You’ve seen them. Maybe they’re tucked away in a dusty jewelry box from 1998, or perhaps you’ve noticed them popping up on TikTok influencers lately. Puka shells carry a weirdly specific weight in our cultural memory. For some, they represent the peak of 90s surf culture and Abercrombie catalogs; for others, they are a sacred piece of Hawaiian heritage that has been unfortunately "tourist-ified" over the decades.
It’s just a necklace, right? Not really.
The story of the puka shell is actually a bit of a rollercoaster involving ancient craftsmanship, massive celebrity endorsements, and a surprising amount of marine biology. Honestly, most people wearing them today probably couldn't tell you where they actually come from or why the "real" ones are getting harder and harder to find.
What is a Puka Shell, Honestly?
Most of the "puka" necklaces you buy at a boardwalk shop for five bucks aren't actually puka shells. They are mass-produced pieces of plastic or common shells that have been tumbled in a machine to look smooth.
A real puka shell is the terminal spire of a cone snail (genus Conus). When the snail dies, its shell breaks apart in the surf. Over years—sometimes decades—the ocean waves roll these fragments back and forth against the sand and coral. This natural erosion grinds the shell down until only the thick, sturdy top remains.
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The word "puka" is Hawaiian for "hole."
That’s the defining feature. The hole in the center isn't drilled by a person with a Dremel tool; it’s worn through naturally by the tide and the elements. Finding a perfectly symmetrical, naturally "drilled" puka shell on a beach like Sunset Beach on Oahu is actually kind of a big deal. It’s a gift from the sea.
The 1970s Boom and the Celebrity Connection
While native Hawaiians have used these shells for centuries as symbols of status and protection, the global obsession kicked off in the 1970s. It wasn't organic. It was Hollywood.
Elizabeth Taylor was famously photographed wearing a puka shell necklace. Suddenly, everyone wanted one. David Cassidy and the Partridge Family era pushed the look into the mainstream. It became the "it" accessory for the jet-set crowd trying to look "beachy" without actually getting sand in their shoes.
Then came the 90s.
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If the 70s were about glamour, the 90s were about the "bro" aesthetic. Think Sugar Ray, Chad Michael Murray in One Tree Hill, and every guy who owned a surfboard (or just a bottle of Sun-In). The shells became chunkier, whiter, and decidedly more suburban. This is where the "VSCO girl" aesthetic of the late 2010s eventually drew its inspiration, bringing the puka shell back for a third or fourth life.
Why Real Puka Shells Are Disappearing
If you go to a beach today, you might find thousands of shells, but finding a high-quality puka is becoming rare. Part of this is just the sheer volume of people combing the beaches. But there’s a deeper environmental angle here.
Ocean acidification and rising water temperatures affect the way mollusks like the cone snail build their shells. When the shell's structural integrity is compromised, it doesn't erode into a perfect, wearable disc; it just crumbles into dust.
Real Hawaiian puka shells are also protected by law in many ways. Hawaii has strict regulations (specifically under the Hawaii Revised Statutes) regarding the commercial take of marine life and certain natural resources. You can't just back a truck up to the sand and start scooping.
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Spotting the Fakes
If you’re looking to buy an authentic piece, you’ve got to be a bit of a detective.
- Symmetry is a Red Flag: Nature is messy. If every single shell on a strand is identical in size and thickness, it was made in a factory.
- The "Spiral" Test: Look at the back of the shell. A real cone snail spire will show a faint, concentric spiral pattern.
- Feel the Weight: Real puka shells are surprisingly heavy for their size because they are the thickest part of the snail's armor.
- The Hole: A naturally formed hole is usually slightly off-center and has smooth, water-worn edges. A drilled hole looks sharp and perfect.
The Cultural Weight of the "Shell"
We need to talk about the "tourist" vs. "tradition" aspect. In Hawaiian culture, lei making is a sacred art. Giving a puka shell lei is a sign of deep respect and carries a wish for a safe journey. When we see them sold as cheap trinkets, it can feel like a bit of a slap in the face to the craftsmanship involved in traditional Hawaiian jewelry.
Expert lei makers like those found on Ni’ihau (though they primarily use the tiny Momi or Laiki shells) spend hundreds of hours sorting shells by color and size. A high-end puka lei from a reputable Hawaiian artist can cost hundreds, even thousands, of dollars. It’s an investment, not a souvenir.
Is the Trend Dead?
Not even close. Fashion is cyclical. We saw the puka shell return in 2019 with the "VSCO girl" trend, and in 2024 and 2025, it morphed again into the "Coastal Grandma" and "Surfer Sleek" aesthetics.
Modern designers are now pairing puka shells with 14k gold and pearls. It’s a "high-low" mix that takes the shell out of the surf shop and puts it on the runway. Brands like Prada and Tohum have played with shell motifs, proving that as long as humans have a connection to the ocean, we’re going to want to wear pieces of it.
How to Wear Them Without Looking Like a 1999 Pop Star
If you want to pull this off today without looking like you’re heading to a Saved by the Bell audition, the key is layering.
Don't just wear one tight choker. Layer a puka strand with a longer gold chain or a pendant. Mix the textures. If the shells are all one stark white color, they look cheap. Look for "tiger" puka shells which have brown and tan mottling. They look more organic and sophisticated.
What You Should Do Next
If you’re genuinely interested in puka shells, don't just buy the first $10 strand you see on a mass-market retail site.
- Research Ethical Sellers: Look for artisans based in Hawaii or the Philippines who source shells sustainably.
- Learn the History: Read up on the Conus snail and the geology of Hawaii to understand why these fragments exist in the first place.
- Inspect Your Collection: If you already own some, take a magnifying glass to the holes. Check for those spiral patterns.
- Avoid "New" Pukas: If a seller says they have "harvested" new puka shells, be wary. Pukas are found, not harvested, because they are the remains of long-dead organisms.
The puka shell is a tiny piece of the ocean's history. Whether it’s a fashion statement or a cultural heirloom, it’s a reminder that the best things usually take time, salt water, and a lot of tumbling to become beautiful.