Honestly, if you were watching the carriage procession at Royal Ascot recently, you probably noticed the sparkle before you even saw the horse. Queen Camilla has been digging deep into the royal vaults lately, and she’s not playing it safe with the "small" stuff. For the opening day of the 2025 races, she pinned a piece of history to her mint green Dior coat that basically stopped every jewelry nerd in their tracks: the Cullinan V brooch.
It’s a heart-shaped monster of a diamond. We’re talking 18.8 carats of pure, icy fire.
But this isn't just about looking rich. There is a specific kind of "jewelry diplomacy" happening here that most people completely miss. By choosing this specific stone, Camilla isn't just wearing a pretty accessory; she’s effectively "rebranding" the most famous diamond in the world for a new era.
The Heart of the Matter: Why the Cullinan V is Special
You’ve heard of the Cullinan diamond, right? Back in 1905, a guy named Frederick Wells found a chunk of rock in South Africa that was literally the size of a human heart. It was 3,106 carats. To put that in perspective, most engagement rings are maybe one or two carats. This thing was a brick.
When they cut it up, they got nine major stones. The big ones (Cullinan I and II) are in the Sceptre and the Imperial State Crown. They stay under heavy guard in the Tower of London. But the "smaller" ones—if you can call nearly 19 carats small—were kept by Queen Mary as her personal stash.
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The Cullinan V is the heart-cut one. Queen Mary, who was kinda the ultimate "jewelry magpie," had it set in this delicate platinum web of scrolls and sunrays. It’s light, it’s airy, and it’s arguably the most beautiful of the bunch.
A Subtle Tribute to Elizabeth II
Why does everyone care that Camilla wore it to Royal Ascot? Because for 70 years, this was Queen Elizabeth II’s go-to.
She wore it for her Christmas broadcasts. She wore it to London Fashion Week when she sat next to Anna Wintour. It was a "workhorse" piece for her. By wearing it at Ascot—one of the late Queen’s absolute favorite events of the year—Camilla is making a very clear, very public nod to her mother-in-law. It’s a way of saying, "I’m keeping her spirit here at the track," without having to give a boring speech about it.
The "Granny's Chips" Connection
You might hear people talk about "Granny's Chips" when discussing Camilla and the Cullinan diamonds. That’s actually a different piece—the Cullinan III and IV brooch.
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That one is a massive pear-shaped drop hanging from a square-cut stone, totaling about 158 carats. Queen Elizabeth II famously called them "Granny's Chips" because, compared to the huge stones in the Crown Jewels, these were just the "chips" off the old block.
Camilla actually had the Cullinan III, IV, and V temporarily set into her crown for the Coronation back in 2023. It was a massive deal because it replaced the Koh-i-Noor diamond, which is... let's just say, "complicated" in terms of history. By using the Cullinan stones instead, the palace dodged a huge diplomatic headache while still keeping the "wow" factor.
Why Royal Ascot is the Ultimate Jewelry Stage
Ascot is different from a State Visit or a Coronation. It’s a bit more relaxed, but the cameras are everywhere.
- The Lighting: Natural sunlight does things to diamonds that indoor chandeliers just can't.
- The Tradition: Royal Ascot has its own "Royal Enclosure" dress code. Brooches are the easiest way to stand out when everyone else is also in a coat dress and a hat.
- The Message: Camilla has been using these races to debut "hidden" gems. On the final day of the 2025 meet, she even pulled out the Rothschild Brooch, a diamond bow and flower piece that hadn't been seen in public since 1936!
What Most People Get Wrong About These Diamonds
A lot of folks think these jewels are just sitting in a box waiting to be picked. In reality, there’s a whole team—the Queen’s Dresser and the Crown Jeweller—who plan these looks months in advance.
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The Cullinan V is actually quite versatile. It was originally part of a "stomacher" (a giant piece of jewelry that covered the front of a bodice) for the 1911 Delhi Durbar. Queen Mary liked it because she could unclip it and wear it as a simple brooch. Camilla is following that same playbook: take something old, take it apart, and make it work for a modern outfit.
Basically, what we're seeing is a shift in how the Royal Family uses its wealth. They aren't hiding these stones away in a vault anymore. They’re using them to signal continuity. Every time Camilla pins that 18.8-carat heart to her lapel, she’s linking herself to Queen Mary’s 1911 style and Queen Elizabeth’s 70-year reign.
How to Follow the Royal Diamond Trail
If you're interested in the technical side of things, here is what you should look for next time the Queen makes a public appearance:
- The Setting: If it’s platinum, it’s likely a piece from the early 20th century (Queen Mary’s era).
- The Cut: Heart shapes and marquise cuts were very popular for the smaller Cullinan stones.
- The Rotation: Notice how she often pairs these with a four-row pearl choker. It’s her signature "uniform" that keeps the focus on the brooch.
The next time you see a headline about a "billion-dollar diamond," remember it’s probably just a piece of the Cullinan. And if you want to see the biggest versions for yourself, a trip to the Tower of London to see the Sovereign's Sceptre is the only way to truly grasp the scale of what we're talking about. The 530-carat "Great Star of Africa" makes the Ascot brooch look like a pebble, which is honestly kind of terrifying to think about.
Take Actionable Note: For those following royal fashion trends, watch for the reappearance of the Cullinan VI and VIII (often worn together as a brooch). These are the next "most likely" candidates for a public outing as Queen Camilla continues to modernize the way the public interacts with the Crown’s private collection. Keep an eye on the upcoming State Visit schedules; that's usually where the "big guns" come out to play.