You’re driving up from Denver, the engine is humming a bit louder as the air thins, and suddenly you see them. Two massive rock towers poking out of the horizon like the ears of a giant stone bunny. That’s the landmark. But Rabbit Ears Pass Colorado is way more than just a quirky rock formation or a photo op on the way to Steamboat Springs. It’s a beast. Honestly, if you haven't driven it during a January "whiteout," you haven't truly experienced the raw, unpredictable nature of the Continental Divide.
Most people think of it as just a road. A stretch of U.S. Highway 40. But for locals and seasoned backcountry skiers, it’s a high-altitude playground that demands a massive amount of respect. It sits at an elevation of 9,426 feet. That’s high enough to make your bag of potato chips pop and your lungs feel like they’re working overtime.
The Reality of Driving Rabbit Ears Pass Colorado
Let’s talk about the drive. U.S. 40 is the lifeline between Kremmling and Steamboat, but during the winter, this stretch turns into a chaotic gauntlet. The West Summit and the East Summit act like two different worlds. You might have clear skies on one side and a literal wall of snow on the other. It’s weird.
The Colorado Department of Transportation (CDOT) keeps a close eye on this pass because the "snow stakes" here often measure accumulation in feet, not inches. If you’re heading up, you absolutely need to check the COtrip map. Don't just wing it. People get stuck. Every year, someone in a front-wheel-drive sedan with bald tires thinks they can handle the 7% grades, and every year, the tow trucks stay very, very busy.
- The Chain Law: It’s not a suggestion. When the lights are flashing, commercial vehicles must chain up, and passenger vehicles need 4WD, AWD, or designated winter tires (M+S or Three-Peak Mountain Snowflake).
- The "False Summit" Trap: Many drivers think they’re done once they hit the first crest. Nope. There’s a long, sweeping plateau between the summits that catches the wind. This is where the ground blizzards happen. You can’t see the hood of your car. It’s terrifying.
Why the "Ears" are Shrinking
Here’s a bit of a bummer: the iconic Rabbit Ears aren’t what they used to be. Geologically speaking, these are basalt pillars, remnants of volcanic activity from roughly 33 million years ago. Erosion is a patient thief. Over the decades, chunks of the "ears" have crumbled. If you look at postcards from the early 1900s, the profile was much sharper.
Today, they look a bit more like weathered stumps from certain angles. But they still stand as a sentinel over the valley. You can actually hike to the base of the formation. The Rabbit Ears Peak Trail is about 6 miles round trip. It’s rated as moderate, but "moderate" in the Rockies means you’re going to be huffing and puffing. The final scramble to the base of the rocks is steep. Loose scree. Slippery dirt. You’ll want actual hiking boots, not those trendy white sneakers.
Backcountry Heaven (and a Safety Warning)
If you’re into winter sports, Rabbit Ears Pass is basically the holy grail of accessible backcountry. While the tourists are crowded into the lift lines at Steamboat Resort, the locals are up on the pass.
There’s a massive distinction here that visitors often miss. The West Summit is largely for non-motorized use. Think cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and skinning up for some turns. The East Summit and the areas around Muddy Pass are a motorized free-for-all. Snowmobiles everywhere. High-marking. Braap-braap sounds echoing through the pines.
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If you're heading out, you need to know where the boundary lines are. The Forest Service (Routt National Forest) is pretty strict about these zones to keep the peace between the quiet-seekers and the engine-revvers.
Safety isn't optional.
The avalanche danger on Rabbit Ears isn't as high as, say, Berthoud Pass because the terrain is generally mellower, but "mellow" doesn't mean "safe." Cornices can snap. Trees can trap you. Always check the CAIC (Colorado Avalanche Information Center) forecast before you step out of your truck. Honestly, just having a beacon, probe, and shovel is the bare minimum. Knowing how to use them is what actually matters.
Summer is the Secret Season
Winter gets all the glory, but summer on the pass is something else. Wildflowers. I’m talking meadows so thick with Columbines and Paintbrush that it looks like a painting.
Muddy Pass Lake and Dumont Lake are the big draws here. Dumont Lake is a stellar spot for camping, though it fills up fast. It’s at nearly 10,000 feet, so even in July, it gets chilly at night. Pack a puffer jacket. You’ll feel silly at noon when it’s 75 degrees, but you’ll be thanking me at 2:00 AM when it hits 38.
The fishing in the high-alpine lakes around the pass is decent, mostly brook trout. They aren't huge, but they're feisty. If you’re a photographer, the "Golden Hour" on the pass is legendary. The way the light hits the volcanic rock of the ears makes them glow deep orange.
Logistics: What You Need to Know
Planning a trip across or to the pass? Here are the cold, hard facts.
- Fuel Up: There is nothing on the pass. No gas stations. No convenience stores. Get your snacks and fuel in Kremmling or Steamboat.
- Cell Service: It’s spotty. You might have five bars at the summit and zero bars five minutes later in a drainage. Download your maps for offline use.
- Wildlife: This is prime moose country. Moose are not friendly cows. They are massive, grumpy tanks that will charge you if you get too close. If you see one, give it a wide berth. Especially if there’s a calf.
- Altitude Sickness: If you’re coming from sea level, don't hike the peak on your first day. Drink twice as much water as you think you need. Headache? Nausea? That’s the mountain telling you to go lower.
The Best Way to Experience the Pass
If you want to do it right, don’t just drive through at 65 mph. Pull over at the West Summit overlook. There’s a large parking area. Stand there and look west toward the Yampa Valley. On a clear day, the view of the Flat Tops Wilderness is staggering.
For the hikers, start early. Like, 7:00 AM early. The afternoon thunderstorms in Colorado are no joke. Lightning loves high, exposed ridges like the one leading to Rabbit Ears Peak. If the clouds start looking like dark cauliflower, it’s time to head back to the car.
Common Misconceptions
People often ask if the pass is part of the Rocky Mountain National Park. It’s not. It’s in the Medicine Bow-Routt National Forests. This means different rules—usually more relaxed for dogs (keep them on a leash, please) and more opportunities for dispersed camping.
Another big one: "Is the road always open?" Usually, yes. But CDOT will shut it down in a heartbeat if a semi-truck jackknifes or the visibility hits zero. They don’t do it to ruin your vacation; they do it so you don't end up in a ditch.
Essential Gear for Rabbit Ears Pass
- Sturdy Footwear: No flip-flops for hiking.
- Layers: Rain shell, fleece, and a base layer.
- Sunscreen: At 10,000 feet, the UV rays will fry you in 20 minutes.
- Water: High altitude dehydrates you faster than you realize.
Moving Forward with Your Trip
Ready to head out? Your first move should be checking the weather specifically for "Rabbit Ears Pass" rather than just Steamboat Springs. The temperatures can vary by 15 degrees between the valley floor and the summit.
Check the CDOT cameras to see the actual road conditions in real-time. If you’re hiking, grab a physical map or a reliable GPS app. The trails are mostly well-marked, but it’s easy to get turned around in the dense timber if you wander off-path.
If you are visiting in the winter, ensure your vehicle is equipped with at least 3/16" of tire tread depth. This is a legal requirement during active traction law implementation. For those planning to camp at Dumont Lake, reservations through Recreation.gov are highly recommended during the peak summer months as walk-in spots are increasingly rare. Respect the land, pack out your trash, and keep the "Ears" beautiful for the next person.