Most people think of Alaska and see a mental reel of massive, jagged ice walls or the flat, frozen tundra of the interior. They imagine Denali or the cruise ships clogging up Juneau’s narrow streets. But there’s this massive chunk of land tucked into the Alexander Archipelago that doesn't fit the postcard. Prince of Wales Island AK is the third-largest island in the United States—trailing only Hawaii’s Big Island and Kodiak—yet it feels like a secret. It’s huge. It’s rugged. Honestly, it’s a bit of a labyrinth.
The place is a maze of over 2,000 miles of coastline, thousands of miles of logging roads, and more muskeg than you can shake a stick at. You don't just "drop by" Prince of Wales. You commit to it.
The Reality of Getting There (And Staying Put)
If you're looking for five-star resorts and valet parking, you're in the wrong place. Seriously. Most visitors arrive via the Inter-Island Ferry Authority (IFA) from Ketchikan. It’s a three-hour ride across the Clarence Strait that can be glass-calm or stomach-turning depending on the mood of the Pacific. You’ll see locals hauling groceries, lumber, and maybe a truck or two. It’s the lifeline of the island.
Once you hit the dock in Hollis, you realize something immediately: you need a car. A real one. Prince of Wales Island AK is roughly 135 miles long. You aren't walking from town to town. Thorne Bay, Craig, Klawock, and Hydaburg are spread out like distant cousins who only see each other at weddings. The "road system" is a mix of paved highways and gravel logging spurs that can tear a sedan’s undercarriage to pieces.
The weather is... damp. Let's be real. It’s a temperate rainforest. You’ll get 100 inches of rain a year in some spots, maybe more. Everything is green, mossy, and slightly soggy. But that moisture is exactly why the Tongass National Forest here looks like something out of a prehistoric movie. Giant Western Red Cedars and Sitka Spruce tower over everything, dripping with lichen and history.
The Haida and Tlingit Connection
We can't talk about this island without acknowledging the deep, thousands-of-years-old roots of the Haida and Tlingit people. This isn't just "wilderness." It's home. Hydaburg, on the southern end, is a Haida stronghold where the carving traditions are alive and well. If you go, you’ll see some of the most intricate totem poles in the world. It’s not a museum display; it’s a living culture. Klawock, further north, has a world-renowned totem park that overlooks the water. It’s quiet there. You can feel the weight of the history.
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Why the Fishing Isn't Just "Good"
Ask any serious angler about Prince of Wales Island AK and their eyes might glaze over a bit. It’s legendary. The saltwater fishing in the Craig and Klawock area is world-class for King (Chinook) and Silver (Coho) salmon. But it's the sheer variety that gets you. You've got Halibut the size of barn doors sitting in the deep trenches. Lingcod that look like prehistoric monsters. Rockfish that are actually delicious if you know how to cook them.
The freshwater scene is just as wild. The Thorne River is famous. In the fall, when the Silvers are running, the water literally turns black with fish. You can stand on the bank and see thousands of them pushing upstream. It’s chaotic and beautiful. But here's the catch: the bears know.
The Bear in the Room
Prince of Wales has one of the highest densities of black bears in the world. They are everywhere. You’ll see them on the side of the road munching on berries. You’ll see them at the creek mouths. Interestingly, there are no brown bears (Grizzlies) on the island. It’s an ecological quirk of the archipelago.
But don't get complacent. A 400-pound black bear is still a 400-pound bear. Local experts like those at the Alaska Department of Fish and Game constantly remind visitors that these animals are habituated to the salmon runs, not to humans. Give them space. Lots of it.
The Underground Secret: El Capitan
Most Alaskans don't even know that Prince of Wales Island AK holds some of the most extensive cave systems in North America. The island is basically a giant block of karst limestone. Over millennia, the relentless rain has eaten away at the rock, creating deep, dark pits and sprawling caverns.
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El Capitan Pit is the famous one. It’s one of the deepest vertical pits in the United States. The Forest Service used to run guided tours into the upper reaches of the cave, where you can see incredible formations and even ancient animal remains. Some of the bones found in these caves have helped scientists rewrite the timeline of when animals (and possibly humans) first moved down the coast of Alaska during the last Ice Age. It turns out the "Ice-Free Corridor" theory has some competition from the "Coastal Migration" theory, and POW island is a huge piece of that puzzle.
A Working Island Economy
This isn't a manicured park. It's a working island. For decades, timber was king. You’ll see the scars of old clear-cuts, but you’ll also see the resilience of the forest as it grows back. Today, it’s a mix. Commercial fishing is the heartbeat. Small sawmills still hum. Tourism is growing, but it’s "rugged tourism." It’s people coming to hunt Sitka Black-tailed deer or to kayak the protected bays of the west coast.
There’s a grit to the towns. In Thorne Bay, which was once the largest logging camp in the world, people live in houses that were originally built on floats. It’s a place where everyone knows how to fix a chainsaw and a boat motor. If you break down on a remote logging road, the next person to drive by—which might be in three hours—will almost certainly stop to help. That’s just how it works here.
Logistics and Practicalities
- Groceries: Expect to pay more. A lot more. Most stuff comes in on the barge. Craig has the largest stores, like AC Value Center. If you’re staying in a remote cabin, stock up before you leave the "metro" areas.
- Communication: Cell service is spotty at best once you leave the main towns. If you're heading into the backcountry, a satellite messenger (like a Garmin inReach) isn't just a gadget; it's a safety requirement.
- Fuel: Gas is available in the main hubs, but don't let your tank get below a quarter. You don't want to be stuck in the middle of the island with a dry tank and no bars on your phone.
What Most People Miss
The North End. Most people stick to the central strip between Klawock and Thorne Bay. But if you head north toward Whale Pass and Nauhati, things get even more remote. The roads turn to dirt. The traffic disappears. You’ll find hidden estuaries where the only sound is the breath of a humpback whale surfacing in the distance.
There’s also the "Big Salt" area near Klawock. It’s a massive saltwater lagoon that fills and empties with the tides. Watching the current rip through the narrows is a lesson in the power of the Pacific. It's a great spot for bird watching—bald eagles are so common here they’re basically the local pigeons.
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Actionable Insights for Your Trip
If you're actually planning to visit Prince of Wales Island AK, stop thinking like a tourist and start thinking like a traveler.
Rent a truck, not a car. You want clearance and sturdy tires. Several local outfits in Craig and Klawock specialize in island-ready rentals. Check your spare tire before you leave the lot.
Plan for the ferry months in advance. The IFA ferry is reliable, but it fills up, especially in the summer months when the fish are running. If you're bringing a vehicle, book your spot as soon as your dates are set.
Respect the private property and Native lands. Much of the island is owned by Village Corporations (like Sealaska or Klawock Heenya). These aren't public parks. In many cases, you need a permit to hike or hunt on corporate land. Do your homework and buy the permits online or at the corporate offices in town. It keeps the relationship between visitors and locals healthy.
Pack for four seasons in one day. Wear layers. Synthetic or wool—never cotton. If you get wet in cotton on a 50-degree day, you’re on the fast track to hypothermia. A high-quality rain shell is your most important piece of gear.
Talk to the locals at the diner. Whether you're at the Hilltop in Klawock or a small cafe in Craig, the people who live here are your best resource. They know which roads are washed out, where the fish are biting, and which bays have the most bear activity. Just don't ask for their "secret" fishing hole—they won't tell you, and you'll just look like a tourist.
Prince of Wales Island AK doesn't care if you're there. It's indifferent, massive, and spectacularly beautiful. It’s a place that rewards the prepared and humbles the arrogant. If you go with an open mind and a sturdy pair of boots, it’ll change how you see the North forever.