Tinker Hatfield probably didn't realize he was starting a riot in 1987. When he sliced open the midsole of a running shoe to show off a literal bubble of air, people thought he’d lost his mind. It looked fragile. It looked weird. Fast forward nearly forty years, and we aren't just wearing these things to jog anymore. We’re hunting down the premium Nike Air Max 1 like it’s a religious relic. But here's the thing: most people buying "premium" today are actually just buying more expensive plastic.
The term "Premium" (often shortened to PRM in Nike-speak) used to mean something very specific. It meant you weren't getting the standard synthetic microsuede that pills after three wears. It meant heavy-tumbled leather, pigskin suedes, and maybe a crepe sole if you were lucky. Today, the market is flooded. You've got "’86 OG Big Bubble" releases, "Master" mashups, and enough "Anniversary" packs to make your head spin. If you're dropping $160 or $180 on a pair, you should probably know if the leather actually came from a cow or a lab.
The Anatomy of a Real Premium Nike Air Max 1
The difference is in the touch. Honestly, if you close your eyes and run your finger across a standard GR (General Release) pair and a top-tier premium, you'll feel the grit. Standard pairs use a lot of "durabuck." It’s basically a synthetic material designed to look like nubuck but feels like cardboard once it gets wet.
Real premium Nike Air Max 1 releases usually feature "SPSL" (Special) designations or belong to the "NH" (Natural Hemp) and "Crepe" families. Take the Air Max 1 '87 Luxe, for example. They didn't just swap colors. They changed the internal lining to satins or high-friction textiles that don't eat your socks. They used metal eyelets instead of punched-out plastic holes. It’s these tiny, tactile shifts that justify the price jump.
✨ Don't miss: Is 8 oz 1 cup? The Messy Truth Behind Your Measuring Spoons
You’ve also got to look at the "Swoosh" itself. On a standard pair, it’s often a flat piece of synthetic leather heat-pressed or cheaply stitched. On a premium iteration, you might see jewel swooshes—those small, 3D plastic gems that haven't been common since the late 90s—or even embroidered borders. It’s about the depth. A flat shoe is a boring shoe.
Why the 2023-2024 "Big Bubble" Changed Everything
Nike messed up the original Air Max 1. Well, they didn't mess it up, but they had to shrink the window because the large bubbles kept cracking in cold weather. For decades, we had the "small" window. Then, for Air Max Day recently, Nike brought back the "Big Bubble" (the '86 shape).
This is arguably the most "premium" the silhouette has felt in years. Why? Because they had to re-engineer the entire tooling. It’s not just a bigger hole; it’s a different pressure in the air unit. Collectors like Magdi Fernandes and DJ Clark Kent have spent years complaining about the "banana toe"—that annoying upward curve on cheap Air Maxes. The premium '86 releases finally flattened that out. It looks sleek. It looks fast. It looks like the sketch Tinker actually drew.
Material Science vs. Marketing Hype
Leather quality is a lie. Well, mostly. Nike doesn't often use full-grain, vegetable-tanned leather because it’s too heavy for a sneaker meant to be "airy." Instead, for a premium Nike Air Max 1, they use "top-grain" that’s been sanded and coated.
If you want the real deal, you look for collaborations.
- Patta: Their "Waves" series used a mix of ballistic mesh and incredibly soft leather.
- Kasina: These used pony hair and rich suedes that actually change color when you brush them.
- Concepts: They went wild with denim, corduroy, and velvet.
If you're looking at a pair and the "leather" looks shiny and feels like a basketball, it’s heavily coated in polyurethane. That's not premium; that's just waterproofed plastic. True premium leather will develop a patina. It’ll crease, sure, but those creases will look like character lines, not cracks in a sidewalk.
🔗 Read more: Why East Orange County NJ Isn't Exactly What You Think It Is
The Crepe Sole Debate
We have to talk about the crepe sole. Most Air Max 1s have a rubber outsole with the classic waffle pattern. But the "Crepe Hemp" or the "Soft Vinyl" packs use a raw, textured material that looks like something off a Clarks Wallabee.
Is it better? Not for grip. If you walk on a wet marble floor in crepe soles, you're going to end up on your back. But for comfort? It’s a game changer. It adds a layer of natural vibration dampening that the standard rubber just can't match. It’s the ultimate "lifestyle" upgrade for the premium Nike Air Max 1.
How to Spot a "Fake" Premium Release
Nike is a business. They know that putting "PRM" on a box allows them to tack on an extra $20. Sometimes, you're getting a better box and a tissue paper upgrade, but the shoe is the same. To avoid getting played, look at the "medial" (inside) side of the shoe. On a true premium, the stitching density—the number of stitches per inch—is significantly higher.
Check the tongue. Is it a thin piece of nylon with a raw edge? Or is it a padded, foam-backed leather tongue with a woven label? Most "bogus" premiums skimp on the tongue and the insole. A real premium pair usually has a cork insole or a molded OrthoLite base. If you pull out the insole and it’s just a flat piece of white foam, you’ve been hoodwinked by marketing.
The Resale Trap and Value Retention
The premium Nike Air Max 1 holds value better than almost any other Nike silhouette, excluding the Jordan 1. But there's a ceiling. You see people trying to flip "standard" PRM releases on StockX for $300, and they just sit there.
The value is in the "Shape." For a long time, from about 2010 to 2016, the Air Max 1 shape was terrible. The toe box was chunky and square. In 2017, for the 30th anniversary, Nike did a "Shape Correction." Any premium released after 2017 is generally considered superior to the mid-2010s era. If you’re buying vintage, be careful. The midsoles on these are made of polyurethane. They don't last forever. They crumble. A "premium" shoe from 2005 is now just a pile of orange dust and some nice leather scraps.
💡 You might also like: Why the Nike Air Jordan Retro 3 Black Cement is Still the Greatest Sneaker Ever Made
Maintenance is Non-Negotiable
You can't just throw these in the wash. If you bought a premium Nike Air Max 1 with real suede, water is your enemy. It’ll "flat" the nap of the suede, turning it from buttery soft to rough and shiny.
- Dry Brush First: Use a soft horsehair brush. Always.
- Erasers over Liquids: Use a suede eraser for scuffs on the mudguard.
- The Midsole Trick: Use a tiny bit of acetone on a cotton swab for the white midsole, but keep it away from the leather. It’ll strip the paint faster than you can blink.
Why the Air Max 1 Still Wins
At the end of the day, the Air Max 1 is the "adult" sneaker. It’s not as loud as a Jordan 4 or as "skater" as a Dunk. It’s sophisticated. When you get into the premium Nike Air Max 1 territory, you're wearing a piece of architectural history.
Tinker Hatfield was inspired by the Centre Pompidou in Paris—a building that has all its guts on the outside. That's the vibe. It’s transparent. It’s honest. Even if the "Premium" label is sometimes used loosely by Nike's marketing team, the silhouette remains the gold standard for anyone who actually cares about the history of footwear design.
Actionable Steps for the Aspiring Collector
- Check the Product Code: Google the SKU (e.g., DZ0482-200) before buying. Look for "on-foot" videos to see how the materials actually move.
- Feel the Inner Lining: If the collar is mesh, it’s a standard build. If it’s leather or microfiber, you’ve got a premium.
- Don't Fear the Crease: High-quality leather creases. If your shoes look brand new after ten wears, they’re probably plastic. Embrace the wear.
- Focus on the "Swoosh" shape: On premium pairs, the "tail" of the swoosh should point directly at the top eyelet. If it's sagging, the QC (Quality Control) wasn't there.
- Buy for the '86 Shape: If you have the choice between a 2024 PRM and a 2024 '86 OG, go for the '86. The historical accuracy and updated midsole tech provide a much better long-term experience.