Honestly, most people only think of Pyeongchang Republic of Korea when they see old clips of the 2018 Winter Olympics. They picture snow-dusted ski jumps and colorful parkas. But if you only show up when the temperature hits freezing, you're missing the soul of the place. Pyeongchang is basically the high-altitude backyard of Korea.
It’s sitting up in the Taebaek Mountains at an average elevation of 700 meters. Locals call it "Happy 700." Why? Because apparently, that's the altitude where humans feel the most comfortable. Whether that's scientific or just great marketing, the air here does hit different. It’s crisp. Even in the middle of a humid Korean summer, Pyeongchang stays relatively chill while Seoul is melting.
Getting There: The KTX is a Game Changer
You used to have to suffer through a three-hour bus ride from Seoul that felt like an eternity. Now? You hop on the KTX-Eum at Seoul Station or Cheongnyangni. In about an hour and a half, you're stepping off at Jinbu Station or Pyeongchang Station. It's fast.
Once you arrive, things get a little tricky. Pyeongchang is huge. It’s a county, not a compact city. If you don't have a car, you're going to be relying on local buses that run on "mountain time" or expensive taxis. If you're serious about exploring the hidden corners, rent a car. Driving through the mountain passes is half the fun anyway, especially when the morning mist is rolling off the peaks.
The "Not-Just-For-Skiing" Resorts
Look, Yongpyong Resort and Alpensia are the big names. They have the Olympic pedigree. If you're into skiing, Yongpyong is the "Mecca" because it actually has decent vertical drops for Korea. But in the "off-season," these places transform into weirdly charming alpine villages.
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The Balwangsan Skywalk at Yongpyong is a must. You take the cable car up—it’s one of the longest in Asia at 7.4 km—and you're suddenly standing on a glass platform looking out over the "Baekdudaegan" spine of the peninsula. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the East Sea. It's dizzying.
Beyond the Slopes: Real Life in the Highlands
- Daegwallyeong Sheep Farm: It sounds like a tourist trap, but it’s genuinely peaceful. It looks more like Switzerland than Korea. You can buy a small basket of dried grass to feed the sheep. It’s a vibe.
- Samyang Ranch: This is the massive one. Think rolling green hills and giant wind turbines. It’s so big they have a shuttle bus to take you to the top. If you’ve watched any K-dramas, you’ve probably seen this place in the background of a dramatic confession scene.
- Herbnara Farm: Located in the Heungjeong Valley. It has 13 themed gardens and about 100 varieties of herbs. It’s a great spot to grab a tea and just breathe.
Spiritual Deep Dives at Woljeongsa
If the resorts feel too "commercial," head into Odaesan National Park. This is where you find Woljeongsa Temple. It was founded way back in 643 by a monk named Ja Jang.
The walk to the temple is the best part. You walk through a forest of fir trees that are over 500 years old. It’s about a kilometer of straight, towering greenery. In the winter, the snow piles up on the branches and it looks like a Narnia set. Inside the temple, keep an eye out for the Octagonal Nine-Story Stone Pagoda. It's a Goryeo-era masterpiece that survived the Korean War, which is a miracle considering most of the wooden structures were burned down and rebuilt later.
If you have the time, do a Temple Stay. You’ll wake up at 4:00 AM for chanting, eat "Baru Gongyang" (monastic formal meals), and learn that sitting still is actually really hard.
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What You’re Actually Going to Eat
Forget the standard BBQ you get in Seoul. Pyeongchang food is rugged. It’s mountain food. Because the terrain is so rocky, they couldn't grow much rice historically. Instead, they leaned into buckwheat and potatoes.
Hwangtae (Dried Pollack) is the local legend. They hang the fish out on wooden racks called "deokjang" in the freezing mountain wind. It freezes at night and thaws during the day, over and over, until the meat becomes fluffy and yellow. Hwangtae-guk (soup) is the ultimate hangover cure. It’s savory, light, and surprisingly creamy.
Then there’s Makguksu. These are buckwheat noodles served in a cold, tangy broth or with a spicy gochujang sauce. The best places are in Bongpyong. This area is famous because of a famous Korean short story called "When Buckwheat Flowers Bloom." In early September, the whole valley turns white with buckwheat blossoms. It looks like someone spilled salt all over the hills.
Don't skip the Memil Jeonbyeong. They’re buckwheat crepes stuffed with spicy radish or kimchi. They’re cheap, greasy in a good way, and go perfectly with a bottle of local corn makgeolli.
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Avoid the Tourist Traps
People often make the mistake of staying only in the "Olympic" zones. If you do that, you're just staying in a high-end hotel that could be anywhere.
Instead, head to the Pyeongchang Traditional Market or the Bongpyong Market (which opens on dates ending in 2 and 7). This is where you see the real Gangwon-do. Grandmas sitting on the floor selling wild mountain roots (namul) they picked themselves that morning. The smells are intense—fermented soybeans, frying oil, and damp earth.
Actionable Tips for Your Trip
Don't just wing it. Pyeongchang is beautiful but can be frustrating if you don't plan.
- Check the Lunar Calendar: If you go during Chuseok or Seollal, the KTX will be sold out months in advance and the roads will be a parking lot.
- Layer Up: Even in summer, the mountains get cold at night. In winter, it’s a different beast entirely. The wind chill at Daegwallyeong is legendary. Pack a "long padding" (those long puffer coats) if you're coming between December and February.
- Download Naver Maps: Google Maps is basically useless for navigation in South Korea. Naver or Kakao Maps will give you accurate bus times and walking paths.
- Try the Trout: The Pyeongchang Trout Festival in Jinbu (usually Dec-Feb) lets you catch fish through a hole in the ice. Even if you don't catch anything, you can buy fresh trout sashimi or grilled trout right there. It’s incredibly fresh.
Pyeongchang isn't a place for neon lights and 24-hour shopping. It's where you go when you're tired of the Seoul hustle. It’s quiet, a bit rough around the edges, and smells like pine needles and woodsmoke.
To start your journey, book your KTX ticket to Jinbu Station at least two weeks in advance, especially if you're traveling on a Friday or Saturday. Once there, prioritize a visit to the Woljeongsa Fir Tree Forest before the midday crowds arrive to truly experience the silence of the Taebaek Mountains.