You've probably been there. You are trying to slice a tomato for a sandwich, and instead of a clean cut, the blade just squishes the fruit into a watery mess. It is frustrating. Honestly, most people just keep using dull knives because they think sharpening is some "old world" craft involving whetstones and years of practice. That is where the Presto EverSharp electric knife sharpener usually enters the conversation.
It's cheap. It's fast. But there is a lot of bad advice floating around about what these little machines actually do to your expensive steel.
Some enthusiasts will tell you that electric sharpeners are "blade eaters." They claim these machines grind away so much metal that your favorite chef’s knife will look like a toothpick in six months. That is a bit dramatic. If you use it right, the Presto is a lifesaver. If you use it wrong? Yeah, you’re basically putting your kitchen tools through a miniature rock crusher.
The Two-Stage vs. Three-Stage Dilemma
Basically, Presto makes two main versions of this thing. You have the standard Presto 08800, which is a 2-stage model. Then you have the "Professional" 08810, which adds a third slot.
The 2-stage version uses Sapphirite grinding wheels. This is a fancy marketing term for a very hard synthetic abrasive. The first stage grinds the angle, and the second stage hones the edge. It works fine for your average "no-name" grocery store knives. However, the 3-stage professional version is where things get interesting. It has an adjustable blade selector. This is huge because a thin paring knife needs a different approach than a heavy hunting blade or a thick cleaver.
- Stage 1 (Coarse): This is for the "rescue missions." If your knife is truly dead, this stage grinds a new edge.
- Stage 2 (Medium): The workhorse. It refines that edge into something usable.
- Stage 3 (Fine): This uses a ceramic wheel to polish.
If you just need a quick touch-up, skip the first slot. Seriously. Most people ruin their knives by running them through the coarse stage every single time. You only need that once or twice a year unless you’re using your knives to cut through cardboard boxes or literal rocks.
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Why Your Knives Might Be "Sparking"
Don't panic if you see a few sparks. You are grinding metal against stone at high speeds. It’s science. But if you feel the motor "bogging down" or slowing, you are pressing too hard.
The Presto EverSharp electric knife sharpener is designed to do the work for you. You should just be guiding the blade through the slot. Think of it like drawing a bow across a violin string—smooth, steady, and light. If you push down, you’ll get an uneven edge, and you might actually stall the motor. These aren't industrial-grade grinders; they are home appliances.
What About Serrated Knives?
This is a point of massive confusion. Can you sharpen a bread knife with this? Kind of.
Official manuals often say you can use the fine/honing stage for serrated blades. You should never, ever put a serrated knife in the coarse grinding slots. It will destroy the "teeth" of the serration. By using only the final honing stage, you are just smoothing out the tips of those teeth. It helps, but it won’t make a dull bread knife feel like new again. For that, you really need a manual ceramic rod.
The Mess Nobody Talks About
Underneath the unit, there are these little red plastic plugs. Most people don't even know they exist until the machine starts making a weird rattling sound. Those plugs cover the "swarf" receptacles. Swarf is just a fancy word for the tiny metal filings that get ground off your knives.
Empty these at least once a year. If you don’t, the metal dust can build up and interfere with the wheels. It’s gross, gray dust, so do it over a trash can.
Is It Safe for High-End Japanese Steel?
Here is the honest truth: if you just spent $300 on a hand-forged Shun or Global knife, keep it away from an electric sharpener.
The Presto EverSharp electric knife sharpener uses fixed guides (usually set to a standard 20-degree angle). Many high-end Japanese knives are ground to a 15-degree angle. If you pull a 15-degree knife through a 20-degree machine, you are effectively "re-profiling" the blade. You’re changing the geometry of the tool. For a $20 Farberware knife, who cares? For a masterpiece of Japanese engineering, you’re basically committing kitchen sacrilege.
Practical Tips for Better Results
- Clean the blade first: Grease or food bits will gum up the Sapphirite wheels. Give the knife a quick wipe with a damp cloth before sharpening.
- The "One Second per Two Inches" Rule: If you have an 8-inch chef's knife, it should take you exactly four seconds to pull it through the slot. Any faster and you won't get an even edge. Any slower and you risk overheating the steel.
- The Suction Cups: They actually work, but only if the counter is clean. Moisten them slightly to get a "death grip" on your granite or laminate. A sliding sharpener is a dangerous sharpener.
- Watch the Tip: As you reach the end of the pull, lift the handle slightly. This follows the natural curve of the blade and ensures the tip actually gets sharpened instead of just rounded off.
Most people who hate the Presto EverSharp electric knife sharpener are usually overusing the coarse stage or pulling the knife through at a weird angle. If you treat it as a maintenance tool rather than a "fix-all" machine, it’ll keep your kitchen running smoothly for a decade. It’s loud, it’s a bit bulky, and it won't fit in a shallow junk drawer, but it beats the heck out of a dull blade.
Actionable Next Steps:
Check the bottom of your sharpener for those red dust plugs; if you've owned the unit for over a year, empty them today to prevent motor strain. When you next sharpen, try starting with the finest stage first to see if a simple polish restores the edge before you resort to the more aggressive grinding wheels.