You’re probably thinking about a beach. Most people do when they hear "Costa Rica." They picture the surf at Santa Teresa or the humid jungles of Manuel Antonio, but Pura Vida Retreat & Spa is different. It’s high up. Like, 4,900 feet high.
It sits on the edge of the Poás Volcano in Alajuela, and the air there feels thinner, crisper, and way less salty than the coast. Honestly, if you show up expecting a tropical beach club, you’re going to be confused. This isn't a resort for drinking margaritas by a pool all day—though there is a pool, and it's lovely. It’s a dedicated wellness center that focuses heavily on yoga and holistic healing. It’s been around for decades, long before "wellness travel" became a buzzword on Instagram.
The Real Vibe of Pura Vida Retreat & Spa
When you arrive at the estate, the first thing that hits you is the coffee. The retreat is literally surrounded by coffee plantations. You can smell the earth and the beans when the breeze kicks up.
The architecture isn't sleek or ultra-modern. It’s colorful. It’s quirky. You might stay in a "Tented Camp" which feels like high-end glamping, or one of the A-frame cottages that look like they belong in a mountain village. Some people find the lack of air conditioning a dealbreaker, but at nearly 5,000 feet, you really don't need it. The mountain air does the work for you. It gets chilly at night. Like, "bring a fleece" chilly.
The heart of the property is the yoga halls. They have these massive hardwood floors and views that stretch across the Central Valley. When the clouds roll in, you’re basically practicing inside a mist. It’s moody. It’s quiet. It’s exactly what people mean when they talk about a "reset."
Let’s Talk About the Food (Because It’s Not Buffet Junk)
If you're looking for a burger and fries, you’re in the wrong place. The dining hall at Pura Vida Retreat & Spa operates on a "garden-to-table" philosophy that leans heavily toward vegetarian and vegan options.
They serve meals buffet-style, but it’s high-quality stuff. Think fresh papaya that actually tastes like something, local beans, and a lot of organic greens. They do serve fish and chicken occasionally, but the focus is definitely on plant-based nutrition. It's meant to support the detox process. You’ll find yourself eating a lot of gallo pinto (the classic Costa Rican rice and beans) for breakfast. It sounds simple, but when it’s made with local spices and served with fresh avocado, it’s a game changer.
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One thing to note: coffee is a big deal here, obviously, but they encourage you to limit caffeine if you're there for a deep cleanse. It’s a bit ironic considering the location, but the goal is nervous system regulation.
Why the "Spa" Part Matters More Than You Think
The "Spa" in the name isn't just for facials. They call it the Wellness Center, and the treatments are surprisingly intense. They offer Watsu—which is essentially a floating massage in a warm pool—and it's one of those things that sounds weird until you try it. A therapist moves you through the water, stretching your limbs while you're completely weightless. People often have emotional breakthroughs during these sessions. It’s deep work.
They also have Ayurvedic treatments. This isn't the "lite" version you find at a Marriott. They use traditional oils and techniques aimed at balancing your doshas.
The Logistics Nobody Tells You
Getting there is surprisingly easy, which is a rare win for Costa Rica travel. It’s only about 20-30 minutes from Juan Santamaría International Airport (SJO). You don't have to brave the five-hour pothole-filled drives that define the rest of the country.
But here’s the catch: the road up the mountain is steep. Like, really steep. If you’re prone to motion sickness, take something before the shuttle picks you up. Once you're there, you're mostly contained on the property unless you book an excursion.
Is it actually "Pura Vida"?
The phrase Pura Vida is everywhere in Costa Rica. It means "pure life," but it’s also a greeting, a goodbye, and a way of saying "it’s all good." At the retreat, they take it literally. The pace is slow. If you’re a Type-A person who needs a packed schedule of high-intensity activities, you might struggle for the first 48 hours.
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The WiFi can be spotty in the further reaches of the gardens. That’s intentional, mostly. It’s a place designed for disconnection. You’ll see people wandering around in yoga pants and robes, looking slightly dazed but very happy.
The Common Misconceptions
- It’s a luxury hotel. No. It’s a retreat center. There’s a difference. Luxury hotels focus on service and amenities; Pura Vida focuses on the experience and your internal state. The rooms are clean and comfortable, but they aren't "five-star" in the traditional sense.
- You have to be a yoga pro. Not true. While they host many teacher trainings, there are plenty of beginners. No one is judging your downward dog.
- It’s hot. Nope. Again, it’s the mountains. It’s spring-like during the day and crisp at night.
Real Talk: The Cost
It’s not the cheapest stay in Costa Rica, but it’s far from the most expensive. You’re paying for the expertise of the instructors and the quality of the food. Most people book "retreat packages" which include meals and classes, which usually ends up being better value than trying to do it a la carte.
What to Pack (The Essentials)
- Layers. Seriously. You will go from sweating in the sun to shivering at dinner.
- Good walking shoes. The terrain is uneven.
- A reusable water bottle. The tap water at the retreat is filtered and safe to drink.
- An open mind for the "woo-woo" stuff. You might find yourself in a drum circle or a cacao ceremony. Just go with it.
The Best Time to Visit
Costa Rica has two seasons: green (rainy) and dry. The dry season runs from December to April. This is when the weather is most predictable, but it’s also the most crowded.
The green season (May to November) is actually quite beautiful at the Pura Vida Retreat & Spa. The afternoon rains make the gardens explode with color, and the mist on the mountains is incredibly atmospheric. Plus, it's cheaper. If you don't mind a heavy downpour at 2:00 PM every day, it’s a great time to go.
Beyond the Mat: Day Trips
If you get restless, you can head out to the Poás Volcano National Park. It’s one of the few places in the world where you can drive almost to the edge of an active crater. There’s also the La Paz Waterfall Gardens nearby. It’s a bit touristy, but the butterflies and the sheer power of the falls are worth the trip.
Final Thoughts on the Experience
Pura Vida Retreat & Spa is for a specific kind of traveler. It’s for the person who feels a bit burnt out and needs a hard reset. It’s for the person who wants to wake up to the sound of tropical birds instead of an alarm clock. It’s not about "seeing" Costa Rica in the sense of ticking boxes off a bucket list; it’s about feeling the country’s energy.
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The staff are mostly locals from the Alajuela area, and they bring a genuine warmth to the place. You aren't just a room number. By the end of a week, the kitchen staff will probably know exactly how you like your tea.
Next Steps for Your Trip
To get the most out of a stay at Pura Vida, check their calendar for specific "Theme Weeks." Often, world-renowned instructors fly in to lead 7-day intensives on anything from breathwork to trauma release. Booking during one of these weeks ensures you're surrounded by like-minded people.
If you're traveling solo, don't worry. The communal dining setup makes it incredibly easy to meet people. In fact, about 40% of their guests are solo travelers. Simply show up, grab a plate of gallo pinto, and start a conversation.
Lastly, make sure to book your spa treatments (especially the Watsu) at least two weeks before you arrive. The best therapists fill up fast, and you don't want to miss out on the very thing that makes this place famous.