You’ve probably heard the rumors whispered in the humid common rooms of hostels in Cusco or over cheap beers in Santiago. They talk about a place in La Paz where the menu doesn't just list cocktails, but grams of high-purity cocaine delivered on a silver platter with a straw and a smile. It sounds like urban legend stuff. Honestly, most travelers think it's a myth until they find themselves in a cramped taxi zig-zagging through the steep, oxygen-deprived streets of the Bolivian capital at 2:00 AM. Route 36 Bolivia is very real. It is also completely illegal, incredibly transient, and perhaps the most controversial "tourist attraction" in South America.
But here is the thing: it isn’t a bar in the way you think of a bar.
There is no neon sign. No Google Maps pin will lead you to the front door. If you find a pin, it’s likely for a location that got raided or shut down three months ago. Route 36 is a "pop-up" lounge that moves locations every few weeks or months to stay one step ahead of the Fuerza Especial de Lucha Contra el Narcotráfico (FELCN). It exists in a legal gray area fueled by local corruption and a relentless demand from foreign backpackers who want to tick a very dangerous box off their bucket list.
How Route 36 Bolivia Actually Operates
Finding it is basically an initiation ritual. You don't just walk in. Usually, it starts with a taxi driver. Not just any driver, but the ones who linger outside the popular party hostels like Wild Rover or Loki. You ask for "Route 36," and if they know the current location, they’ll nod, tell you to hop in, and drive you to a nondescript warehouse or a basement in a residential neighborhood like Sopocachi or further out in El Alto.
The entry fee is usually around 50 Bolivianos, though inflation and the "gringo tax" make that fluctuate. Once you're inside, the vibe is oddly mundane. It looks like a mid-tier lounge from the early 2000s. Think blacklights, worn-out sofas, and a sound system pumping out generic European techno or Bob Marley remixes.
The menu is the kicker. While they sell overpriced Paceña beer and basic spirits, the main draw is the "product." As of the latest reports from travelers passing through La Paz in 2025 and early 2026, a gram of cocaine at Route 36 costs roughly 150 to 200 Bolivianos (about $22–$29 USD). It is served openly. People sit around low tables, chopping lines next to their empty beer bottles while waitstaff weave through the smoke-filled room. It’s surreal. It’s also deeply problematic.
The Legal Reality and the Corruption Loophole
Let's be clear: Cocaine is illegal in Bolivia. While the country allows for the traditional chewing of coca leaves and the use of coca tea (mate de coca) under Law 906, the manufacturing and sale of cocaine hydrochloride remain serious felonies. So how does Route 36 stay open?
💡 You might also like: Tiempo en East Hampton NY: What the Forecast Won't Tell You About Your Trip
It’s all about the money.
The bar reportedly pays massive bribes to local precinct commanders and influential figures. When the "heat" gets too high or a specific official isn't getting their cut, the bar is told to move. They pack up the sound system, the booze, and the inventory, and they disappear overnight. A few days later, they reappear four blocks away in a different empty building.
The neighborhood residents usually hate it. They see the stream of taxi cabs dropping off intoxicated foreigners at 4:00 AM and they know exactly what's happening. There have been numerous reports of neighbors petitioning the government to shut it down permanently, but the "business" is too lucrative for the people protecting it.
Why Travelers Risk It (And Why They Shouldn't)
South America is full of "narco-tourism," from Pablo Escobar tours in Medellín to San Pedro prison tours (which are now mostly defunct). Route 36 Bolivia is the apex of this. For many, it's about the story. They want to be the person at the pub back in London or Melbourne who can say, "Yeah, I went to a legal-ish coke bar in the Andes."
But the risks are heavy.
First, there is the physical safety aspect. You are in an unlicensed, unregulated basement in a city at 11,975 feet of elevation. Cocaine is a powerful stimulant that puts immense strain on the heart. When you combine that with the thin air of La Paz, you are asking for a cardiovascular emergency. Local hospitals are not exactly equipped for "gringo heart attacks" occurring in illegal drug dens.
📖 Related: Finding Your Way: What the Lake Placid Town Map Doesn’t Tell You
Then there’s the crime factor. Because the bar is illegal, you have zero protection. If you are robbed, assaulted, or scammed inside Route 36, you cannot go to the police. In fact, the police are the last people you want to see. There have been instances where police "raid" these spots just to shake down the tourists for massive bribes—sometimes thousands of dollars—under the threat of being sent to San Pedro prison.
The Ethical Quagmire of Narco-Tourism
We need to talk about the impact on Bolivia. While backpackers treat it like a novelty, the cocaine trade has devastated communities across the continent. By spending money at Route 36 Bolivia, tourists are directly funding the very cartels and corrupt systems that many claim to despise.
It’s a weirdly colonist vibe, right? Foreigners coming in to do something that would get a local person thrown in a dark cell for twenty years, all while laughing about how "cheap" it is.
Many veteran travelers in the region are now boycotting the place. They argue that the "cool factor" has worn off and been replaced by a realization that the bar is a parasite on the city. It brings crime to the neighborhoods it inhabits and reinforces the worst stereotypes about Bolivia.
What Happens If You Go?
If you decide to ignore the warnings and go anyway, here is the reality of the experience:
- The Paranoia: You will spend half the time looking at the door, wondering if this is the night the FELCN decides to make an example of everyone.
- The Quality: Despite the reputation, the "purity" is often exaggerated. It’s still a business, and they cut the product just like any street dealer would.
- The Atmosphere: It’s often depressing. It’s not a high-end club. It’s a room full of sweaty, wide-eyed tourists who have been awake for 48 hours.
Better Ways to Experience La Paz
Honestly, La Paz is one of the most vibrant, incredible cities on earth. It doesn't need an illegal drug bar to be interesting. If you want a "high," take the Mi Teleférico—the world's highest cable car system. The views from the Red or Silver lines as you crest the edge of El Alto are more intoxicating than anything you’ll find in a basement in Sopocachi.
👉 See also: Why Presidio La Bahia Goliad Is The Most Intense History Trip In Texas
Check out the Witches' Market (Mercado de las Brujas). You can see dried llama fetuses and buy talismans for Pachamama. It's weird, it's authentic, and it's not funding a criminal enterprise. Or go to a Cholita Wrestling match. Seeing these indigenous women in traditional dress performing flying headbutts in a ring is a peak Bolivian experience that actually supports local culture.
Actionable Insights for the Responsible Traveler
If you are currently in La Paz or planning a trip, keep these points in mind regarding the Route 36 phenomenon:
1. Verify the Current Safety Climate
The political situation in Bolivia can shift rapidly. What was a "protected" bar last week could be the target of a federal crackdown this week. Check recent forums like Reddit’s r/travel or specific South America backpacking groups, but take everything with a grain of salt.
2. Understand the Altitude Impact
If you are experimenting with any stimulants in La Paz, your heart rate will skyrocket. The lack of oxygen means your body is already working 20% harder just to keep you alive. Mixing this with cocaine is a recipe for a medical evacuation.
3. Respect Local Laws
Just because a taxi driver says it’s okay doesn't mean the Bolivian judicial system agrees. If you are caught with drugs outside of the "protected" zone of the bar, you are subject to Law 1008, which is notoriously harsh. Foreigners do end up in Bolivian prisons, and they are not places you want to visit.
4. Consider the Economic Footprint
Ask yourself where your money is going. If you want to support the local economy, spend those Bolivianos on a high-end meal at Gustu (one of the best restaurants in the world) or on local textiles.
Route 36 Bolivia remains a dark curiosity of the travel world. It is a place that exists because of a perfect storm of corruption, tourism demand, and a lack of oversight. While it may provide a "crazy story" for some, the reality is often much grimmer, involving exploited locals and significant personal risk for the travelers involved. The most adventurous thing you can do in La Paz isn't sitting in a dark room—it's getting out into the mountains and seeing the country for what it truly is, beyond the smoke and mirrors of the underground scene.
Next Steps for Your Trip:
If you're looking for an adrenaline rush that won't land you in a jail cell, book a mountain biking tour down the North Yungas Road (Death Road). It’s legally operated, supports local guides, and provides a much better view than a basement wall. Stay in the Sopocachi district for the best nightlife that doesn't involve illegal substances, and always keep your wits about you when taking unbranded taxis late at night.