You’re standing on a rugged, fog-swept coastline that looks exactly like Newfoundland. The wind smells like salt and diesel. But then you look down and see a bright yellow Peugeot parked next to a bakery selling artisanal baguettes and croissants that actually taste like they came from Paris. You aren’t in Canada anymore. You’re in Saint Pierre et Miquelon.
It is the last remaining vestige of New France in North America. Honestly, most people just assume France lost everything after the Seven Years' War, but this tiny archipelago stuck around. It sits just 25 kilometers off the coast of Burin Peninsula, Newfoundland, yet it operates on Central European Time (mostly) and uses the Euro. It’s a geopolitical glitch that somehow works.
People get confused about what this place actually is. It’s not a colony. It’s a "collectivité d’outre-mer." Basically, that means it’s a self-governing part of France. If you live here, you vote in French presidential elections. You have a French passport. You probably care more about the results of the Ligue 1 football matches than the NHL scores happening just across the water. It’s a strange, beautiful, and occasionally frustrating place that defies every expectation of North American travel.
The Cod Given Right to Exist
To understand Saint Pierre et Miquelon, you have to talk about fish. Specifically, Atlantic cod. For centuries, this was the entire reason for the islands' existence. While the rest of the world was fighting over gold or spices, the French were obsessed with the "Grand Banks."
The history here isn't just a list of dates; it's a saga of being traded back and forth like a used car. Between 1713 and 1816, the islands changed hands between Britain and France several times. Every time the British took over, they expelled the French settlers. Every time the French got it back, the settlers sailed right back across the Atlantic to rebuild their wooden houses. That kind of stubbornness defines the local character.
Then came the 1992 cod moratorium.
It gutted the local economy. Overnight, the primary industry of the islands vanished because of overfishing and environmental shifts. Canada and France got into some pretty heated diplomatic spats over fishing rights—look up the "Cod War" of the late 80s if you want to see how tense things got. Today, the islands are trying to pivot. They’re looking at sustainable tourism and aquaculture, but the shadow of the cod era still hangs over the colorful harbor of Saint-Pierre.
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What Most People Get Wrong About Visiting
One big mistake: thinking you can just "pop over" easily.
Technically, you can take a ferry from Fortune, Newfoundland. The Le SPM Ferries service runs regularly, but the North Atlantic doesn't care about your vacation schedule. It’s rough. If the fog rolls in—and it usually does—you might be staying longer than you planned.
Also, the money situation. You need Euros. While some shops in Saint-Pierre might take Canadian dollars at a truly terrible exchange rate, you’re in France. Act like it. Use your card or hit an ATM (distributeur) as soon as you land.
- The Siesta is Real: Between noon and 2:00 PM, the town of Saint-Pierre basically shuts down. Don't expect to go shopping or run errands. The locals are eating lunch. It’s a long, multi-course affair. It’s civilized. If you’re hungry at 1:00 PM and haven't made a reservation, you’re eating a granola bar from your backpack.
- The Language: Yes, they speak French. No, it’s not Québécois. It’s much closer to the accent you’d hear in Normandy or Brittany. Most people in the tourism sector speak English, but starting with a "Bonjour" goes a long way.
- The Cars: You’ll see Renaults, Peugeots, and Citroëns that aren't sold anywhere else in North America. It’s a car nerd’s paradise.
The Prohibition Gold Mine
Here’s a fun bit of trivia that usually shocks people: Al Capone used Saint Pierre et Miquelon as a massive liquor warehouse.
During American Prohibition, the islands became a hub for "rum-running." Because they were French territory, US laws didn't apply. Huge concrete warehouses were built specifically to store French wine, champagne, and Canadian whisky before they were smuggled into the States. At one point, the islands were importing more alcohol than almost anywhere else on earth per capita.
You can still see the remnants of this era. The "Villa Cutty Sark," named after the whisky, is a local landmark. The islands didn't just survive during Prohibition; they thrived. It was a golden age of smuggling that funded much of the infrastructure you see today.
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Miquelon vs. Saint Pierre: The Great Divide
Most tourists spend all their time in Saint-Pierre. That’s where the boutiques are. That’s where the airport is. But Miquelon is where the soul of the archipelago hides.
Miquelon is huge compared to Saint-Pierre, but it's sparsely populated. It’s actually two islands—Miquelon and Langlade—connected by a 12-kilometer sand dune called an isthmus. Driving across that dune is one of the most surreal experiences in the North Atlantic. On one side, you have the crashing ocean; on the other, a calm lagoon.
In Miquelon-Langlade, you’ll find wild horses. Not "escaped farm horses," but semi-wild herds that roam the hills. You’ll find shipwrecks half-buried in the sand. It’s a place for hikers and people who want to feel small against the backdrop of nature. Saint-Pierre is a bustling French town; Miquelon is a wild, untamed frontier.
The Guillotine Incident
France is famous for the guillotine. It’s a grim part of their history. But did you know the only time a guillotine was ever used in North America was in Saint-Pierre?
In 1889, a man named Auguste Néel was convicted of murder. According to French law at the time, he had to be executed by guillotine. The problem was, the islands didn't have one. They had to ship a rusted, second-hand guillotine all the way from Martinique. The local executioner was actually a fellow prisoner who was promised a reduced sentence if he did the job.
The story inspired the 2000 film The Widow of Saint-Pierre. Today, you can see the actual guillotine at the Musée de l'Arche. It’s a chilling reminder that while this place looks like a postcard, it has a deep, sometimes dark, connection to the mainland's legal history.
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Getting There and Staying Sane
Logistics are the biggest hurdle.
If you’re flying, Air Saint-Pierre is your only option. They fly from Montreal, Halifax, St. John’s, and occasionally Paris (seasonally). These aren't big planes. They’re ATRs or smaller Cessnas.
When you land at Saint-Pierre Pointe-Blanche Airport, the customs process is surprisingly formal. Remember, you are entering the Schengen Area's sphere of influence, even if the rules are slightly modified for the territory.
Pro Tip: Pack for four seasons in one day. You might start the morning in a thick wool sweater because of the damp "brume" (fog), and by 2:00 PM, you’re in a t-shirt because the sun has finally burned through.
What to Actually Do
- L'Île-aux-Marins: Take the small boat from the harbor to this abandoned island. It’s a ghost town frozen in time. No cars. Just old wooden houses, a church, and a schoolhouse that serves as a museum. It’s hauntingly beautiful.
- The Food: Go to Les P'tits Graviers or Le Feu de Joie. Order the seafood. Specifically, look for "crêpes au sarrasin" (buckwheat crepes) or anything involving local scallops (noix de Saint-Jacques).
- Hiking Grand Colombier: It’s a steep climb, but the view of the puffin colonies is worth the sweat. The puffins here are surprisingly chill compared to the ones in more touristy parts of Iceland or Ireland.
Why It Matters in 2026
In a world that feels increasingly homogenized, Saint Pierre et Miquelon remains stubbornly itself. It hasn't turned into a "theme park" version of France. It’s a working-class community that happens to have incredible bakeries and a complex relationship with the sea.
The islands face real challenges. Climate change is a massive threat to the low-lying isthmus of Miquelon. The youth often leave for university in mainland France and don't always come back. There is a constant tension between preserving the past and finding a way to pay the bills in a post-cod world.
But for the traveler? It’s a breath of fresh air. It’s the chance to experience a "what if" scenario of history. What if France never really left? You find the answer in the taste of a butter-heavy pastry consumed while looking out at a Canadian coastline.
Actionable Next Steps
If you're actually planning to make the trek to this French outpost, don't just wing it.
- Check the Ferry Schedule Early: The Le SPM Ferries website is the holy grail. Book your vehicle spot months in advance if you’re driving from Newfoundland; they fill up faster than you’d think.
- Book Accommodations First: There are only a handful of hotels (like Nuits Saint-Pierre) and a few guesthouses. During the Francofolie festival or summer months, the islands hit capacity quickly.
- Get an International Data Plan: Your Canadian or US cell plan might treat this as "International Roaming" (France), which means $15 a day or more. Check if your provider includes French territories.
- Learn Five Phrases: Bonjour (Hello), Merci (Thank you), Une baguette, s'il vous plaît (One baguette, please), Où sont les toilettes? (Where is the bathroom?), and C'est délicieux (It’s delicious). Use them. It changes the vibe of your entire trip.