Rick Owens never really liked sneakers. He used to say they were boring, ordinary, and basically the antithesis of his "glunge" (glamour meets grunge) aesthetic. But back in the mid-2000s, he needed something to wear to the gym. Instead of buying a pair of Nikes, he did what any obsessive-compulsive design genius would do: he built his own. That's how we got the Rick Owens Geobasket, a shoe he famously described as "monster trucks for his feet."
If you’ve spent any time on fashion forums or lurking in the dark corners of high-end streetwear, you’ve seen them. They are huge. They are aggressive. Honestly, they look like a cartoon version of a basketball shoe that accidentally wandered into a gothic opera. But despite their intimidating size and the four-figure price tag, they have remained a staple for nearly two decades.
The "Dunk" Drama and How It All Started
Before the Geobasket we know today existed, there was the "Dunk." Released around 2006, it featured a swoosh-like leather panel on the side that looked suspiciously like a certain Oregon-based brand’s logo.
Nike wasn't thrilled.
Legend has it a cease-and-desist letter arrived, and Rick—ever the pragmatist—shifted the design. In 2010, the "swoosh" was replaced with the sharp, geometric L-shaped panel we see now. That’s the birth of the official Rick Owens Geobasket. Most people actually prefer the "new" design because it feels more like Rick and less like a parody. It’s more architectural, more "brutalist," and definitely more original.
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Anatomy of a Cult Classic
So, what makes a Geobasket? It’s not just a high-top. It’s a structural statement.
First, there’s the tongue. It’s comically tall. It sticks up like a billboard for your ankles. Then you’ve got the side-zip closure—usually a heavy-duty YKK zipper—because nobody has the time to unlace these things every morning. The laces themselves are usually about a mile long, designed to be wrapped around the back of the shoe or left to dangle in that messy-but-intentional way.
Materials and Build
Rick doesn't do cheap. These are made in Italy, usually from full-grain calf leather or more exotic stuff like horse leather (LD) or even snakeskin. If you get a pair in your hands, the first thing you notice is the weight. They aren't light. They feel like boots.
- The Sole: It’s a thick, shark-tooth rubber sole. It gives you a good inch or two of height, which is nice if you're trying to look more imposing.
- The Padding: The collar is heavily quilted. It feels like a literal pillow around your Achilles.
- The Stitching: Look closely at the "L" panel. The stitching is thick, industrial, and meant to take a beating.
Why People Actually Buy Them
It’s easy to look at a $1,200 sneaker and call it ridiculous. But the Geobasket offers something most sneakers don't: longevity.
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Unlike a pair of Jordans that you’re terrified to crease, Geobaskets actually look better when they’re trashed. Rick Owens fans call it "beating your geos." The leather softens, the white soles turn a "milk" or "pearl" yellowish-grey, and they start to mold to your specific gait. They develop a soul. You’ll see people wearing pairs from 2014 that have been resoled three times because the leather upper is still indestructible.
The Reality of Sizing and Comfort
Let’s get real about wearing them. If you buy your "true" size in Geobaskets, you might find yourself swimming in them.
Most people in the community suggest sizing down by a full size. If you're a US 10 (EU 43), you’ll probably want an EU 42. They run long and wide. Also, the break-in period can be a bit of a nightmare. Because the leather is so thick and the sole is so stiff, the first week feels like walking in wooden clogs. But once that leather gives? They’re surprisingly comfy for a shoe that looks like it belongs in a sci-fi movie.
Styling: How Not to Look Like a Clown
The biggest mistake beginners make is wearing Geobaskets with skinny jeans. Don't do it. The shoes are so massive that skin-tight pants make you look like you have literal "monster truck" feet.
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Instead, go for:
- Drop-crotch trousers: The classic Rick Owens "pod" shorts or "creatch" cargos.
- Wide-leg pants: Something that drapes over the top of the shoe.
- Stacked denim: Heavy, waxed denim that bunches up on the tongue.
What's New in 2026?
We’ve seen a lot of variations lately. The "Jumbolace" versions—with laces as thick as ropes—have been huge. There’s also the "Creep" Geobasket which swaps the shark-tooth sole for a more traditional crepe sole. Lately, Rick has been playing with translucent leathers and even recycled materials from his "Temple" collections.
The price has definitely crept up over the years. You’re looking at anywhere from $950 on a lucky sale to $1,400 for a fresh mainline pair. Is it worth it? Honestly, if you want a sneaker that will last ten years and never go out of style in the avant-garde world, yeah. It’s an investment in a specific kind of subculture.
Actionable Next Steps
- Check the Secondary Market: Before buying new, look at Grailed or RealReal. You can often find "beaten" pairs for $400-$600 that already have that perfect aged look.
- Verify the Sole: If you're buying used, check the heel drag. Geobaskets are notorious for wearing down at the back of the heel. If it’s too far gone, you’ll need a cobbler to add a "heel tap."
- Know Your Codes: Look for "LBO" (calf leather) or "LCO" (cow leather) on the box. These are the most durable and classic textures to start with.
- Embrace the Zip: Never pull the zipper if there's tension. Lace the shoes once to your comfort, then use the zip only. It’ll save you a $100 repair bill when the teeth eventually snap.
Whether you love them or think they’re the ugliest thing since the Croc, the Geobasket isn't going anywhere. It’s a piece of fashion history you can actually wear to the grocery store. Just be prepared for people to ask you why you're wearing space boots.