You can still smell it if you close your eyes near the corner of Riopelle and Erskine. Garlic. Red sauce. Decades of cigar smoke and expensive perfume. For over a century, Roma Cafe Detroit MI wasn't just a restaurant; it was a clubhouse for the people who actually ran the city. If these walls could talk, they wouldn't just whisper; they’d probably get someone subpoenaed.
It started in 1890. Think about that for a second. When Roma Cafe opened its doors, the Ford Motor Company didn't even exist. Detroit was a city of carriages and cobblestones. Originally, it was a boarding house for Italian immigrants working at the nearby Eastern Market. They needed a place to sleep and, more importantly, a place to eat like they were back in the old country. Mrs. Marazza, the original owner, started serving meals to the boarders, and basically, a legend was born by accident.
Most people today get the timeline confused. They think the "Roma" they see now—Amore da Roma—is the exact same entity. It’s not. But it is. It's complicated, kinda like most things in Detroit history.
The Sclafani Era and the Art of the Deal
In 1919, a guy named Morris Sclafani took over. This is where the Roma Cafe we recognize today really took flight. For most of its life, the restaurant was a Sclafani family production. Hector Sclafani eventually took the reins, and he became the face of Detroit’s "Power Lunch."
You’d walk in and see a judge sitting next to a Teamster, who was sitting next to a guy who definitely worked for the "outfit." It was neutral ground. Honestly, the atmosphere was thick with a specific kind of old-school Detroit energy that you just can't manufacture in a modern bistro. You had the red velvet, the dark wood, and waiters who had been there so long they knew your grandfather’s favorite vintage.
The menu was unapologetically "Italian-American." We aren't talking about the hyper-authentic, thin-crust Neapolitan stuff people obsess over now. This was heavy. It was veal scaloppine, hearty lasagna, and that iconic minestrone soup. It was the kind of food that demanded a nap afterward. People didn't go there for a light salad; they went there to be taken care of.
Why Roma Cafe Detroit MI Actually Closed (and Reopened)
Everything changed in 2017. It hit the city like a ton of bricks when Janet Sclafani Belcoure announced the closure. After 127 years, the oldest restaurant in Detroit was shutting its doors.
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People panicked.
There were a lot of rumors. Some thought the building was falling apart, others figured the family just wanted out. In reality, it was a bit of both. Running a century-old building in a city that’s rapidly gentrifying is a massive headache. Taxes go up, pipes burst, and the physical toll of managing a landmark is exhausting. For a few months, the corner of Eastern Market felt empty. It felt like the soul had been ripped out of the district.
But then Guy Pelino stepped in.
He was a long-time chef at Roma, and he couldn't let it die. He reopened the space as Amore da Roma. Now, this is where the nuance comes in. If you're looking for "Roma Cafe Detroit MI" on a modern map, you'll find Amore. He kept the bones. He kept the recipes. He even kept a lot of the staff. It was a massive gamble. Rebranding a legend is usually a recipe for disaster, but he managed to bridge the gap between "museum piece" and "working restaurant."
What stayed the same?
The veal. Thank god, the veal. And the sense of history. You can still feel the ghosts of 1920s Detroit when you sit in those booths. The relationship with Eastern Market remains the heartbeat of the kitchen. Since they are literally steps away from the freshest produce in the Midwest, the chefs don't have to look far for ingredients.
What changed?
The name, obviously. And a bit of the stuffiness. The old Roma had a dress code that was strictly enforced for a long time. While you still probably shouldn't show up in a gym tank top, the vibe is a bit more "modern Detroit"—welcoming, a little gritty, but still undeniably classy.
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The Architecture of a Landmark
The building itself is a character. Located at 3401 Riopelle St, it’s a three-story brick structure that has survived fires, riots, depressions, and the total collapse of the American auto industry. It stands as a testament to Italian-American influence in the city.
Inside, the layout is a maze. Small dining rooms, a classic bar area, and that staircase. It feels like a set from a Coppola movie. One of the coolest things about the location is its proximity to the Dequindre Cut. Back in the day, that was a sunken railway line. Now, it's a greenway for bikers and runners. Seeing the contrast between the 19th-century brickwork of the cafe and the modern graffiti art of the Cut is basically Detroit in a nutshell.
Real Talk: Is the Food Actually Good or Just Nostalgic?
Let's be real for a minute. When a place is "the oldest" anything, people tend to grade it on a curve. They forgive a soggy noodle because "my dad proposed here."
But here’s the thing: the kitchen at Amore da Roma (the successor to the Roma Cafe legacy) actually holds its own. They aren't trying to reinvent the wheel. They are making Sunday Dinner for people who don't have time to cook it.
- The Minestrone: It’s famous for a reason. It’s thick, salty, and tastes like it’s been simmering since the Eisenhower administration.
- The Bread: Classic Italian loaves with real butter. Simple, but they don't skimp.
- The Pasta: It’s often over-sauced by modern "minimalist" standards, but that’s the point. It’s comfort food.
If you go in expecting a Michelin-star experience with foam and tweezers, you're in the wrong place. Go there when you want to feel like a boss from 1954. Go there when you want to hear stories about the Purple Gang.
Navigating the Eastern Market Scene
If you’re planning a visit to the site of the former Roma Cafe Detroit MI, you have to do it right. You don't just go for dinner and leave.
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Eastern Market is a chaotic, beautiful mess on Saturdays. Thousands of people, live music, and the smell of roasting coffee. The cafe sits on the edge of this madness. The move is to do your shopping early, drop your bags in the car, and then head over for a late lunch.
Parking is a nightmare. Honestly, just prepare to walk a few blocks. But walking through the market district is part of the experience. You'll pass specialty spice shops and butcheries that have been there almost as long as the cafe itself.
The Cultural Impact of the Sclafani Legacy
You can’t talk about Roma Cafe without mentioning the Sclafani family's impact on Detroit’s social fabric. They weren't just restaurant owners; they were curators of the city's elite.
In the mid-20th century, if you wanted to get a bill passed in Lansing or a contract signed in the city, you did it over a plate of pasta at Roma. Hector Sclafani was known for his "table touches." He knew everyone’s name. He knew who was divorcing whom, and who was about to run for office. This kind of "institutional knowledge" is what's missing from most modern dining.
When the original Roma Cafe closed, Detroit lost more than a restaurant. It lost a library of local history. Thankfully, the transition to Amore da Roma preserved the physical space, which is half the battle.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
Don't just show up and expect a table on a busy Saturday night. If you want to experience this slice of Detroit history correctly, follow this blueprint:
- Check the Hours: Amore da Roma (the current incarnation) has different hours than the old cafe. They are often closed on Sundays and have specific lunch breaks during the week. Check their official site before you drive down.
- Ask for the History: The staff loves to talk. If it’s not too busy, ask about the "Secret Room" or the history of the bar. Many of the people working there have links to the original Roma Cafe Detroit MI era.
- Explore the Market: Make it a full day. Visit Bert’s Entertainment Complex nearby for some jazz and BBQ, then head to the cafe for the main course.
- Order the Classics: Skip the trendy specials. Go for the Lasagna or the Veal Marsala. These are the recipes that kept the lights on for 130 years.
- Park Strategically: Look for spots further down Erskine or Riopelle away from the main sheds if it’s a market day. It's easier to walk ten minutes than to circle for forty.
Detroit is a city that often tears down its past to build the future. The fact that the building at Riopelle and Erskine still serves Italian food is a minor miracle. Whether you call it Roma or Amore, it’s the heartbeat of the neighborhood. Go eat there. Seriously. Support the places that survived when everything else was crumbling. That's how you keep the real Detroit alive.