If you grew up on the North Shore of Massachusetts, you know that summer didn't officially start until you had a paper cone in one hand and a napkin in the other, standing on the pavement at Salem Willows. We're talking about Salem Lowe Salem MA, a place that was basically a rite of passage for generations. Honestly, it wasn't just about the food. It was the smell of saltwater mixed with soy sauce and the sound of the arcade games chiming in the background.
But if you’ve tried to swing by lately, you might have noticed the windows are dark. The story of Salem Lowe isn't just a "closed for the season" update; it’s a saga of a 110-year-old legacy, a retirement that broke the internet (or at least local Facebook groups), and a reboot that didn't quite stick the landing.
The Sandwich That Defined Salem Lowe Salem MA
Let's get the big question out of the way: What is a chop suey sandwich? To an outsider, it sounds... weird. Basically, it’s a heap of bean sprouts, onions, celery, and either chicken or pork, all simmered in a thick, salty gravy. Then, they slap it onto a hamburger bun.
Some people call it a "slimy bean-sprout pile," but for locals, it’s food of the gods. At Salem Lowe, they famously served it in a cardboard cone if you wanted to walk around the park. It was cheap. It was messy. It was perfect.
The roots of this thing go way back to the late 19th century. Chinese immigrants in Massachusetts created it to bridge the gap between traditional flavors and the American "lunch wagon" culture. While you can find a "chow mein sandwich" over in Fall River (which usually uses deep-fried noodles), the Salem version is all about that soft, gravy-soaked chop suey.
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A Timeline of a Century-Long Run
Fred W. Yee started the whole thing back in 1912. Originally, they were located on Essex Street, then moved to Washington Street. But it was the seasonal stand at Salem Willows that became the heart of the operation.
The Yee family ran the show for decades. David Yee eventually took the reins and kept the tradition alive for 50 years. Imagine that. Working the same window, serving the same sandwiches to the grandkids of the people your father served.
But in August 2022, David decided it was finally time to hang up the apron. The lines that final weekend were legendary. We’re talking 80+ people deep, stretching down the Willows strip, past the popcorn stands and the arcades. People weren't just buying food; they were saying goodbye to their childhoods.
The 2023 Reboot: A New Chapter for Salem Lowe
For a minute there, it looked like the story wasn't over. In 2023, the owners of Spitfire Tacos—Ryan Harriman and Kathleen Rodgers—stepped in to save the day. They were locals who grew up eating at the Willows. They didn't want to see a piece of history vanish.
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They spent months remodeling. They put in new plumbing and equipment, but they kept the old sign. Most importantly, they worked with the Yee family to get the original recipes. They even brought back the pepper steak and the homemade noodles.
"The chop suey sandwich, to me, is a sacred thing," Harriman told the press at the time. "We don't want that to change."
But running a seasonal spot in a historic park is a whole different beast than running a year-round taco shop. Even though people were stoked to have it back, the reality of the business was tough.
Why Salem Lowe Closed Again in 2024
On September 23, 2024, the news dropped on social media. After just two seasons, the new owners decided to close Salem Lowe Salem MA for good. It wasn't because of a lack of love, but because the "concept just doesn't really have a place there anymore," according to Harriman.
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They officially put the space up for lease. As of early 2026, the future of the physical location at 197 Fort Ave remains a question mark. The Willows itself is evolving. While the arcades and E.W. Hobbs popcorn are still there, the "Restaurant Row" vibe of the mid-20th century has definitely shifted.
What You Need to Know if You’re Visiting Salem Willows Now
If you’re heading to Salem today looking for that specific sandwich, you might be out of luck at the original window. Here’s the current reality:
- Status: Salem Lowe is currently closed and the space is available for lease.
- The Park: Salem Willows Park is still open for strolling, picnics, and the pier.
- Alternatives: You can still get your sugar fix at E.W. Hobbs (the popcorn and ice cream are non-negotiable).
- The Sandwich: Some other spots in the North Shore occasionally carry a version of the chop suey sandwich, but none have the 112-year street cred of the Lowe.
Actionable Insights for the Salem Nostalgic
Since you can't just walk up to the window right now, here is how you can keep the spirit of Salem Lowe Salem MA alive or handle your next trip to the Willows:
- Try a DIY Version: During the restaurant's first hiatus, many fans started making their own. The secret is the "soy gravy." You need a lot of celery and bean sprouts, a light soy sauce base, and enough cornstarch to make it stick to the bun without turning it into a total puddle.
- Support the Area: The Willows is a seasonal ecosystem. If you want the park to stay vibrant, you’ve gotta visit the places that are still there. Go play the vintage Fortune Teller machine or grab a bag of buttered popcorn.
- Check for Pop-ups: Keep an eye on local Salem food groups on social media. Sometimes local chefs do "homage" menus where they bring back the chop suey sandwich for a weekend.
- Explore the History: If you’re a real history nerd, the Salem State University archives have old menus and photos of the original Essex Street location. It’s a cool look at how Chinese-American food evolved in New England.
The loss of Salem Lowe is a bummer, no doubt. It’s one of those things that reminds you that nothing stays the same forever, even in a town as obsessed with history as Salem. But the fact that people are still talking about a bean sprout sandwich two years after the original owner retired says everything you need to know about the impact this little stand had on the community.
Keep an eye on the 197 Fort Ave storefront. Someone might just be brave enough to pick up the tongs and start the next 100 years.