Walk into any high-end hair salon and you’ll see them. Little black bottles lined up like soldiers. If you’ve ever sat in a chair with a cold, liquidy goo on your head that smells vaguely like chemicals and magic, you’ve likely met Redken Shades EQ. But here is the thing: the shades eq toner chart isn't just a list of colors. It’s basically a periodic table for hairstylists. It is the difference between coming out looking like a literal goddess or leaving the salon with hair that looks like a brassy penny or a murky swamp.
Most people think toner is just "purple shampoo on steroids." That is wrong.
Shades EQ is an acidic demi-permanent hair color. Because it’s acidic, it doesn't swell the cuticle or cause the kind of damage you get with permanent dye. It basically sits on the hair like a sheer gloss. Think of it like lip gloss for your hair strands. You can see the natural dimension underneath, but the "filter" on top changes everything. If your stylist isn't looking at that chart like a mad scientist, you might want to start asking questions.
Deciphering the Shades EQ Toner Chart Without a Degree
The chart looks intimidating at first. You’ve got letters like P, V, NB, and NW. Then you’ve got numbers like 09, 06, or 010. If you don't know the code, it’s just gibberish.
The first number tells you the level. In the world of hair, 1 is black and 10 is the lightest blonde imaginable. If your hair is currently a level 7 (medium blonde) and you try to put a level 010 (ultra pale) toner on it, literally nothing will happen. You can’t tone hair lighter than it already is. This is the biggest mistake DIYers make. They buy the "whitest" toner on the chart and wonder why their orange hair stayed orange. You have to match the level of the hair to the level on the chart.
Then come the letters. These represent the background and tone.
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The background is the "anchor" of the color. Some shades have a "Brown to Tan" background, which keeps the color looking natural and prevents it from turning neon. Others have a "No Background," which stylists use for intense neutralizing or vivid results. If you’re looking at a shades eq toner chart, you’ll see the "V" stands for Violet, which kills yellow. The "P" is Pearl (usually blue/violet), which handles those gold-orange tones. "NA" is Natural Ash. If you want that "mushroom blonde" that's all over Instagram? That’s usually an 09V or 09P mixed with some 09NA.
The Secret Sauce: It’s All About the pH
Most hair color is alkaline. Alkaline products open the hair cuticle wide so the pigment can get inside. It works, but it’s rough on the hair. Redken’s whole claim to fame with the Shades EQ line is that it is pH-balanced.
When your hair is dyed or bleached, its pH level gets thrown out of whack. It becomes more alkaline. Applying an acidic toner brings the pH back down to its happy place (usually between 4.5 and 5.5). This is why your hair feels so much softer after a Shades EQ gloss than it did before. It literally smoothes the cuticle down flat. Flat cuticles reflect light. Reflective light equals shine.
It’s basically a conditioning treatment that happens to also make you not look like a pumpkin.
Why Your Stylist Mixes Three Different Bottles
If you watch a pro work, they rarely just pour one bottle into the bowl. They are mixing. A little 09V to kill yellow. A splash of 09N to keep it from looking "hollow" or purple. Maybe a drop of 000 Crystal Clear to dilute the whole thing so it doesn't get too dark.
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The shades eq toner chart is a guide, but the hair underneath is the canvas. Hair isn't just one color. It has "underlying pigments." When you lighten brown hair, it goes through stages: red, then red-orange, then orange, then gold, then yellow.
If a stylist sees orange-gold, they look at the color wheel. Blue cancels orange. Violet cancels yellow. So they grab something with a "B" or "V" base. If they just slapped a "Golden" toner on top of orange hair, you’d walk out looking like a sunset—and not in a cool, intentional way. Honestly, the chemistry involved is why some stylists charge $100 for a "simple" glaze. You aren't just paying for the liquid; you're paying for the fact that they know how to navigate that chart without turning your hair green.
The Rise of the "N" Shades
For a long time, everyone wanted to be as "ashy" as possible. Everyone wanted grey, silver, or "icy" hair. But lately, things are shifting. People are realizing that too much ash makes hair look dull and flat.
This is where the "N" (Natural) and "NW" (Natural Warm) sections of the chart come in. They add "meat" to the color. They make the hair look healthy and expensive. Celebrity stylists like Tracey Cunningham (who works with Khloe Kardashian and Anya Taylor-Joy) are famous for using Shades EQ to create those "expensive brunette" looks. They aren't just erasing warmth; they are refining it.
Reading the Chart: Level 010 vs. Level 09
In 2021, Redken expanded the shades eq toner chart to include the "Level 010" series. This was a huge deal in the hair world. Before that, 09 was the lightest you could go. For those people with ultra-bleached, platinum-to-the-bone hair, an 09 could sometimes come out a little too dark.
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The 010s are incredibly sheer. They allow for "toning without darkening." If you’ve ever had a "bright blonde" service and felt like your hair looked darker afterward, your stylist probably used a toner that was too low on the level scale. The 010 series fixed that.
Common Mistakes When Following the Chart
- The "Processing Solution" Swap: Shades EQ must be mixed with the specific Shades EQ Processing Solution. It’s a 2% peroxide developer. Some people try to use regular 20-volume developer to "make it last longer." Do not do this. It turns the acidic color into an alkaline one, ruins the shine, and makes the results totally unpredictable.
- The Time Factor: The chart assumes a 20-minute processing time. Not 5 minutes. Not 10. If you rinse it off early, the blue and violet pigments might not have fully developed, leaving you with the "warmth" you were trying to get rid of. It’s "acidic," so it won't "over-process" in the way permanent color does, but it does need its full time to sit and think about what it’s done.
- Dry vs. Damp Hair: Applying to bone-dry hair gives a more intense, darker result. Applying to damp hair gives a more sheer, subtle result. Professional stylists use this to their advantage, often applying to dry roots for more coverage and damp ends for a "melted" look.
Real Talk: How Long Does It Actually Last?
Demi-permanent color is not permanent. That’s the point. It’s meant to fade. Usually, you’re looking at 4 to 6 weeks, or about 20 to 24 shampoos.
If you use harsh clarifying shampoos or wash your hair in scalding hot water, that beautiful 09P toner is going to go down the drain in ten days. It’s a delicate coating. To keep the color from the shades eq toner chart looking fresh, you have to use sulfate-free products. Cold water rinses help, too. It sucks, but it’s true.
Actionable Tips for Your Next Salon Visit
If you want the best results, you need to speak the language, even if you aren't the one mixing the bowls.
- Bring Reference Photos: Don't just say "ashy." One person's "ashy" is another person's "grey." Show your stylist a photo and ask, "Where does this sit on the Shades EQ chart?"
- Ask About the Level: If you want to stay bright, ask if they are using the Level 010 series.
- Don't Skip the Gloss: Even if you love your highlights straight out of the foil, a clear gloss (000 Crystal Clear) from the chart will seal the cuticle and make that blonde last twice as long.
- Maintenance: If you're a blonde, ask which "V" or "P" shade they used. Many brands make "take-home" masks that mimic these specific tones so you can refresh the color between appointments.
The shades eq toner chart is basically the holy grail of modern hair coloring. It’s why salon hair looks different than box-dye hair. It’s about the nuances of tone, the health of the cuticle, and the science of the pH scale. Next time you're in the chair, take a peek at those bottles. Now you know that the "09V" isn't just a random code—it’s the reason you don't look like a lemon.
The most effective way to utilize this information is to ensure your stylist is performing a "test strand" if you are trying a new tone from the chart. Since Shades EQ is translucent, the starting "canvas" of your hair significantly impacts the final result. A five-minute test on a hidden piece of hair can prevent a full-head disaster and ensure the tone you picked from the chart actually translates to your specific hair porosity and base color.