You’ve heard of Ketchikan. You might’ve even taken a cruise ship through the Inside Passage and waved at the misty green shorelines from a balcony with a buffet plate in your hand. But honestly, most people sailing past have no idea they are looking at the third-largest island in the United States. Prince of Wales Island—or just "POW" if you’re trying to sound like a local—is basically a 2,200-square-mile labyrinth of karst caves, old-growth cedar, and more black bears than you’d ever want to meet in a dark alley. It’s bigger than Delaware. Yet, it feels like a ghost map compared to the tourist traps further north.
Most travelers skip it because it’s hard to get to. You don’t just "arrive" here. You commit. You’re either hopping on a tiny floatplane from Ketchikan that feels like a flying lawnmower or you’re timing the Inter-Island Ferry Authority (IFA) schedule just right to haul a truck over from Hollis.
The Roads Are the First Clue Something Is Different
If you’re used to the pristine, paved loops of a National Park, POW is going to give you a reality check real fast. The island is crisscrossed by over 3,000 miles of roads. That sounds like a lot until you realize the vast majority of them were built by logging companies decades ago. They aren't highways. They are gravel veins cutting through some of the densest Tongass National Forest territory on the planet.
Driving here is an exercise in scanning for tires and bears. You'll be cruising at 40 mph, wondering if the suspension on your rental can take another "whoop," and then suddenly, the canopy opens up to a view of the Klawock Mountains that literally stops your heart. It’s raw. It isn't manicured for Instagram.
People always ask if they need a 4x4. Technically? Maybe not in the summer on the main drags between Craig and Thorne Bay. But if you want to see the good stuff—the El Capitan Pit or the remote fishing holes near Whale Pass—you’d be a fool not to have high clearance. The island’s geography is a jagged mess of limestone and volcanic rock. It eats sedans for breakfast.
The El Capitan Cave Factor
One thing most people get wrong about Alaska is thinking it's all ice and glaciers. Prince of Wales Island is actually world-famous among geologists for its karst topography. We're talking about more than 500 mapped caves.
El Capitan Cave is the big one. It’s the deepest known cave in Alaska. To get in, you usually have to hike up a massive staircase—about 300+ steps—that makes your quads scream. But once you’re up there, looking at the fossils of black and brown bears that died 10,000 years ago, you realize this island is a giant time capsule.
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Fun fact: The presence of those ancient bones proved that the "Coastal Migration" theory was likely true. While the rest of the continent was buried under miles of ice during the last Ice Age, parts of Prince of Wales Island were "refugia"—ice-free pockets where life just... kept going. That’s why the deer here (Sitka Black-tails) look a little different. They’ve been doing their own thing for a long time.
Where Everyone Actually Lives
There isn't a "main city" on Prince of Wales Island. Instead, you have a collection of tiny, fiercely independent communities that all have completely different vibes.
Craig is the hub. It’s where the grocery store is. It’s a commercial fishing powerhouse. If you want a burger and a decent WiFi signal, you go to Craig. Klawock is right next door and is the heartbeat of the Indigenous Tlingit and Haida culture on the island. The Totem Park there is one of the most significant in the world, featuring 21 restored or replicated poles that tell stories much older than the United States.
Then there’s Thorne Bay. Back in the day, it was the largest logging camp in the world. It was a floating city. Now, it’s a quiet, scenic spot where people go to disappear. If you want to see what a "company town" looks like when the company leaves and the wilderness starts reclaiming the edges, Thorne Bay is it.
- Hydaburg: Located on the southern end, it's a stronghold of Haida culture and some of the best carving you'll ever see.
- Coffman Cove: A tiny spot on the northeast side that has basically become a haven for DIY hunters and fishermen.
- Naukati Bay: If you really want to feel like you’re at the end of the road, go here. The oyster farming is incredible.
- Point Baker and Port Protection: You might recognize these from reality TV. They aren't even on the road system. You get there by boat or you don't get there at all.
The Fishing Is Better Than the Hype
Let's talk about the salmon. And the halibut. And the rockfish.
Usually, when a travel writer says the fishing is "world-class," they mean it’s pretty good if you hire an expensive guide. On POW, the fishing is so ridiculous it feels like cheating. In August, the creeks are so thick with Pink and Silver salmon that you could almost walk across their backs. I’m barely exaggerating.
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The salt water is where the real monsters live. Halibut the size of barn doors are pulled out of the surrounding straits regularly. But what makes Prince of Wales special isn't just the size of the fish; it's the lack of crowds. In places like the Kenai Peninsula, you're doing "combat fishing"—shoulder to shoulder with five hundred other guys in neon vests. On POW, you can find a pull-off on the Harris River or Staney Creek and not see another human being for six hours.
It’s just you, the eagles, and the constant, nagging anxiety that a black bear is watching you from the brush. Which, let’s be honest, he probably is.
A Note on the Bears
Prince of Wales Island has one of the highest densities of black bears in the world. But here’s the kicker: there are no grizzly (brown) bears on the island. None.
Biologists aren't 100% sure why, but the theory is that the black bears here have evolved to be larger and more dominant because they don't have to compete with their bigger cousins. If you see a bear on POW, it’s a black bear. But don't get cocky. They can still be massive, and since they don't have grizzlies to worry about, they own the place. You have to carry bear spray. You have to make noise. You have to be smart with your fish guts.
The Weather Is a Personality Trait
You don't visit Prince of Wales for the sunshine. You visit for the fifty shades of grey. It’s a rainforest. It rains upwards of 100 to 160 inches a year depending on which side of the mountains you’re on.
The rain isn't always a downpour, though. Most of the time, it’s a "mizzle"—that misty drizzle that soaks through "waterproof" gear in about twenty minutes. The locals don't wear North Face or Patagonia. They wear Grundéns and Xtratuf boots. If you show up in shiny new hiking boots, everyone knows you're from "down south."
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The moss is the real winner here. It covers everything. It’s six inches thick on the fallen hemlock trees. It muffled the sound of the forest so completely that it can feel eerie. On a rare sunny day, however, the island transforms. The water in the Prince of Wales Passage turns a piercing emerald green, and the snow-capped peaks look close enough to touch. Those days are the "drug" that keeps people living here through the dark, wet winters.
Logistics: How to Actually Do This
If you’re serious about visiting, stop looking for luxury resorts. They don't really exist here, at least not in the traditional sense. You’ll find fishing lodges that range from "basic bunkhouse" to "high-end all-inclusive," but the best way to experience POW is to rent a cabin or an Airbnb and get a rig.
- The Ferry: Take the IFA from Ketchikan to Hollis. It takes about three hours. You can see whales, porpoises, and the occasional sea otter on the way. Book your vehicle spot months in advance.
- The Flight: North River Air or Island Air can get you there in 20 minutes. It’s pricey, but the view of the Clarence Strait is worth every penny.
- Groceries: Buy your heavy stuff in Ketchikan if you can. Prices in Craig are high because everything has to be barged in. Expect to pay $9 for a gallon of milk. It’s just the "island tax."
Is Prince of Wales Island Right For You?
This place is polarising. Honestly, if you need a spa, a nightlife scene, or a paved sidewalk, you will hate it here. It’s muddy. The bugs (no-see-ums) in July will try to carry you away. The cell service is spotty at best and non-existent at worst.
But if you want to see what Alaska looked like before the cruise ships arrived, this is the spot. It’s a place where people still work the land and the sea. It’s a place where you can find a prehistoric limestone arch or a hidden waterfall and know that you’re likely the only person who will see it that week.
It’s not "untouched" wilderness—the logging scars are visible everywhere—but it’s reclaiming wilderness. And watching the forest swallow up an old logging road is a pretty cool reminder of who really runs this island.
Actionable Next Steps for Your Trip
- Book the Ferry First: Before you even look at flights, check the Inter-Island Ferry Authority schedule. The ferry is the lifeblood of the island, and vehicle spots disappear fast, especially during the August Silver Salmon run.
- Rent a Satellite Communicator: Don't rely on your iPhone. Once you get ten minutes outside of Craig or Klawock, you are in a dead zone. A Garmin inReach or similar device is a literal lifesaver if you get a flat tire on a logging road.
- Invest in Xtratuf Boots: Don't argue. Just buy them. The "Alaska Sneaker" is the only thing that works in the slippery, muddy, barnacle-covered terrain of Prince of Wales.
- Contact the Forest Service for Cave Permits: If you want to see El Capitan, you need to check the current status of guided tours through the Thorne Bay Ranger District. You can't just wander in there on your own.
- Check the Tide Tables: Everything on the island revolves around the tide. If you’re beachcombing, fishing, or boating, knowing the difference between a +15 and a -3 tide is the difference between a great day and a stranded boat.