High heels are pain. Let's just be honest about that right out of the gate. You don't buy a pair of five-inch stilettos because you're planning a marathon or a trip to the grocery store. You buy them because of how they make you feel when you stand up. When it comes to Saint Laurent high heels, that feeling is usually a mix of lethal confidence and a very specific type of Parisian rock-n-roll edge that Anthony Vaccarello has mastered since taking the reins from Hedi Slimane.
The brand isn't just selling shoes; they’re selling a silhouette. It’s sharp. It’s thin. It’s often unapologetically precarious.
Whether you're looking at the gravity-defying Opyum or the chunky, reliable Tribute, these shoes have become symbols of a certain status. But are they actually worth the four-figure investment? Or are we all just collective victims of really good marketing and a shiny YSL logo?
The Opyum Architecture Problem
If you’ve spent any time on Instagram or at a high-end gala in the last five years, you’ve seen the Opyum. It is the shoe with the YSL logo as the heel. It looks like a structural engineering nightmare. Honestly, the first time I saw them, I assumed the heel would snap off the moment a human being of average weight stepped into them.
Surprisingly, they hold up.
The heel is crafted from metal, usually brass, and it's bolted into a steel plate within the sole. It's sturdy. But here is what people get wrong: they aren't "comfortable" just because they're well-made. The pitch of the foot in a 110mm Opyum pump is aggressive. You are basically standing on your tiptoes. Because the heel is a logo—meaning it’s thin in some places and wider in others—the weight distribution feels different than a traditional stiletto.
Users often report that the "sweet spot" for balance is slightly further forward than you’d expect. If you have a high arch, you might love them. If you have flat feet? God help you. It's a two-hour shoe, max.
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Why the Tribute Platform Refuses to Die
On the complete opposite end of the spectrum is the Saint Laurent Tribute. This shoe is a veteran. It was launched in 2004 under Stefano Pilati and, despite the fashion world's obsession with "quiet luxury" and "minimalism," the Tribute remains a top seller.
Why? Because it’s a workhorse.
The Tribute features a heavy-duty platform. In the world of high heels, a platform is a gift from the heavens. A 5-inch heel with a 1.5-inch platform means your foot only "feels" like it’s in a 3.5-inch shoe. It’s physics. The T-strap design also locks your foot in place, which prevents the "heels-clacking-against-the-pavement" sound and the inevitable blister that comes from your foot sliding forward.
- The Leather: Saint Laurent typically uses calfskin or lambskin. It’s soft, but it stretches.
- The Sole: It’s leather, so it’s slippery. If you’re buying these, the first thing you should do is take them to a cobbler and have a thin rubber "vibram" sole added to the bottom. It costs $30 and saves you from a literal faceplant.
- The Fit: They run small. Most people end up going up a half size, especially if they have a wider toe box.
The Anthony Vaccarello Era and the "Vibe" Shift
When Anthony Vaccarello took over, he leaned hard into the 1980s power-dressing aesthetic. Think Grace Jones meets a French socialite. This gave us the "Anja" and the "Anthony" pumps. These are much more understated than the Opyum.
The Anja is basically the perfect pointed-toe pump. It has a deep "V" vamp, which shows off a bit of "toe cleavage." Fashion critics like Cathy Horyn have often noted how Vaccarello uses these sharp lines to elongate the leg. It’s a trick of the eye. By lowering the front of the shoe, the leg appears to start lower, making you look six feet tall even if you're 5'4".
But let’s talk about the reality of the stiletto. The Saint Laurent high heel is famously thin. We’re talking "could get stuck in a sidewalk crack and ruin your night" thin.
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Material Science: Patent vs. Matte
When choosing a Saint Laurent heel, the material matters more than the color.
Patent leather is beautiful. It shines. It looks expensive. But it’s plastic-coated leather. It doesn’t breathe, and it doesn't stretch. If a patent leather pump is tight at the store, it will be tight forever.
Nappa leather, on the other hand, is like butter. It will mold to your foot over three or four wears. If you're actually planning to walk in these—say, across a marble lobby or through a restaurant—the Nappa or suede options are infinitely more forgiving.
Maintenance: The Part Nobody Talks About
You just dropped $1,200 on shoes. You expect them to stay perfect. They won't.
The heels on the Opyum are prone to chipping if you're not careful. Since it’s painted metal, hitting a curb can scrape the black or gold finish right off. And because it's a specific brand-specific shape, your local cobbler can't just swap the heel out for a generic one. You’d have to send them back to Saint Laurent, and that is a headache you don't want.
Then there's the "heel tap." That little plastic bit at the very bottom of the stiletto? It wears down. Fast. If you hear a "click-clack" that sounds like metal hitting the floor, stop wearing them immediately. If you wear down the plastic and start grinding the metal of the heel itself, the shoe is essentially totaled.
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The Resale Market Reality
If you’re worried about the investment, look at the data. Saint Laurent heels hold their value better than brands like Christian Louboutin or Jimmy Choo in some specific instances.
The Opyum and Tribute have high "sell-through" rates on platforms like The RealReal or Vestiaire Collective. People are always looking for them. However, if you have a "seasonal" color—like a neon pink or a leopard print—expect the value to tank. The classic black leather or "porcelain" shades are the only ones that truly act as a store of value.
How to Actually Wear Them Without Crying
Look, there is no such thing as a "comfortable" five-inch heel. It’s a myth. But you can make it tolerable.
- Sizing is everything. Don't be vain. If you’re usually a 38 but the 38.5 feels better, buy the 38.5. Feet swell at night. If you buy shoes in the morning that are "perfect," they will be torture devices by 10 PM.
- Tape your toes. There’s an old runway trick where you tape your third and fourth toes together (counting from the big toe). There’s a nerve there that causes the bulk of heel pain. Taping them reduces the pressure. It sounds crazy, but it works.
- Break them in with socks. Wear your new Saint Laurents around the house with thick wool socks for 20 minutes a day for a week. The heat and pressure will stretch the leather gently without giving you blisters.
Making the Final Call
Saint Laurent high heels are a statement of intent. They say you value aesthetics, history, and a certain kind of "cool-girl" armor over pure utilitarianism. They aren't for everyone. They aren't for every day.
If you want the most iconic look, get the Opyum. If you want a shoe you can actually dance in for four hours, get the Tribute platform. If you want a classic that will never go out of style and works for a board meeting or a funeral or a wedding, the Anja pump is the winner.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check your arch height: Use the "wet foot test" (step on a piece of paper with a wet foot). If you see a full footprint, you have flat feet—avoid the Opyum and stick to the Tribute.
- Invest in protection: Before the first wear, take your shoes to a professional cobbler. Ask for "sole protectors" and "heel taps." This will double the life of the shoe.
- Measure your foot in centimeters: Luxury sizing is inconsistent. Most Saint Laurent size charts use CM. Knowing your exact foot length is more accurate than "I'm a US 8."
- Store them properly: Never throw these in a pile at the bottom of a closet. The weight of other shoes can warp the thin stiletto. Use the dust bags they came with.
- Watch the pitch: Look at the side profile of the shoe. If the "slope" looks like a black diamond ski run, it will feel like one. Aim for a gradual curve if you aren't a seasoned heel wearer.