You’re probably thinking about red sand and Anne of Green Gables. Honestly, most people do. When you start planning your Prince Edward Island travel itinerary, those two things sit right at the top of the pile, and for good reason—they’re iconic. But if you spend your entire week in Cavendish trying to find a girl with braids, you’re basically missing the soul of the island. PEI is tiny. You can drive the whole thing in about three hours if you're in a rush, but the locals will tell you that rushing is exactly how you ruin the experience.
It’s about the pace. It’s about that weird, salty mist that rolls off the Northumberland Strait and makes your hair look like a birds nest within ten minutes. People come here expecting a theme park, but what they find is a working island where the soil is stained red by iron oxide and the "world-famous" lobster was probably caught by the guy standing behind you in line at the gas station.
The Logistics of Getting Across the Water
Most people obsess over the Confederation Bridge. It’s an engineering marvel, sure. 12.9 kilometers of curved concrete that makes you feel like you're driving into the middle of the ocean. But here is the thing: it’s pricey. As of 2025, the toll for a standard passenger vehicle is over $50.00. You only pay when you leave the island, which feels a bit like a "thanks for coming, now pay up" tax, but it keeps the roads maintained.
If you want a better vibe, take the ferry from Caribou, Nova Scotia, to Wood Islands. Northumberland Ferries runs this service, and while it takes about 75 minutes, it’s a much more relaxed introduction to the province. You get the wind in your face and, if you’re lucky, some live fiddle music on the deck. It’s the superior way to start Prince Edward Island travel, mostly because it forces you to slow down before you even hit the dirt.
Where You Should Actually Sleep
Forget the big hotel chains in downtown Charlottetown for a minute. If you want the real deal, look for "Tourist Homes" or converted farmhouses in places like Victoria-by-the-Sea or St. Peters Bay. Victoria is tiny. It’s basically two streets and a chocolate shop. But staying there feels like stepping back forty years in a way that isn't manufactured for tourists.
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The Inn at Bay Fortune is another heavy hitter. It’s owned by Chef Michael Smith. It’s expensive. Like, "maybe I should have saved more" expensive. But the "FireWorks" feast they do there is a multi-course culinary event where everything is cooked over open flames. They use ingredients from their own farm. It’s not just a meal; it’s a four-hour commitment to the land you’re standing on.
Prince Edward Island Travel and the Myth of the "Best" Beach
Everyone goes to Cavendish Beach. It’s part of the Prince Edward Island National Park. It has the big facilities, the changing rooms, and the boardwalks. It’s also crowded. If you want the same red cliffs but without the crying toddlers and the struggle to find a parking spot, drive further east to Greenwich.
Greenwich is part of the National Park too, but it’s tucked away. It features a massive parabolic dune system. To get to the beach, you have to walk across a floating boardwalk that snakes over a pond. It feels like you’re on another planet. The sand is finer here, more golden than the deep brick-red you see in the central part of the island.
- Thunder Cove Beach: This is where you find the Teacup Rock—or what’s left of it. The original Teacup Rock famously collapsed during Hurricane Fiona in 2022. It was a tragedy for local photographers, but the coastline is still rugged, jagged, and beautiful.
- Basin Head Provincial Park: Home of the "Singing Sands." Because of the high quartz content in the sand, it actually squeaks when you walk on it. It’s a real thing. Not a gimmick.
- Brudenell River: Better for kayaking than swimming. The water is warmer because it’s sheltered.
Beyond the Red Gables: The Reality of Anne
Look, Lucy Maud Montgomery is the reason PEI has an economy. The house in Cavendish—the one with the green shutters—is a National Historic Site. It’s lovely. It’s also very busy.
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If you actually care about the history, go to the Anne of Green Gables Museum in Park Corner. It’s run by the Campbell family, who are descendants of Montgomery’s aunt and uncle. It’s the house where she actually got married. It feels lived-in. It feels real. You can take a carriage ride around the property with a guy who actually knows the family history, rather than a seasonal student reading from a script.
What to Eat (When You're Sick of Lobster)
You’re going to eat a lobster roll. Obviously. You’ll probably go to Richard’s Fresh Seafood in Covehead or Stanhope. There will be a line. You will wait 45 minutes. It will be worth it because they don’t skimp on the meat and they use a proper amount of butter.
But PEI is also the potato capital of Canada. Don’t sleep on the fries. Or the "Fries with the Works"—a local delicacy that involves fries, gravy, peas, and ground beef. It looks like a mess. It tastes like heaven after a day of hiking.
- Blueberry pie: The wild blueberries here are smaller and sweeter than the massive ones you find in grocery stores.
- Oysters: Malpeque oysters are famous globally. Go to a place like The Table in New London if you want to see how they pair them with local foraged greens.
- Moonshine: Visit Myriad View Distillery. They make "Strait Shine," which is a legal version of the stuff people used to brew in the woods during prohibition.
The Fiona Effect
It’s worth mentioning that the island is still healing. When Hurricane Fiona hit in September 2022, it changed the geography. It ripped trees out of the ground that had been there for a century. It eroded several meters of the coastline in a single night. When you're doing your Prince Edward Island travel, you’ll see gaps in the forests and new shapes in the dunes. The locals are resilient, but they’re also protective of the land now more than ever. Stick to the marked paths. The dunes are fragile. If you walk on them, you kill the marram grass that holds the island together. Don't be that person.
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The North Shore vs. The South Shore
The North Shore is the "wild" side. It faces the Gulf of St. Lawrence. The waves are bigger, the wind is stronger, and the cliffs are steeper. This is where the National Park sits. It’s dramatic.
The South Shore faces the Northumberland Strait. The water is significantly warmer—sometimes reaching 20°C (68°F) in the summer. It’s shallow. You can walk out for half a mile and the water will only be at your waist. The sand is much redder here because of the higher iron content. It’s the "gentle" side of the island. If you have kids, the South Shore is your best friend.
Practical Insights for Your Trip
Don't try to see the whole island in two days. You'll spend the whole time in your car looking at asphalt. Pick a region—Central, East, or West—and stick to it.
The West (North Cape Coastal Drive) is the most "authentic" and least touristy. It’s where the wind farms are. It’s where you’ll find the Potato Museum in O'Leary (which is surprisingly fun, mostly because of the giant potato statue outside).
The East (Points East Coastal Drive) has the best beaches and the oldest lighthouse on the island at Point Prim. The lighthouse is round, which is rare for PEI, and the views across the strait are massive.
Actionable Next Steps:
- Book your ferry or bridge crossing: If you’re taking the ferry, book a reservation online ahead of time, especially in July and August.
- Check the tide charts: Many of the best experiences—like clam digging or seeing certain rock formations—depend entirely on low tide. Use the Canadian Hydrographic Service website for accurate times.
- Pack for four seasons: Even in August, the temperature can drop 10 degrees the second the sun goes down or the fog rolls in. A windbreaker isn't optional; it's a survival tool.
- Download offline maps: Cell service is surprisingly spotty once you get away from Charlottetown and Summerside. Don't rely on live GPS in the middle of a potato field in Kings County.
- Buy a Parks Canada Discovery Pass: If you plan on visiting the National Park beaches more than twice, the pass pays for itself and saves you time at the entry gates.