the weather stripped expanded—the bolt might rub against the strike plate. If a smart lock senses resistance, it’ll often give up and send an error to your phone. You’ll hear a grinding noise. It’s painful. To fix this, you don't need a new lock; you need a wood file or a screwdriver to slightly shift the metal plate on the door frame.
What About the "Hackability"?
People worry about their schlage door locks with keypad getting hacked. Is it possible? Technically, yes. Is it likely? Not really.
Most burglars aren't MIT graduates with signal-sniffing equipment. They’re looking for an unlocked window or a hidden key under a fake rock (seriously, stop doing the fake rock thing). The encryption on the Encode and Encode Plus is enterprise-grade. You’re much more likely to have someone guess your "1-2-3-4" code than you are to have someone "hack" the Wi-Fi signal.
Smart Home Integration
If you’re building an ecosystem, Schlage plays nice with others, but it has preferences.
- Apple Users: Get the Encode Plus. Don't look at anything else. The HomeKey integration is a game-changer.
- Alexa/Google Users: The standard Encode is your best friend. You can set up routines so that when you say "Goodnight," the house locks itself and the lights dim.
- The Privacy Minded: Stick to the BE365. No cloud, no apps, no problem.
Actionable Steps for Your Installation
If you're ready to make the jump, here is how you do it without losing your mind.
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First, measure your "backset." This is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole where the lock sits. It’s either 2-3/8 inches or 2-3/4 inches. Most Schlage locks are adjustable, but it’s good to know before you start.
Second, check your door thickness. Standard doors are 1-3/8 to 1-3/4 inches. If you have a fancy, extra-thick custom door, you might need a "thick door kit" from Schlage.
Third, when you’re installing the keypad, make sure the wire doesn't get pinched. This is the #1 cause of "my lock worked for a day and then died." Be gentle with the ribbon cable.
Fourth, change your codes immediately. Don't leave the factory default codes active. Every Schlage comes with a yellow sticker that has two default user codes and one programming code. Peel that sticker off and put it in your junk drawer or a digital vault like 1Password.
Fifth, set up a "one-time" code for your neighbor or the delivery guy. One of the best parts of having a schlage door lock with keypad is that you can delete a code five minutes after someone uses it. No more handing out physical keys that can be copied at a kiosk.
Ultimately, these locks are about peace of mind. There is a specific kind of relief that comes from being five miles away from home and being able to check your phone to confirm the door is actually locked. It turns out, that’s worth the price of admission.
Next Steps for Your Home Security:
- Audit your current door hardware: Measure your backset and check for Grade 1 or 2 ratings on your existing deadbolt to see if an upgrade is even necessary.
- Determine your "Smart" level: Decide if you truly need Wi-Fi connectivity (Remote access) or if a localized keypad (No-tech) fits your lifestyle better.
- Inspect your strike plate: Buy 3-inch hardened steel screws today and replace the flimsy 1-inch screws in your current door frame to immediately increase kick-in resistance by roughly 200%.