Ithaca is famously "gorges," but honestly, most people just pull into the first parking lot they see and call it a day. They hit the lower falls, take a selfie, maybe dip their toes in the water if it's July, and head back to town for a burger. They’re missing out. Robert H. Treman State Park is way more than just a big swimming hole with a diving board. It’s a 1,100-acre masterclass in geology, 19th-century industrial grit, and some of the most punishing stone staircases you’ll ever love.
If you really want to see this place, you have to get into Enfield Glen. That’s the rugged gorge where the magic actually happens. Most folks don't realize that the park used to be a bustling little hamlet called Enfield Falls. Beneath the dirt near the upper entrance, there are literally foundations of old homes and a hotel. Today, the only major survivor is the 1839 Grist Mill, which still looks like it could start grinding buckwheat tomorrow.
The Lucifer Falls Reality Check
You’ve probably seen the photos. A massive, 115-foot veil of water crashing down a jagged cliff face, framed by perfectly placed stone walls. That’s Lucifer Falls. It’s the crown jewel of Robert H. Treman State Park, but seeing it the right way takes a bit of strategy.
Don't just walk to the overlook and leave.
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Take the Gorge Trail. It’s about 2.1 miles of "strenuous" effort, and I’m not using that word lightly. You’re going to be climbing. A lot. There's one stretch with exactly 100 stone steps, followed almost immediately by another 71. Your quads will scream, but the payoff is standing on a stone bridge looking into a flume so narrow it feels like the rock walls are whispering.
The cool thing about the Gorge Trail is how the scenery shifts. One minute you’re in a wide, sunny valley, and the next, the walls close in, the air drops ten degrees, and you’re surrounded by dripping moss and ancient shale. It feels prehistoric. You half expect a pterodactyl to fly over the rim.
Swimming at the Base of a Waterfall
Let’s talk about the swimming, because it’s probably the most iconic thing about this park. The "Lower Falls" (officially Enfield Falls) is basically a natural pool at the base of a 30-foot cascade. It’s one of the few places in the Finger Lakes where you can legally swim under a waterfall with a lifeguard watching your back.
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It’s cold. Seriously cold.
Even in August, that water is bracing. It’s fed by springs and runoff that haven't seen the sun in a long time. There's a diving board built right into the rock area, which feels kinda retro and awesome. Most people crowd this area, especially on weekends. If you want any semblance of peace, get there at 8:00 AM. By noon, it’s a zoo of inflatables and screaming kids.
Practical Survival Tips for Your Visit
- Footwear matters: Do not—I repeat, do not—try to hike the Gorge Trail in flip-flops. You’ll see people doing it. You’ll also see them slipping on wet shale and looking miserable. Wear actual boots or trail runners.
- The "Easy" Way: If you aren't feeling the 500-foot elevation gain, park at the Upper Entrance (off Route 327). You can walk to the Lucifer Falls overlook with way less climbing than if you started from the bottom.
- The Hidden Fossils: If you look closely at the flat stones near the creek or the gorge walls, you can find brachiopods and crinoids. This whole area was an inland sea millions of years ago. Just remember: look, don't take. Removing anything from the park is a no-go.
- Winter Closures: The Gorge Trail usually closes in late autumn because of ice and falling rocks. They don't reopen it until late May or even June, after crews have gone in to scale the cliffs and knock down loose stones. Always check the official NY State Parks site before you drive out.
Camping and Staying Over
If you want to stay longer, the park has a pretty decent setup. There are 72 campsites and 14 cabins. The cabins are basic—one room, no bathroom inside—but they beat sleeping on the ground if it rains. It’s basically "glamping" for people who still like the smell of woodsmoke and don't mind a short walk to the bathhouse.
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Reservations through Reserve America are a must. These spots go fast, sometimes months in advance. The campsites are split between those with electric hookups for RVs and "no utility" sites for the tent crowd. It’s a great home base if you’re planning to hit Buttermilk Falls or Taughannock on the same trip.
What Most People Get Wrong About Treman
People often confuse Robert H. Treman State Park with Buttermilk Falls because they’re so close to each other. Buttermilk is more vertical and compact. Treman is expansive and feels more "wild."
Another misconception is that it’s just for summer. Honestly? Late October is the best time to visit. The crowds are gone, the "hellish" climb up to Lucifer Falls is much easier when it’s 50 degrees out, and the yellow maples against the dark gorge walls are incredible.
The park's namesake, Robert H. Treman, was an Ithaca banker and Cornell Trustee who bought up the old mill and the surrounding land to save it from development. He donated it to the state in 1920. Without him, this would probably be a private resort or a bunch of condos by now. Instead, it’s a public treasure that hasn't changed much in a century.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Trip
- Download a Map: Cell service is spotty at best once you descend into the glen. Download the Ithaca Trails map or a PDF of the park layout before you lose the signal.
- Pack a Picnic: There are BBQ grills near the lower swimming area. Grab some local salt potatoes and Hoffman hots in town before you head out.
- Check the Water Flow: If it’s been a massive drought, the falls can turn into a trickle. Conversely, after a heavy rain, the swimming area might be closed for safety. A quick peek at recent Instagram geotags can tell you exactly what the water looks like today.
- Gear Up: Bring water shoes with grip if you plan on swimming. The "beach" area is mostly pebbles and the rock shelf under the water is notoriously slippery.