Back in 2009, the Pokémon Trading Card Game felt like the Wild West. We were right in the middle of the Platinum era, and "SP" Pokémon—shorthand for Special Pokémon belonging to Trainers—were absolutely wrecking the meta. If you played back then, you remember the silver-bordered frames and the "C" suffix for Champion’s Pokémon. Specifically, Rayquaza C Lv X from the Supreme Victors expansion.
It was a card that looked terrifying and, in the right hands, actually was. But it’s also one of the most misunderstood cards from that generation. Most players saw that massive "200" damage stat on Final Blowup and lost their minds. Seriously, in 2009, hitting for 200 was essentially a guaranteed knockout on anything in existence.
But there’s a catch. There is always a catch with Rayquaza.
The Reality of Playing Rayquaza C Lv X
Honestly, this card is the definition of "high risk, high reward." To even use it, you had to level up your basic Rayquaza C, which was Cynthia’s signature dragon. The Lv. X version boasted 120 HP, which sounds tiny today, but for a 2009 basic-adjacent card, it was decent.
The main draw was the Poké-Body: Dragon Spirit. If Rayquaza C was your active Pokémon and took damage without getting knocked out, you could fish an energy card out of your discard pile and attach it right back to him. It was a built-in recovery mechanic designed to fuel that massive Final Blowup attack.
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That 200 Damage Problem
Let’s talk about Final Blowup. It costs a Water, a Fire, a Psychic, and a Colorless energy. That’s a nightmare to set up. Most decks back then were focusing on Luxray GL LV.X or Garchomp C LV.X because they were fast. Rayquaza was slow.
If you had cards in your hand, you had to discard all energy attached to Rayquaza after the attack.
That basically meant you were a sitting duck the next turn.
However, the "pro tip" back then was to try and empty your hand entirely. If your hand was empty, the discard effect didn't trigger.
It was a weird, clunky strategy that required perfect timing. You’d use cards like Regice or Felicity's Drawing to dump your hand, then nuke the opponent's active Pokémon for 200. It felt amazing when it worked. Most of the time, though, you just got "Bright Looked" by a Luxray and knocked out before you could even attach your third energy.
The Two Versions: Set vs. Promo
If you're looking to buy one of these today, you’ve got to be careful. There are two main English versions of Rayquaza C Lv X, and they aren't created equal in the eyes of collectors.
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- Supreme Victors #146: This is the "pull" version. It’s got the classic holofoil borders and that textured feel that LV.X cards are known for. In a PSA 10, this thing is a monster. Recent data from late 2025 and early 2026 shows PSA 10 copies hitting upwards of $1,800.
- DP47 Promo: This came in the Rayquaza C LV.X Collector’s Tin. It’s the same card mechanically, but because it was a guaranteed promo, it's way more common. You can usually find these for about half the price of the set version.
Kinda funny how a tin from a decade ago determines if you’re looking at a $100 card or a $500 card in mid-grade condition. If you're a binder collector, go for the promo. If you’re investing, you want the Supreme Victors 146/147.
Why It Faded From the Meta
You might wonder why Rayquaza didn't dominate like Garchomp C did. The answer is simple: Energy acceleration. Garchomp could snipe the bench for 80 damage for just three colorless energy (or two with a Double Colorless and an Energy Gain). Rayquaza needed four different types. Even with Dragon Spirit helping you out, it was just too much setup for a format that was becoming incredibly fast.
By the time the HeartGold & SoulSilver era rolled in, Rayquaza C Lv X was basically a relic. It couldn't keep up with the Prime Pokémon or the looming threat of the Legend cards.
Modern Value and Scarcity
Lately, the 2009-2010 era of the TCG has seen a massive price spike. People who grew up with Platinum now have adult money, and they want their dragons back.
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- Near Mint Set Version: Expect to pay $150 to $250.
- Lightly Played Promo: Usually sits around $60 to $80.
- Japanese Beat of the Frontier: This is the Japanese equivalent of Supreme Victors. A PSA 8 recently sold for around $400.
The centering on these old LV.X cards is notoriously bad. If you find one with even borders and no silvering (where the foil chips off the edges), hold onto it. Silvering is the death of a high grade for these cards because those silver borders show every single nick.
Getting the Most Out of Your Collection
If you've got a Rayquaza C Lv X sitting in a shoebox, or you're looking to snag one on eBay, here is the move. Check the edges. These cards were played heavily back in the day, so "Near Mint" is often a lie.
Look for the "SP" logo in the bottom right of the artwork. That's how you know it's a "C" (Cynthia's) Pokémon. If you're looking at a copy and the artwork seems a bit dull, it might be a fake—these should have a very distinct, vibrant holofoil that bleeds into the borders.
Next Steps for Collectors:
Go check your old tins. If you find the DP47 promo, it's a great piece of history, but if you find the 146/147 set version, get it into a top-loader immediately. The market for Supreme Victors is thinning out fast, and high-grade copies are becoming genuine "white whales" for Dragon-type collectors. If you're buying, stick to verified sellers on TCGPlayer or eBay with high-resolution photos of the back corners.