You’ve probably heard of Ketchikan. Maybe you've even stood on a cruise ship deck watching the Misty Fjords slide by. But just across the Clarence Strait sits something much bigger, weirder, and significantly more rugged. Prince of Wales Island is actually the fourth-largest island in the United States. It's massive. Yet, most people traveling through Southeast Alaska barely give it a glance because it doesn’t have the glitzy jewelry shops or the massive cruise docks of Juneau or Skagway.
Honestly? That’s exactly why it’s incredible.
It is a place of contradictions. You have over 2,000 miles of coastline, but much of the interior is defined by a labyrinth of logging roads. It’s a stronghold for Haida and Tlingit culture, yet it’s also a place where the scars of industrial timber harvests are visible from space. If you go, don't expect a polished tourist experience. Expect mud. Expect rain—a lot of it. Expect the kind of silence that feels heavy.
The Geography Most People Get Wrong
People tend to underestimate the sheer scale of the Prince of Wales Island (often just called POW by locals). We are talking about 2,231 square miles of land. To put that in perspective, it’s larger than the entire state of Delaware.
The geology here is fascinating because it’s largely "karst" topography. This means the island is basically a giant piece of Swiss cheese made of limestone. Underneath those towering Sitka spruces and Western red cedars lies one of the highest concentrations of caves in North America. These aren't just little holes in the ground; they are deep, complex systems like El Capitan Cave, which contains fossils proving that some animals survived the last Ice Age right here on the island in "refugia" while the rest of the continent was buried under ice.
It's wild to think about.
While the rest of the world was a frozen wasteland, there were likely bears and small mammals hanging out in these limestone pockets. Today, you can actually tour El Capitan, but it’s not a "walk-in" situation. You need a permit, a guide, and a willingness to climb 300-plus stairs just to reach the entrance. It's a workout.
Getting There is Half the Battle
There is no bridge. You aren't driving here from the mainland. Most people arrive via the Inter-Island Ferry Authority (IFA) from Ketchikan to Hollis. It’s a three-hour ride. Sometimes the water is glassy and you’ll see humpbacks breaching. Other times, the swells in the Clarence Strait will make you regret that second breakfast burrito.
Alternatively, you can take a floatplane.
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Flying into Craig or Klawock in a de Havilland Beaver is a quintessential Alaskan experience. You’re cramped. It smells like aviation fuel. But the view of the fragmented coastline—thousands of tiny islets scattered like breadcrumbs—is unbeatable.
Where Do You Actually Stay?
The island is dotted with small communities, each with its own vibe.
- Craig: This is the "big city." It has a grocery store (AC Value Center) that will shock you with its prices—think $10 for a gallon of milk. It’s the commercial hub and the best place to find a charter boat.
- Klawock: Just down the road from Craig. It’s famous for its totem park. Seriously, the Klawock Totem Park has 21 poles, many of which are replicas of originals from abandoned villages. It’s one of the best places in Alaska to see the evolution of Tlingit and Haida carving styles.
- Thorne Bay: Once the site of the largest logging camp in the world. Now, it’s a quiet jumping-off point for hunters and fishers.
- Coffman Cove: If you want to disappear, go here. It’s tiny, friendly, and sits right on the edge of the wilderness.
The Fishing Obsession
Let's be real: most people visiting Prince of Wales Island are there to kill something or catch something. The fishing is world-class. We aren't just talking about "good" fishing; we’re talking about "fill your freezer for the year" fishing.
King Salmon (Chinook) and Silvers (Coho) are the big draws. In late summer, the rivers like the Klawock River and Thorne River absolutely choke with fish. You can stand on the bank and see a literal wall of silver moving upstream. But the saltwater fishing is where the monsters live. Halibut the size of barn doors—sometimes over 200 pounds—lurk in the deep trenches surrounding the island.
The nuance here is in the regulations. Alaska Fish and Game doesn't mess around. If you’re coming up, you need to be hyper-aware of the daily limits and "slot limits" (sizes you have to release). It changes almost every year based on escapement numbers.
The Logging Legacy and the Road System
This is the part of the island's story that isn't always pretty. For decades, Prince of Wales was the epicenter of the Tongass National Forest logging industry. Thousands of miles of gravel roads were punched through the forest to get the timber out.
The result? A strange hybrid of wilderness and accessibility.
Unlike most of Southeast Alaska, where you are confined to the water or a few miles of pavement, on POW you can rent a truck and drive for hours. You’ll pass through "clear-cuts" in various stages of regrowth. Some look like ecological graveyards; others are lush with berry bushes (and the bears that eat them).
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It’s a controversial topic. You’ll meet locals who made their living in the woods and others who are fighting to protect the remaining "old growth." This tension is part of the island's DNA. You can't understand the place without acknowledging that the massive trees—the 500-year-old giants—are the very things that built the towns and then nearly disappeared.
Wildlife: It's Their Island, You're Just Visiting
Prince of Wales Island is home to a specific subspecies of gray wolf known as the Alexander Archipelago wolf. They are smaller and darker than their mainland cousins. They are also incredibly elusive. You probably won't see one, but you might find their tracks on a muddy logging road.
Bears, however, are a different story.
The island has one of the highest densities of black bears in the world. Curiously, there are no brown bears (grizzlies) on Prince of Wales. Why? Nobody is 100% sure, though many biologists think the dense forest and existing black bear populations kept the larger browns from ever establishing a foothold.
If you go hiking, you need to be "bear aware." This isn't a suggestion. It’s a requirement. Carry bear spray. Make noise. Don't leave your sandwich on a stump. These bears are generally not aggressive, but they are opportunistic and very, very large.
Culture and the Living Landscape
The indigenous history of the island is deep. The Haida migrated here from Haida Gwaii (in present-day British Columbia) several hundred years ago, settling primarily in the southern part of the island around Hydaburg. The Tlingit have been in the northern and central areas for much longer.
This isn't "museum" culture. It’s living.
In Hydaburg, you might see a new totem pole being carved in the carving shed. You’ll see smokehouses where salmon is being cured the same way it has been for generations. There’s a certain weight to the history here. When you visit places like the Chief Son-I-Hat Whale House in Kasaan, you're seeing the only remaining traditional Haida longhouse in the United States. It was restored in the 1930s by the CCC and stands as a staggering example of cedar architecture.
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Common Misconceptions About the Island
I see people post on forums all the time asking if they can "do" Prince of Wales in a day trip from Ketchikan.
Short answer: No.
Long answer: Absolutely not.
The ferry schedule alone makes a day trip impossible. Beyond that, the island is too big. You need at least four or five days just to see the highlights. Another thing? People think it’s going to be like a national park with paved paths and "You Are Here" signs. It's not. It’s mostly National Forest land, which is managed for "multiple use." That means you’ll share the road with logging trucks that have the right of way and will not stop for your rental SUV.
Also, don't rely on your GPS. Google Maps often thinks abandoned logging spurs are highway-standard roads. I’ve seen people get stuck in the middle of nowhere because they followed a digital line into a ditch. Buy a physical "Forest Service Map" at the ranger station in Thorne Bay or Craig. It will save your life. Or at least your tires.
Essential Gear You’ll Actually Need
Forget the fashion. If you’re on the island, you’re dressed for utility.
- Xtratufs: They call them "Ketchikan Sneakers." These are brown rubber boots. If you wear hiking boots, the muskeg (boggy ground) will swallow them. Xtratufs are the unofficial uniform.
- High-End Rain Gear: A $20 poncho will shredded by the brush in twenty minutes. You need heavy-duty Grundéns or Helly Hansen rubberized gear if you're fishing, or high-quality Gore-Tex if you're hiking.
- A Satellite Communicator: Cell service is non-existent once you leave the main towns. A Garmin inReach or similar device is essential if you’re heading into the interior.
- A Spare Tire (and the knowledge to change it): The gravel on the logging roads is sharp. Flat tires are a rite of passage here.
Actionable Insights for Your Trip
If you’re serious about visiting Prince of Wales Island, stop planning it like a standard vacation. It’s an expedition.
- Book the Ferry Early: The IFA ferry fills up, especially for vehicle spots. If you don't have a reservation, you aren't getting your truck on.
- Rent a Rugged Vehicle: Don't try to save money with a compact car. You need clearance and 4WD. Several local outfits in Craig and Hollis specialize in "island beaters" that can handle the gravel.
- Check the Tide Tables: Many of the best spots to explore, like salt chucks and coastal caves, are tide-dependent. A high tide can cut off your exit route if you aren't careful.
- Respect the Land: Much of the land around villages is "Corporation Land" owned by Sealaska or local village corporations. You often need a permit to hike or hunt on these private lands, even if they look like open forest.
Prince of Wales Island doesn't care if you have a good time. It’s raw, indifferent, and occasionally dangerous. But if you want to see what Alaska looked like before the t-shirt shops took over, there is no better place on the map. Pack your wool socks and prepare to get wet. It's worth it.
Next Steps for Your Journey:
- Download the Avenza Maps app and purchase the Tongass National Forest / Prince of Wales maps for offline use.
- Contact the Hollis Ferry Terminal to confirm current sailing schedules as they can shift with seasonal demand.
- If you plan on visiting El Capitan Cave, call the Thorne Bay Ranger District at least two weeks in advance to check guide availability and permit requirements.