Honestly, if you just drive the loop, you’ve missed it. Most people treat the Ring of Kerry Ireland like a checklist. They start in Killarney, follow the swarm of tour buses counter-clockwise, and snap the same photo of Ladies View that three million other people have on their phones.
It’s fine. It’s pretty. But it’s not the soul of the place.
To actually "do" the Ring of Kerry in 2026, you have to be willing to get a little lost. You need to ignore the GPS when it screams at you to stay on the N70. The real magic happens in the "boreens"—those tiny, narrow roads where sheep have the right of way and your rental car’s sensors will probably beep incessantly.
The Directional Dilemma: Clockwise vs. The Crowd
There is a massive debate about which way to drive. Conventional wisdom says go counter-clockwise. Why? Because the massive tour coaches are legally required to go that way to avoid getting stuck on the narrow bits. If you follow them, you aren’t staring down the grill of a 50-seater bus on a hairpin turn.
But here is the secret: go clockwise.
Yeah, you’ll have to pull over into a "passing place" a few times to let a bus squeeze by. Big deal. By going clockwise (starting toward Kenmare), you are moving against the grain. When the crowds are at Muckross House in the morning, you’re at the Skellig Ring. When they reach Waterville for lunch, you’re already heading toward the hidden stone forts of Cahersiveen. Plus, your passenger is on the ocean side of the road. The views are better. Simple as that.
Beyond the N70: The Skellig Ring Detour
If you only stay on the main road, you miss the Skellig Ring. This is a shorter 18km loop off the main track near Waterville and Valentia Island. It is too narrow for the big buses, which makes it a sanctuary for independent travelers.
Why you can't skip Portmagee
Portmagee is a tiny fishing village that looks like a movie set. Because it was. The cast of Star Wars basically lived here while filming on Skellig Michael. If you want to see the jagged peaks of Skellig Michael—that 6th-century monastic rock jutting out of the Atlantic—this is your base.
- The Kerry Cliffs: People obsess over the Cliffs of Moher. Don't get me wrong, they're great. But the Kerry Cliffs are right here, they’re arguably more rugged, and they don't have the Disneyland-style gift shops. On a clear day, you can see the Puffin Islands.
- Skellig Chocolate: It’s Ireland’s only open-plan chocolate factory. You can literally watch them pour the ganache while you sample sea-salt truffles. It’s a sugar rush with an ocean view.
- Valentia Island: Take the bridge from Portmagee or the ferry from Renard. Go to the Tetrapod Trackway. You’re looking at footprints from 385 million years ago. It’s some of the oldest evidence of four-legged life on land. Just sitting there. In the rain.
The "Tourist Traps" That Are Actually Worth It
We all want to be "travelers," not "tourists," but some things are famous for a reason.
Killarney National Park is 26,000 acres of ridiculous beauty. You’ll see red deer—the only indigenous herd left in Ireland. They’ve been here since the Neolithic period. If you’re feeling fancy, Muckross House is cool, but the real win is the Gap of Dunloe.
Skip the car. Rent a bike or take a "pony and trap" (a horse-drawn carriage). The Gap is a narrow mountain pass carved by glaciers. It feels ancient. It feels like the earth just split open to let you through. There is a spot called the Wishing Bridge. Local lore says wishes made there come true. It’s a bit "twee," but hey, why risk it? Make the wish.
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Stone Forts and Silent History
Most people drive right past the Staigue Fort. That’s a mistake. It’s an Iron Age dry-stone fort, meaning no mortar was used. It’s just rocks stacked on rocks, holding steady for 2,000 years.
Then there’s Cahergal and Leacanabuaile near Cahersiveen. These are even more impressive because you can actually climb the internal stone stairs. You stand on top of these massive circular walls and look out at the Atlantic, and you realize that someone sat in this exact spot a millennium ago, watching for Viking ships.
Practical Realities for 2026
Let’s talk logistics. Ireland is expensive, and Kerry is the crown jewel, so it isn't getting cheaper.
- The Weather: It will rain. Then it will be sunny. Then it will be misty. Then it will rain again. All in the span of twenty minutes. Layers aren't a suggestion; they are a survival strategy.
- Driving: If you aren't used to manual (stick shift), pay the extra for an automatic. The roads are winding, and the last thing you want to do is stall on a 10% grade with a sheep staring at you.
- Connectivity: 5G is decent in towns like Kenmare and Killarney, but in the mountain passes? Forget it. Download your maps for offline use.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Trip
Stop planning and start doing. If you're heading to the Ring of Kerry Ireland, here is exactly how to structure the next 48 hours of your planning phase:
- Book the Skellig Landing Tour now: If you want to actually step foot on Skellig Michael, tickets sell out months in advance for the May–September season. Use the official Portmagee boat operators.
- Pick a "Base" town: Don't stay in a different B&B every night. It’s exhausting. Pick Kenmare (foodie heaven) or Cahersiveen (rugged and local) and stay for three days.
- Check the Puck Fair dates: If you're visiting in August, Killorglin hosts a festival where they crown a wild mountain goat as king. No, I am not joking. It’s one of Ireland’s oldest traditions.
The Ring isn't a race. If you find a pub in Sneem where the Guinness is perfect and someone starts playing a fiddle, stay there. The scenery will still be there tomorrow. The moment won't.