You’ve probably seen the photos. The deer standing in the mist, the rowboats on the water, that specific curve of the river that looks like a Turner painting. Honestly, Richmond upon Thames is one of those rare places in London that isn't just a postcard—it’s a living, breathing, slightly posh, but deeply historic town that manages to feel like the countryside while still being on the District Line.
It’s weird. Most of London is frantic. Richmond isn't.
People get confused about what Richmond actually is. Is it a borough? A town? A park? It’s all of them. Stretching across both sides of the Thames, it’s the only London borough that spans the river. It’s where the royals used to hide when they were tired of the grime of Central London, and frankly, looking at the place today, you can see why they never really wanted to leave.
The Richmond Park Reality Check
Everyone talks about the deer. Yes, there are about 600 Red and Fallow deer roaming around. No, they aren't tame pets. Every year, the Royal Parks police have to remind people not to get within 50 meters of them, especially during the rutting season in autumn or when the hinds are protecting their calves in the spring.
Richmond Park is massive. We're talking 2,500 acres. That is three times the size of Central Park in New York. If you wander off the paved Tamsin Trail, you will get lost. I’ve done it. You’ll find yourself in a thicket of ancient oaks—some of which are over 700 years old—and forget that there’s a city of nine million people surrounding you.
One spot you cannot skip is King Henry’s Mound. It’s located in the gardens of Pembroke Lodge. There is a protected "viewing corridor" created in 1710 that allows you to look through a telescope (or just squint) and see St. Paul’s Cathedral over 10 miles away. It’s a legal requirement that no building can ever block that specific line of sight. It’s a tiny, weird bit of British law that preserves a view that hasn't changed much in centuries.
Isabella Plantation is Basically a Fever Dream
If you visit in late April or early May, you have to find the Isabella Plantation. It’s a fenced-off woodland garden inside the park. When the azaleas and rhododendrons bloom, the colors are so neon and aggressive it looks like a filter. It’s almost jarring compared to the muted greens and browns of the rest of the park. It’s also one of the best places to see the Mandarin ducks, which look like they were painted by someone who had never seen a real bird before.
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The Riverfront and the "Ted Lasso" Effect
Richmond has always been popular, but let's be real: Ted Lasso changed things. Since the show aired, the narrow alleys around Richmond Green have been swamped with fans looking for "The Crown and Anchor" (which is actually The Prince’s Head).
The Green itself is one of the most beautiful urban spaces in England. It’s twenty acres of grass surrounded by some of the most expensive real estate in the country. On a sunny Saturday, it’s packed with people drinking cider and watching local cricket matches. It feels incredibly English, almost to the point of cliché.
Walking the Thames Path
The stretch of the Thames here is tidal, but it feels different than the industrial grey water you see at Westminster. Here, it’s flanked by weeping willows and the famous white facade of the Richmond Riverside, designed by architect Quinlan Terry in the 1980s.
Some people hate Terry’s work because it’s "pastiche"—it looks like it’s from the 1700s but it’s actually quite modern. Honestly? It works. It makes the riverfront feel grand. If you walk south toward Petersham, the path gets wilder. You’ll pass Ham House, a 17th-century Stuart mansion that is allegedly one of the most haunted places in the UK. Even if you don't believe in ghosts, the garden there is a masterpiece of formal design.
Why Petersham Nurseries Isn't Just a Garden Center
You’ll hear people rave about Petersham Nurseries. It’s a bit of a trek from the town center, but it’s worth the blisters. It’s not just a place to buy a fern; it’s a high-end restaurant and tea room hidden inside a greenhouse. The floors are dirt. There are vines hanging from the ceiling.
It’s expensive. Let's not pretend otherwise. But having a piece of cake and a tea in a place that smells like damp earth and jasmine is a specific Richmond experience that you can't replicate in a Starbucks. It’s also a favorite haunt for local celebrities—keep an eye out for David Attenborough or Tom Hardy, both of whom have called the area home.
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The Forgotten History of Richmond Palace
Most people don't realize that Richmond was once the site of one of the grandest royal palaces in England. Richmond Palace was where Elizabeth I died in 1603. Today, almost nothing is left of it except "The Wardrobe" and the Gatehouse on Richmond Green.
The palace was mostly demolished after the execution of Charles I. If you walk through the archway of the Gatehouse, you can still see the coat of arms of Henry VII. It’s a tiny fragment of a massive Tudor history that’s literally buried under the luxury apartments of the modern town.
Kew Gardens: The Heavyweight Champion
Technically, the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, is in the borough of Richmond upon Thames. If you only have one day, this is where you spend it. It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site for a reason.
The Temperate House is the largest Victorian glasshouse in the world. Standing inside it feels like being in a steampunk version of the future. Then you have the Hive, an installation that uses LED lights and sound to mimic the real-time activity of a beehive on the grounds. It’s haunting and beautiful.
Kew isn't just for looking at flowers, though. It’s a serious scientific institution. They have the Millennium Seed Bank project and some of the most important botanical research happening on the planet.
The Great Pagoda
Standing 50 meters tall, the Great Pagoda at Kew was built in 1762. During World War II, it was used to test the aerodynamics of bombs. They dropped them through the floors to see how they fell. You can still see the repairs in the woodwork if you look closely enough while climbing the 253 steps to the top. The view from there is probably the best in West London.
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Where to Actually Eat and Drink (Without the Tourist Trap Prices)
Richmond is full of chains. Bill’s, Ivy Cafe, Gaucho—they’re fine, but they aren't "Richmond."
- The Roebuck: Go here. It’s at the top of Richmond Hill. Grab a pint, cross the road, and sit on the bench overlooking the river. This is the only view in England protected by an Act of Parliament.
- Gelateria Danieli: Located in the narrow lanes (Paved Court). It’s some of the best gelato in London. There’s usually a queue, but it moves fast.
- The Marlborough: A great pub with a massive beer garden that feels like a secret.
- Chanteroy: A tiny French deli that makes incredible sandwiches. Take one to the Green and eat it while watching the world go by.
Logistics: Getting There and Staying Sane
Getting to Richmond is easy. The District Line and the Overground both end there. If you’re coming from Waterloo, the "Fast" train takes about 15 to 19 minutes. Don't take the slow one; it stops at every single station in Southwest London and will turn your brain to mush.
Parking is a nightmare. Truly. If you drive to Richmond on a Sunday, you will spend forty minutes looking for a spot that costs £5 an hour. Use the train.
The Tide Issue
If you walk along the river path toward Twickenham, check the tide tables. Seriously. The Thames is tidal here, and at high tide, the path completely disappears under several feet of water. You will see tourists every week standing on benches, trapped because they didn't realize the river was coming for them.
The Richmond Verdict
Is it posh? Yes. Is it expensive? Absolutely. But Richmond upon Thames manages to avoid being a museum piece. It feels lived-in. It’s a place where people actually walk their dogs, row their boats, and argue about local planning permissions.
It’s the best version of London’s "village" identity. You get the history of the Tudors, the wildness of the deer park, and the sophistication of a world-class botanical garden, all within walking distance of a tube station.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit:
- Arrive Early: If you want to see the deer in Richmond Park without a crowd of people around them, get there at sunrise. The light hitting the bracken is incredible.
- Book Kew in Advance: It saves you money and guarantees entry, especially for the popular Christmas light trail.
- The "Hidden" Walk: Instead of staying in the town center, walk from Richmond to Kingston along the Thames Path. It’s about 5 miles, mostly flat, and takes you past some of the most beautiful riverside real estate in the world.
- Visit the Poppy Factory: It’s a unique piece of local history where veterans have been making remembrance poppies since 1922. You can book a tour and see the process firsthand.
- Check the Tide: If you’re planning a riverside lunch, Google "Richmond Tide Times" first so you don't end up with soggy shoes.
Richmond isn't a place you "do" in two hours. It’s a place you wander through. Wear comfortable shoes, bring a camera, and prepare to feel a lot more relaxed than you usually do in London.