If you’ve ever stood on the corner of 5th and Main in the heart of the Historic Core, you’ve seen them. Two massive, twin-like buildings looming over the intersection, topped with those iconic neon heart signs. That's the Rosslyn Hotel downtown LA, or at least, the version of it that survived the 20th century.
Most people just snap a photo of the "Million Dollar Hotel" sign and keep walking toward a trendy bar. They think it's just another decaying relic. Honestly, they’re missing the weirdest, most fascinating parts of the story.
This isn't just one hotel. It's a tale of two buildings, a secret marble tunnel, and a transformation from the "Fireproof" pinnacle of luxury to a vital hub for supportive housing. You’ve probably heard of the Biltmore, but in 1923, the Rosslyn was the real king of the West Coast.
The Hart Brothers and the "Million Dollar" Gamble
Back in 1914, Downtown Los Angeles was the only place that mattered. The Hart brothers, George and Dwight, were basically hospitality royalty. They grew up as bellhops at the old Natick House before deciding to build their own empire.
They opened the "New" Rosslyn Hotel on the northwest corner of 5th and Main. It cost a staggering $1 million. In 1914, that was an insane amount of money, so they did what any savvy businessman would do: they put it on a giant sign on the roof.
Why the hearts?
The neon signs feature a heart shape for a reason that is surprisingly wholesome. It wasn't about romance. It was a play on their last name: Hart. It became a beacon for travelers arriving at the nearby train stations.
✨ Don't miss: Taking the Ferry to Williamsburg Brooklyn: What Most People Get Wrong
The hotel was a Beaux-Arts masterpiece designed by John Parkinson. If that name sounds familiar, it should. He’s the same guy who gave us Union Station and City Hall. The original lobby was dripping in marble, mahogany, and art glass. It even had a massive five-panel mural by Einar Petersen that depicted the history of California.
By 1923, the brothers realized they needed more room. Instead of just adding a wing, they built a nearly identical twin across the street—the Rosslyn Annex.
The Secret Subway You Can’t Use
The most "LA" thing about the Rosslyn Hotel is the tunnel. Because the two buildings were on opposite sides of 5th Street, the Harts didn't want their high-society guests dodging 1920s traffic or—heaven forbid—interacting with the street-level elements too much.
They built a 145-foot marble-lined underground tunnel connecting the two basements.
It wasn't some dark, damp sewer pipe. It was a "subway" sheathed in grey Tennessee marble. Guests could wander from the main dining room in the 1914 building to the guest rooms in the 1923 annex without ever stepping outside. Portions of it still exist today, though it's mostly a ghost of its former self, closed off to the public and tucked away behind locked basement doors.
🔗 Read more: Lava Beds National Monument: What Most People Get Wrong About California's Volcanic Underworld
When the Neon Went Dark
The decline wasn't sudden. It was a slow, agonizing crawl that mirrored the rest of Downtown LA after World War II. As the "center" of the city shifted west toward the Miracle Mile and later the suburbs, the grand hotels of Main Street lost their luster.
By the 1950s, the "Million Dollar Hotel" was looking a bit cheap. The Harts were gone. The buildings were sold to a syndicate including Conrad Hilton. Eventually, they became Single Room Occupancy (SRO) hotels.
The 1914 building was renamed the Frontier Hotel in the late 70s. It became a bit of a hub for the early gritty art scene, but the conditions were rough. You might recognize the rooftop from U2’s "Where the Streets Have No Name" video or the Wim Wenders film The Million Dollar Hotel (which Bono actually co-wrote after hanging out there).
It was a place for people on the fringes. It was beautiful, but it was broken.
The Modern Reality: Two Different Paths
If you look at the Rosslyn Hotel downtown LA today, you’re looking at two very different legal entities and functions.
💡 You might also like: Road Conditions I40 Tennessee: What You Need to Know Before Hitting the Asphalt
- Rosslyn Lofts (The 1914 Building): Located at 451 S. Main St. This one went through a major "lofted" conversion around 2006. It’s a mix now. The top floors are market-rate lofts with those high ceilings and concrete floors people pay a premium for. The lower floors, however, are still dedicated to low-income housing.
- Rosslyn Hotel Apartments (The 1923 Annex): Located at 112 W. 5th St. This is the building that most people call "The Rosslyn" now. In 2015, the SRO Housing Corporation finished a massive $50+ million renovation.
They didn't just slap a coat of paint on it. They surgically reinforced the structure to meet earthquake codes without ruining the historic Beaux-Arts details. They restored the lobby to its 1920s glory, including that spectacular skylight.
Today, the Annex provides 264 units of permanent supportive housing. It’s specifically for formerly homeless veterans and low-income individuals dealing with mental health challenges. It’s a pretty incredible second act for a building that was once the playground of the wealthy.
Practical Insights for the Modern Explorer
You can’t just walk in and ask for a room like it’s 1925. But you can still appreciate it.
- Look Up: The neon signs were restored and still light up at night. They are some of the most photographed landmarks in the Historic Core.
- The Architecture: Stand at the corner of 5th and Main. Compare the two buildings. Parkinson’s use of terra cotta and classical detailing is still sharp if you look past the grit.
- The Neighborhood: You’re in the Historic Core. Walk a block over to the Last Bookstore or the Regent Theatre. The Rosslyn is the anchor of this area’s identity.
- Filming: The second floor of the Annex is often used for filming. If you see a bunch of production trucks, chances are they’re shooting a period piece or a gritty noir inside those marble hallways.
The Rosslyn isn't a "hidden gem" anymore; it’s a survivor. It represents the weird, messy, beautiful evolution of Los Angeles—a place where million-dollar dreams eventually turned into much-needed homes for the people who need them most.
How to see the Rosslyn today
- Photography: The best angle for the signs is from the southeast corner of 5th and Main during the "blue hour" just after sunset.
- Respect the Space: Remember that the Annex is a private residential building for vulnerable populations. The lobby is beautiful, but it is a home, not a tourist attraction.
- Historic Tours: Keep an eye on the LA Conservancy. They occasionally run walking tours of the Historic Core that include deep dives into Parkinson’s work and the interior history of these specific buildings.
Next Steps for Your Downtown Exploration
If you're fascinated by the architecture of the Rosslyn, you should head three blocks south to the Eastern Columbia Building. It’s the turquoise Art Deco masterpiece that serves as the visual bookend to the Historic Core. Afterward, grab a coffee at the Grand Central Market to see how 1917 infrastructure handles 2026 crowds.