If you’ve ever driven Highway 40 toward Steamboat Springs, you know that moment when the valley opens up and the rock formation looks exactly like—well, bunny ears. Rabbit Ear Pass is one of those Colorado staples that people tend to take for granted. Most folks just see it as a white-knuckled stretch of road during a January blizzard or a scenic bathroom break on the way to the ski slopes. But honestly, if you’re just passing through, you’re missing the point.
The pass sits at an elevation of 9,426 feet. It's not the highest in the state, not by a long shot. But it’s weird. Geologically and meteorologically, it doesn't play by the same rules as the 14ers further south. It’s the gateway to the Routt National Forest and marks the Continental Divide, meaning water on one side heads to the Atlantic and the other to the Pacific. Simple enough. But the weather here is legendary for being absolutely, unforgivingly unpredictable.
The Rabbit Ear Pass Rocks Are Actually Melting (Sort Of)
Let’s talk about those ears. They aren't just funny-looking rocks. They are volcanic remnants. Technically, the Rabbit Ears are a pair of basalt towers, the "plugs" of an ancient volcano that has long since eroded away. It’s part of the Rabbit Ears Range, which bridges the gap between the Gore Range and the Park Range.
The erosion is real. If you look at photos from a hundred years ago, the "ears" looked a lot more prominent. Wind, ice, and time are slowly reclaiming the basalt. Local hikers will tell you that the trail up to the base of the ears is one of the most rewarding 6-mile treks in the area, but the actual "ears" are crumbling. It's actually pretty dangerous to try and scramble up the towers themselves because the rock is so loose. It’s basically volcanic "rotten rock."
Why the Snow Here Is Different
You’ve probably heard people in Steamboat brag about "Champagne Powder." That isn't just a marketing gimmick dreamed up by a PR firm in the 70s—though they certainly used it. The science is actually tied to the geography of Rabbit Ear Pass.
👉 See also: Atlantic Puffin Fratercula Arctica: Why These Clown-Faced Birds Are Way Tougher Than They Look
When storms move in from the west, they hit the Park Range and the Flat Tops. Because the pass is slightly lower than the surrounding peaks, it creates a funnel effect. The moisture gets squeezed out, but the air stays incredibly cold and dry. This results in snow with extremely low water content. While Denver gets heavy, wet "heart attack" snow, Rabbit Ear Pass gets the fluffy stuff that you can literally blow off your windshield with a single breath.
It’s a playground for snowmobiles. Seriously. The West Summit is largely for non-motorized use (skiers and snowshoers), but the East Summit is a motorized free-for-all. It is widely considered one of the premier snowmobiling destinations in the Western United States. The meadows are massive. You can get lost in the white for hours. Just make sure your GPS is working because when the fog rolls in on the pass, it’s a total whiteout. Navigating by landmarks becomes impossible when every tree looks like a ghost.
The Reality of Driving Highway 40 in Winter
Listen, I love the pass, but driving it can be a nightmare. It’s steep. It’s windy. And the "scenic overlooks" turn into ice rinks.
CDOT (the Colorado Department of Transportation) spends an insane amount of money keeping this stretch clear, but they can't fight physics. The grade is about 7%. That doesn't sound like much until you’re behind a semi-truck that has its brakes smoking, or worse, you’re trying to pass one and hit a patch of black ice.
✨ Don't miss: Madison WI to Denver: How to Actually Pull Off the Trip Without Losing Your Mind
- The Chain Law: It is not a suggestion. If you see the lights flashing, you better have 4WD, AWD, or the right tires.
- The Muddy Creek Side: The descent toward Kremmling is often drier but windier.
- The Steamboat Side: This is where the "snow globe" effect happens. It can be sunny in Kremmling and a blizzard by the time you hit the West Summit.
One thing people get wrong? They think the West Summit is the highest point. It’s actually the East Summit that holds the title, though the West Summit is where you get those iconic views of the Yampa Valley.
Summer on the Pass: It’s Not Just for Skiers
Once the snow finally melts—which, let's be real, can be as late as July—the pass transforms. The wildflowers are aggressive. I mean that in the best way possible. Columbines, paintbrush, and lupine cover the meadows in a way that looks like a Windows screensaver from 2005.
The Dumont Lake Campground is the spot to be. It’s tucked just off the main road, but it feels miles away. It’s a high-alpine lake, so it’s cold. Don't expect to go for a casual swim unless you’re into cold plunges. But for fishing or just sitting on a paddleboard? It’s perfect.
The Continental Divide Trail (CDT) crosses right through here. You might see "thru-hikers" with massive packs and questionable hygiene. They’ve likely walked from the Mexican border and are heading toward Canada. Treat them with respect; they’ve seen things you wouldn't believe.
🔗 Read more: Food in Kerala India: What Most People Get Wrong About God's Own Kitchen
A Note on the "Old" Pass
A lot of people don't realize there’s an old road. Long before the current Highway 40 was engineered to handle modern traffic, the "Old Rabbit Ear Pass Road" was the main artery. You can still see parts of it. It was narrower, steeper, and significantly more terrifying.
Some of these old segments are now used as forest service roads or hiking trails. If you’re looking to escape the crowds that congregate near the main "Ears" trailhead, exploring the forest service roads on the north side of the highway is a smart move. You’ll find old hunting camps and maybe some elk if you’re quiet enough.
Navigating the Seasons
If you're planning a trip, timing is everything.
Late June to Early August: Peak wildflower season. The bugs can be bad, so bring the heavy-duty spray.
September: The aspens on the lower slopes turn gold. The pass itself is mostly evergreens, but the views down into the valley are spectacular.
December to March: Prime winter recreation. Check the CAIC (Colorado Avalanche Information Center) if you plan on going off-trail. Even though the pass is "mellow" compared to some jagged peaks, the meadows can still have dangerous drifts and small slide zones.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
Don't just drive over the pass. Experience it correctly.
- Download Offline Maps: Cell service is spotty at best once you dip into the valleys on either side.
- Check the Webcam: CDOT has a camera right at the summit. If it looks like a grey smudge, stay home or grab your heavy-duty gear.
- Hike the Ears Early: The parking lot for the Rabbit Ears Trail fills up by 9:00 AM on summer weekends. Get there at sunrise. The light hitting the basalt at dawn is worth the lost sleep.
- Stop at the Pulloffs: There are specific areas designed for photos. Do not, under any circumstances, stop in the middle of the road to take a picture of a moose. It happens every year, and it’s how accidents start.
- Pack Layers: I've seen it snow on Rabbit Ear Pass in August. I’ve also seen it hit 80 degrees in June. The temperature swings are wild.
The pass is more than a transit point. It’s a geological boundary and a weather engine that dictates life in the Yampa Valley. Whether you’re there to snowmobile the deep powder or just to stretch your legs on the way to the hot springs, give those crumbling basalt ears a second look. They won't be there forever.