You’ve seen them. Those massive, almost aggressive silhouettes that look like they belonged to a cartoon giant or a gothic architect from the future. Some call them "clown shoes," while others treat them like religious artifacts. Honestly, if you’re looking at Rick Owens high top sneakers, you’re either ready to change your entire wardrobe or you're deeply confused about why anyone would pay a thousand dollars for what looks like a Converse on steroids.
There is no middle ground here. Rick Owens doesn't do middle ground.
The "Monster Truck" Philosophy
Rick Owens famously said he wanted to make "monster trucks for his feet." He wasn't joking. When he first dropped the "Dunk" in the mid-2000s, it wasn't about being a sneakerhead. Rick actually hated sneakers. He thought they were too "normal" and boring. So, he took the DNA of the Nike Dunk, the Puma stripe, and Adidas stitching, and he basically mutated them.
The result was a shoe so similar to Nike’s IP that they allegedly sent a cease-and-desist. Whether that’s a legendary fashion myth or a cold legal reality, it worked. The "Dunk" was pulled, and the Geobasket was born. It had a new, triangular side panel and an even more exaggerated tongue. It became the definitive Rick Owens high top sneaker.
Why the Ramone Isn't Just a "Chuck Taylor"
Then you have the Ramones. You’ll hear people say, "Why not just buy Converse?"
Here is why.
The Rick Owens Ramones—named after the punk band, obviously—are about proportions. They have a massive, bulbous rubber toe cap and a serrated "shark tooth" sole. They’re made in Italy from heavy-duty calf leather or thick waxed canvas (the DRKSHDW version). When you wear them, you realize they aren't trying to be "low profile." They are architectural. They change how you walk. They’re heavy.
If you want something sleek, go buy some All-Stars. If you want a shoe that looks like it could crush a small rock and still look elegant at a gallery opening, you get the Ramones.
Mainline vs. DRKSHDW: The Big Confusion
This is where most beginners trip up. You'll see two pairs of high tops that look almost identical, but one is $400 more than the other.
- Mainline (Rick Owens): This is the luxury tier. You’re getting premium leathers—calf, lamb, sometimes even kangaroo or horse. The tags are usually a small white rectangular patch with a sketch of Rick himself.
- DRKSHDW (Darkshadow): This is the "streetwear" diffusion line. It focuses on textiles. Think heavy canvas, waxed denim, and vegan materials. It’s "tougher" and meant for daily beatings. The soles are the same, but the vibe is more utilitarian.
Honestly, some people prefer the DRKSHDW Ramones because the canvas ages better than the leather. It frays, it fades, and it looks better the more you destroy it. Mainline leather stays "nice," which isn't always what you want in a post-apocalyptic outfit.
The Fit: Don't Ruin Your Feet
Sizing these things is a nightmare if you don't know the rules.
Geobaskets generally run big. If you're a US 10, you might actually need a 42 (US 9) or a 43 (US 10) depending on the year. They have a massive toe box, so your toes won't be cramped, but the heel can slip if you don't size down.
Ramones are different. The mainline leather ones fit relatively true to size, but the DRKSHDW canvas versions can feel a bit narrower and shorter. If you have wide feet, don't even think about sizing down in canvas. You'll regret it about three blocks into your walk.
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Also, a heads-up: these shoes are heavy. Like, actually heavy. Your calves will get a workout. They aren't "comfy" in the way a pair of New Balance 990s are. They’re comfortable because they’re supportive and well-made, but you’re definitely going to feel the weight of that Italian rubber.
Spotting the Fakes in 2026
Since these are high-value grails, the market is flooded with "reps." If a deal looks too good to be true on a resale site, it is.
- The Zipper: Rick Owens uses Raccagni or YKK zippers. They should feel heavy and glide like butter. If the zipper is stiff or feels like plastic, walk away.
- The Serial Number: On high tops, look inside near the zipper. It should be there. If it's missing or the font looks "thin" and shaky, it's a fake.
- The Smell: Real Rick leather has a very specific, high-quality "expensive" scent. If it smells like chemicals or cheap glue, it's a red flag.
- The Silhouette: Fakes usually can't get the "toe curl" right. Authentic Rick high tops have a slight upward curve at the toe. If they sit flat like a board, they're probably "fufu."
How to Actually Style Them
The biggest mistake? Wearing them with skinny jeans. It makes you look like a kingdom hearts character—and not in a good way.
Because of the "monster truck" proportions, Rick Owens high top sneakers need volume. They look best with cropped, wide-leg trousers or "Pods" (the famous drop-crotch shorts). The goal is to let the shoe be the anchor of the outfit. If you hide them under long, baggy jeans, you're missing the point of the silhouette.
Actionable Next Steps for Buyers
- Check the Material: Decide if you want the "luxury" of Mainline leather or the "grit" of DRKSHDW canvas. For a first pair, canvas is usually more versatile.
- Measure Your Foot: Don't trust your "Nike size." Measure your foot in centimeters and compare it to the Rick Owens size chart.
- Inspect the Stitching: If buying used, ask for a photo of the stitching on the "shark tooth" sole. It should be perfectly uniform.
- Embrace the Scuffs: These shoes are not meant to stay "deadstock." They look better when they're dirty and worn-in. Don't be the person cleaning them with a toothbrush every night.
Own the bulk. Wear them until the soles wear down. That’s when they actually start looking like Rick Owens.
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Next Step: Research the specific "SS" (Spring/Summer) vs "FW" (Fall/Winter) releases, as the leather weights and tongue heights can change slightly between seasons.