Rent a flat in Milan: Why most people overpay and how to avoid the "expat tax"

Rent a flat in Milan: Why most people overpay and how to avoid the "expat tax"

Milan is expensive. Actually, it’s brutally expensive if you’re looking at it from the outside in. If you want to rent a flat in Milan without losing your mind—or your entire savings account—you need to understand that there are two versions of the city. There is the glossy, "Design Week" version of Milan where everything costs €2,000 a month, and then there’s the actual city where locals live.

Honestly, the rental market here is a bit of a mess right now. In 2025 and heading into 2026, we’ve seen prices in areas like Porta Romana and Isola skyrocket because everyone wants the same three things: high ceilings, a balcony, and a walk score that doesn’t require a Metro pass. But here’s the thing. You don’t have to live in Brera to have a "Milanese" life.

The brutal reality of the Milanese housing market

Let's talk numbers. Real ones. According to recent data from Immobiliare.it, the average price per square meter in Milan has officially bypassed the €22 mark. That means for a tiny 40-square-meter studio (monolocale), you’re looking at nearly €900 before you even touch utilities or the dreaded spese condominiali.

The spese condominiali—building fees—are the silent killer. I've seen people sign a lease for €1,200 only to realize there’s an extra €250 a month because the building has a 24-hour doorman (portinaio) and central heating that’s older than the Italian Republic. Always, and I mean always, ask if the heating is autonomo (you control it) or centralizzato (the building controls it and you pay a share). It makes a massive difference in your winter budget.

Why the neighborhood names you know are probably wrong for you

If you’re searching "rent a flat in Milan" on Google, you're probably seeing a lot of hits for Navigli. Stop. Navigli is beautiful for a drink, but living there is a nightmare of humidity, mosquitoes, and tourists screaming outside your window at 2:00 AM.

Instead, look at places like NoLo (North of Loreto). A few years ago, it was a bit rough. Now? It’s the creative hub. It’s gritty but authentic. You can still find a bilocale (one-bedroom) there for a price that doesn't feel like a robbery. Or look at Dergano. It’s on the Yellow Line (M3), it’s got a village feel, and it’s significantly cheaper than anything inside the Circonvallazione.

The "Circle" is the old Spanish wall boundary. If you stay outside it, you save 30%. It’s that simple.

The paperwork trap: Codice Fiscale and the 4+4 lease

You cannot rent a flat in Milan legally without a Codice Fiscale. It’s your tax ID. You’ll hear people say you can get by without it for short-term stays, but for a real transitional or long-term contract, it’s the golden ticket.

Italian rental contracts are weirdly specific. You’ll mostly encounter these three:

  1. 4+4 (Libero): The standard long-term lease. Four years, renewable for another four. It’s great for stability, but a pain if you plan on leaving in six months.
  2. 3+2 (Concordato): These have capped rents based on local agreements. They are rare in the city center but common in the outskirts. They're amazing for your wallet.
  3. Contratto Transitorio: These last from 1 to 18 months. They are what most expats end up with. To get one, you usually need a documented reason—like a work contract or a university enrollment—explaining why you’re only there temporarily.

Pro tip: Beware of the cedolare secca. It’s a tax regime for the landlord. If they use it, they can’t raise your rent annually based on inflation (ISTAT). It saves you money and paperwork. Ask for it.

How to actually find a place before it's gone

If you find a flat you like on Idealista or Casa.it, don’t email. Seriously. By the time they read your email, the flat has been seen by six people and rented by a guy who showed up with a folder full of pay stubs.

You have to call. In Italian, if possible. If you don't speak Italian, find a friend who does. "Vorrei fissare un appuntamento per vedere l'appartamento" is the phrase you need.

The Folder of Power.
When you go to a viewing, bring a physical folder. In it, put:

  • A copy of your passport.
  • Your Codice Fiscale.
  • Your last three pay stubs (buste paga) or your work contract.
  • If you’re a freelancer, your latest tax return (Unico).

Landlords in Milan are risk-averse. They’ve seen "Occupatons" happen where tenants don't pay and it takes years to evict them. They want to see that you are "solido." If you look solid, you get the keys.

The hidden costs of the "Milanese" lifestyle

Furniture is another thing. A lot of flats are rented "parzialmente arredato." In Italy, that often means "we left the kitchen cabinets but took the fridge and the oven." Check the description carefully for cucina arredata. If it says vuoto, you are literally buying your own lightbulbs and appliances.

Then there’s the deposit. Three months is standard. If they ask for six, walk away. That’s a red flag. Also, agency fees (provvigione) are usually 10% to 15% of the annual rent plus VAT (IVA). It’s a lot of upfront cash.

What most people get wrong about "Central" Milan

People think being near Duomo is the goal. It’s not. It’s a desert of fast-fashion stores and overpriced cafes. The "real" Milan is in the neighborhoods like Porta Venezia (the LGBTQ+ heart and great food) or Sant'Ambrogio (posh, academic, historic).

If you want a flat in Milan that feels like home, look for a Casa di Ringhiera. These are traditional tenement houses with balconies that run along the interior courtyard. They are iconic. They’re also great for meeting neighbors, which is the fastest way to stop being a "tourist" and start being a resident.

Essential Checklist for the Smart Renter

  • Check the Ape: This is the energy certificate. A "G" rating means you’ll freeze in winter and pay a fortune in gas. Look for "B" or higher if you can find it.
  • The Metro Rule: If the flat is more than a 10-minute walk from a Metro station, the rent should be at least 15% lower. Don't let them tell you the bus is "just as good." It’s not.
  • Security: Milan is generally safe, but ground-floor apartments (piano terra) should have bars on the windows (inferriate). If they don't, keep looking.
  • Internet: Ask about Fibra Ottica. Some old buildings in the center have thick stone walls that eat Wi-Fi signals for breakfast.

Actionable next steps

Stop scrolling and start prepping. If you want to rent a flat in Milan successfully, your first move is getting that Codice Fiscale from the Agenzia delle Entrate. You can actually start this process at an Italian consulate before you even arrive.

Next, set up alerts on Idealista but filter for "Privati" (Private owners) if you want to skip the agency fee. It’s harder, and you need better Italian, but it saves you thousands.

Lastly, don't commit to a long-term lease from abroad based on photos. Book an Airbnb or a "Student Hotel" for two weeks. Walk the streets at 11:00 PM. See if the "vibrant nightlife" the ad mentioned is actually just a trash compactor that runs at midnight. Milan reveals its secrets slowly; give yourself the time to listen.

Keep your documents ready, your phone charged, and your deposit in a liquid account. The good flats go in hours, not days. Be ready to pounce.