Walk down 57th Street in Manhattan and you’ll see it. That black square. It’s on the bags, the awnings, and even the little stickers holding the tissue paper together inside a box of Prada heels. Honestly, the Saks Fifth Avenue logo shouldn't work as well as it does. It’s a messy, jumbled collection of lines that looks like someone put a calligraphy pen in a blender.
But that’s exactly why it’s brilliant.
In a world where every luxury brand is "de-branding"—basically throwing away their unique history to look like the same boring, minimalist sans-serif font—Saks went the other way. They took something old, broke it into sixty-four pieces, and created a visual language that feels more like modern art than a corporate trademark.
The Cursive That Defined An Era
Before we get to the "DNA" square we know today, we have to talk about the 1970s. For decades, Saks played around with different looks. In the 40s, they had this stiff, uppercase serif font that felt like a bank. Then came some thin, playful scripts. But the real magic happened in 1973.
Tom Carnese, a legendary typographer, designed a signature-style logo that felt... well, expensive. It was elegant. It had these long, sweeping flourishes that made you think of old-money New York and white-glove service. For most people over a certain age, that is the definitive Saks Fifth Avenue logo.
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But by the late 90s, the brand got cold feet. They switched to a geometric font called Optima. It was fine. Clean. Professional. But it was also totally forgettable. It lacked the "soul" of the flagship store. When you’re competing with the orange of Hermès or the blue of Tiffany, you can't just be "clean." You need an icon.
Michael Bierut And The 64 Squares
In 2007, Saks decided to fix their identity crisis. They called in Pentagram, specifically Michael Bierut. If you don't know Bierut, he’s basically the Michael Jordan of graphic design. He’s the guy who worked under Massimo Vignelli (who, fun fact, also had a hand in the 73 Saks look).
Bierut realized something smart: people loved the old 1970s cursive, but it felt a little too "grandma’s stationery" for the 21st century. Instead of just bringing it back, he and his team, including font designer Joe Finocchiaro, decided to perform what they called "liposuction" on the script.
They thinned out the lines. They sharpened the edges. Then, they did the unthinkable.
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They put the logo in a square and chopped it into a grid of 64 smaller tiles.
Why the Shuffle Works
The genius isn't just the logo itself; it's how they use the pieces.
- Infinite Variety: Those 64 tiles can be rotated and shuffled. On one bag, you might see the "S" from Saks. On a smaller box, you might just see a beautiful, abstract curve that looks like a Franz Kline painting.
- The DNA Factor: They called this system "DNA." Even if you only see a tiny fraction of the logo, your brain recognizes the "Saks-ness" of it.
- The Black and White Palette: By sticking to high-contrast monochrome, the brand stays grounded. It never feels "trendy" or dated because black and white is the ultimate safety net for luxury.
What Most People Get Wrong About The Redesign
There’s a common misconception that the Saks Fifth Avenue logo is just one fixed image. It’s not. It’s a modular system. Most brands are terrified of people "messing" with their logo. They have 50-page brand guidelines saying "don't stretch the logo" or "don't cut the logo."
Saks did the exact opposite. They invited the mess.
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When you see a Saks bag today, you’re looking at a puzzle. Sometimes the "Fifth" is upside down. Sometimes the "Avenue" is sliced in half. This creates a sense of "discovery." It mirrors the experience of walking through the store—you’re turning corners, finding new designers, and seeing things from different angles. It’s a rare example of a logo that actually behaves like the business it represents.
The 2026 Context: Why It Still Matters
We’re seeing a massive shift in how people shop. With the recent formation of Saks Global (following the big Hudson’s Bay acquisition of Neiman Marcus), the stakes for brand identity are higher than ever.
As digital shopping takes over, the physical touchpoints—the boxes, the bags, the app icon—have to do all the heavy lifting. The Saks Fifth Avenue logo works across all of them. It looks just as good as a 16-pixel favicon on a smartphone as it does on a massive billboard in Beverly Hills.
Actionable Insights For Brand Lovers
If you're looking at the Saks story and wondering how it applies to your own projects or just your appreciation for design, here are a few things to keep in mind:
- Don't ignore your heritage. Saks tried to go modern in the 90s and lost their identity. They only found success again by looking back at what made them famous in the first place.
- Consistency doesn't mean sameness. You can have a cohesive brand without making everything look identical. The "DNA" tiles prove that you can vary the execution while keeping the vibe.
- Black and white is a superpower. If your design can’t work in monochrome, it probably isn’t strong enough.
- Embrace the abstract. Sometimes, letting the customer fill in the blanks makes the brand feel more sophisticated and high-end.
Take a closer look at your next Saks bag. Don't just see a logo. Look for the "S," find the "A," and notice how those 64 little squares are telling a story that started over a hundred years ago. It’s not just a name on a building; it’s a masterclass in how to stay relevant without losing your soul.
To really see how this works in practice, compare a vintage 1970s Saks ad with a 2026 digital campaign. You'll notice that while the technology changed, the "signature" of the brand remains remarkably consistent. Next time you're near a flagship location, check the architectural details—you might just see those cursive flourishes hidden in places you never noticed before.