You’re walking down High Holborn, dodging commuters and tourists staring at Google Maps, when you see a fairly unassuming yellow-brick facade. It’s got some gold lettering on black, sure, but in a city like London, that’s basically the uniform. Step through the doors of the Princess Louise High Holborn, though, and the 21st century just... evaporates.
Honestly, it’s a bit of a shock.
One second you're in 2026, and the next you’re standing in 1891. Most "historic" pubs in London are actually just modern bars with some dark wood slapped on the walls. This place is different. It’s a Grade II* listed gin palace that looks so authentic it feels like a movie set, except the beer is real and the ghosts of Victorian lawyers are practically leaning against the bar.
The Secret of the Snob Screens
If you’ve ever felt like you just want to drink your pint without some stranger staring at you, the Princess Louise was literally built for you.
The most striking thing about the layout isn't just the mahogany; it’s the partitions. Back in 2007, the owners—the notoriously traditional Samuel Smith’s brewery—spent a fortune restoring the pub to its original Victorian floor plan. They put back the "snob screens."
These are these beautiful, etched-glass and mahogany dividers that slice the main bar into a series of tiny, private booths. In the 19th century, they were designed so the "upper classes" didn't have to make eye contact with the "riff-raff" while ordering. Today, they just make for the best drinking nooks in Central London. You get your own little door, your own little space, and a direct line of sight to the bartender.
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It’s cozy. It’s weird. It works.
A Masterclass in Victorian Bling
We need to talk about the ceiling. Seriously, look up. It’s a riot of gold-leafed Corinthian columns and ornate plasterwork that would look more at home in a palace than a boozer.
The craftsmanship here is legitimately insane. We're talking:
- Polychrome tile work: Done by W.B. Simpson and Sons (the same guys who did the tiles for the London Underground).
- Etched Glass: Signed by R. Morris & Son, real-deal 19th-century artisans.
- The Urinals: Yes, the men’s toilets are Grade II listed. They’re made of solid marble by J. Tylor & Sons. Even if you don't need to go, it's worth a peek just to see the Victorian obsession with "lavatorial magnificence."
The central island bar is the heart of the whole operation. It’s massive, topped with a four-sided clock, and surrounded by those weirdly intimate booths. It feels like the kind of place where a Dickens character would come to plot a financial ruin or a secret marriage.
The Samuel Smith Factor: Love It or Hate It
You can't talk about the Princess Louise High Holborn without mentioning the brewery that owns it. Samuel Smith’s is... unique.
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They don't sell Guinness. They don't sell Coke. They sell their own Yorkshire-brewed versions of everything. The Taddy Lager and the Organic Chocolate Stout are local legends, and they’re famously cheap for Zone 1 London. But there’s a catch.
They have rules. Real, enforced rules.
- No phones: If you're caught texting or scrolling, the staff will tell you to put it away or go outside.
- No swearing: They actually have a policy against profanity.
- No music or TVs: The idea is that you should actually, you know, talk to the people you're with.
For some, this is a "boomer" nightmare. For others, it’s a blissful sanctuary from the digital noise of modern London. There is something kind of refreshing about a pub where the loudest sound is the clink of glass and the hum of actual human conversation.
What Most People Get Wrong About the Name
People usually assume the pub is named after some obscure royal they’ve never heard of. It’s actually named after Princess Louise, Queen Victoria’s fourth daughter.
She was a bit of a rebel. A sculptor, an artist, and someone who reportedly had a fairly scandalous personal life. She lived at Kensington Palace and was basically the "cool" royal of her era. It’s fitting that the most beautiful pub in London bears her name, even if the exterior is a bit plain compared to the "jewel box" interior.
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Practical Tips for Your Visit
If you're planning to head over, keep these things in mind:
- Cash might be king: While things are changing, Sam Smith’s pubs have historically leaned towards cash. Bring some just in case, though most now accept cards.
- Timing is everything: After 5:00 PM on a Thursday or Friday, this place is packed with workers from the nearby legal offices and Holborn tech hubs. If you want to snag one of the booths (which you do), try a mid-afternoon Tuesday visit.
- Upstairs is different: There’s an upstairs dining room that’s a bit more relaxed and serves solid, no-nonsense British pub food like bangers and mash or steak and kidney pie.
- The "Secret" Entrance: There’s a side door that leads straight to the stairs if you want to bypass the main bar squeeze.
Why You Should Go
The Princess Louise High Holborn isn't just a place to get a drink; it’s a preservation project you can sit inside of. In a city that’s constantly being demolished and rebuilt into glass towers, this pub is a stubborn, beautiful anchor to the past.
Go for the architecture, stay for the cheap stout, and for the love of God, keep your phone in your pocket.
Your Next Steps:
- Check the hours: They are usually closed on Sundays, so don't make the trip then.
- Walk from the British Museum: It’s less than a ten-minute walk away, making it the perfect "post-culture" pint spot.
- Look for the signature: See if you can spot the "R. Morris & Son" signature etched into the glass near the bar—it’s a small detail that proves you’re looking at the real thing.