You’re walking off the sand at 92nd Street in Rockaway Beach, salt in your hair, and you’re starving. Not just "granola bar" hungry, but the kind of hunger that only a day of fighting Atlantic waves can produce. If you ask a local where to go, they aren't pointing you toward a generic boardwalk stand. They’re pointing you toward Roccos of Roc Beach.
It’s a vibe.
Honestly, finding a place that manages to be a legitimate Italian bakery, a coal-fired pizza joint, and a full-blown restaurant without losing its soul is rare. Most places try to do too much and end up failing at everything. Rocco’s somehow dodges that trap. It feels like a neighborhood secret that accidentally got famous, yet it still keeps that "if you know, you know" energy.
The Coal-Fired Truth About Roccos of Roc Beach
Let’s talk about the oven. In the world of pizza, "coal-fired" isn't just a marketing buzzword; it’s a specific chemistry of heat. Most ovens tap out around $700^\circ$F or $800^\circ$F. A coal oven? It’s pushing $1000^\circ$F. This matters because it creates that specific char—the "leopard spotting"—that you just can't get from a standard deck oven or even most wood-fired setups.
At Roccos of Roc Beach, the crust is the star. It’s thin. It’s crispy. It has that slight bitter hit from the char that balances out a sweet tomato sauce.
If you’re a purist, you go for the Margherita. But people who actually eat here regularly know the move is often the white pies or something with a bit of a kick. They don't skimp on the ingredients. We’re talking fresh mozzarella, not that shredded plastic stuff that comes in a bag. You can taste the difference in the moisture content alone.
It’s More Than Just a Pizza Place
A lot of people stumble into Rocco’s thinking it’s just a slice shop. Wrong.
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Walk through the door and you’re hit with the smell of espresso and sfogliatella. It functions as a classic Italian bakery in a way that feels very "Old School Brooklyn" despite being out on the peninsula. The pastry case is dangerous. You go in for a coffee and leave with a box of rainbow cookies and a lobster tail pastry that weighs about three pounds.
The transition from morning bakery to evening dinner spot is seamless. You'll see surfers in hoodies grabbing lattes at 10:00 AM, and by 7:00 PM, those same tables are filled with families sharing massive plates of pasta. It’s a community hub.
What to Actually Order (The Local List)
Don't overcomplicate it.
- The Coal-Fired Wings: Most people ignore wings at an Italian place. Don't be that person. These are roasted in the high-heat oven with onions and rosemary. They aren't deep-fried. They are juicy, smoky, and arguably better than the pizza.
- The Rice Balls (Arancini): These are dense, flavorful, and exactly what you want after a beer.
- The Pastries: Seriously. If they have the cannoli shells ready, get them filled to order. Never buy a pre-filled cannoli; the shell gets soggy. Rocco’s knows this.
- Rigatoni alla Vodka: It’s a classic for a reason. Their sauce has a depth that suggests they’re actually letting the onions caramelize and the vodka cook off properly.
Why the Location at 92nd Street Matters
Location is everything in the Rockaways. Roccos of Roc Beach sits at 115-10 Rockaway Beach Blvd. It’s a strategic spot. You’re far enough from the chaotic overcrowding of the 116th Street transit hub to feel some breathing room, but close enough to the surf beaches to make it a convenient walk.
The "Roc Beach" branding isn't just some clever name. It reflects the gritty, resilient, and increasingly trendy identity of the area. Rockaway has changed a lot since Hurricane Sandy. The boardwalk is newer, the crowds are younger, and the food scene has exploded. Rocco’s represents the bridge between the "Old Rockaway"—tough, Irish-Italian, local-centric—and the "New Rockaway" that appreciates a craft cocktail and a perfectly fermented sourdough crust.
The Nuance of the Atmosphere
Is it fancy? Sorta. Is it casual? Definitely.
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You can show up in flip-flops and not feel out of place, but the interior is nice enough for a legitimate date night. The brickwork and the open kitchen give it an industrial warmth. It’s loud. It’s busy. If you’re looking for a quiet, whispered dinner, this might not be your spot on a Saturday night. But if you want to feel the energy of a neighborhood that loves its food, it’s perfect.
One thing people often get wrong is the wait time. Because they use a coal-fired oven, things move fast once the pizza is in the oven, but the queue can get backed up during peak summer hours. You have to be patient. Or better yet, grab a drink and accept that you're on "beach time."
Acknowledging the Competition
Look, the Rockaways have some heavy hitters. You’ve got Whit’s End. You’ve got the boardwalk concessions. You’ve got the local deli staples.
What sets Roccos of Roc Beach apart is the consistency. While some of the more "artisan" spots in the area can be temperamental with their hours or their menus, Rocco’s feels like a machine. They are reliable. They understand that at the end of the day, people want high-quality comfort food served by people who know the neighborhood.
There's a specific pride in the way they handle their dough. It’s not just about the heat; it’s about the hydration and the proofing time. You can tell they aren't rushing the process. The crumb of the bread in their sandwiches has the right pull—it’s chewy without being tough.
The Practical Side of Visiting
Parking in the Rockaways is a nightmare. Let's just be honest about that. If you're driving in from Brooklyn or Queens, give yourself an extra 20 minutes to circle the blocks near 92nd. Or, do the smart thing and take the A train or the NYC Ferry. The walk from the ferry landing is pleasant, and it builds up an appetite.
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Prices are fair. You aren't paying Manhattan prices, but you aren't paying 99-cent slice prices either. You’re paying for the coal, the quality of the cheese, and the fact that someone spent all night baking bread.
Making the Most of Your Trip
If you want the "Pro" experience at Roccos of Roc Beach, don't just go for dinner.
Start your day there. Get a coffee and a pastry. Head to the beach. Come back for an early dinner around 4:00 PM to beat the rush of the people coming off the sand at sunset. This is the sweet spot. You get the best service, the freshest pies, and you can still catch the light over the bay as you head home.
- Check the specials: They often have seasonal pastas or seafood dishes that aren't on the main menu.
- Order a whole pie: While slices are great, the coal-oven magic really happens on a fresh, whole pie that hasn't been sitting.
- Don't skip the bakery: Even if you're full, get a box of cookies for the ride home. You'll thank yourself when you're stuck in traffic on the Cross Bay Bridge.
- Respect the staff: It’s a local spot. Being a "regular" starts with being a decent human being to the people behind the counter.
Roccos of Roc Beach manages to capture the specific soul of the Rockaways—it’s a bit salty, very authentic, and deeply satisfying. It’s the kind of place that makes you want to move closer to the beach, just so you can make it your "usual" spot.
Next Steps for Your Visit
To ensure the best experience, aim for a mid-week visit if you want to avoid the heavy weekend crowds. Always call ahead if you have a large party, as the dining room fills up fast. If you're planning a beach day, consider placing a takeout order via their website about 30 minutes before you're ready to leave the sand—this lets you skip the wait and head straight for the food while it's hot. Check their social media for daily bakery specials, as certain popular items like their specialty cakes or holiday-specific pastries sell out by noon.