Rome is different in January. The biting wind off the Tiber doesn't care about the majesty of the Esquiline Hill, yet it didn't stop a small, somber motorcade from threading through the city’s early morning traffic last week. No fanfare. No trumpets. Just a man in white heading to see an old friend. Pope Leo XIV prays before Pope Francis’ tomb in Rome, and for those of us watching from the sidelines, it felt like the definitive end of one era and the quiet, steady breath of another.
Since his election in May 2025, Leo XIV—the Chicago-born Augustinian formerly known as Robert Prevost—has had a whirlwind start. He’s had to close out a massive Jubilee year and navigate the complex legacy of a predecessor who fundamentally shifted how the Vatican breathes. But this visit to the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore wasn't about policy or synods. It was personal.
A Break from Vatican Tradition
If you’ve ever been to St. Peter’s Basilica, you know the vibe. It’s grand, it’s echoey, and most popes are tucked away in the grottoes below. Francis, ever the disruptor, decided he didn't want that. He chose Santa Maria Maggiore, a place he visited over 100 times during his papacy, usually to leave flowers for the Salus Populi Romani icon.
Leo XIV walked into that basilica knowing exactly why he was there. He didn't head for the high altar first. Instead, he went straight to the side aisle, tucked between the Pauline and Sforza chapels.
The tomb itself is startlingly simple. No gold. No elaborate marble statues of weeping angels. Just a slab of Ligurian marble with the word Franciscus carved into it. Seeing Pope Leo XIV prays before Pope Francis’ tomb in Rome in such a stripped-back setting reminds you that, at the end of the day, these are just men trying to carry a weight no one else can understand.
Why Santa Maria Maggiore Matters
Honestly, the location choice says more about Francis than any encyclical ever could. By choosing a basilica in the heart of the city—technically Vatican territory but physically surrounded by the noise of Rome—he stayed close to the "smell of the sheep" even in death.
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- The Icon: Francis had a deep, almost mystical connection to the Salus Populi Romani (Protectress of the Roman People).
- The People: It's more accessible than the high-security grottoes of St. Peter's.
- The History: He is the first pope in over a century to be buried outside the Vatican walls.
Leo XIV spent nearly twenty minutes in silence. He didn't use a kneeler. He just stood there, head bowed, hands clasped. You could see the steam of his breath in the cold air of the basilica. It was a bridge between the American pragmatism Leo brings to the office and the Latin American fervor that Francis left behind.
The Weight of the Succession
People keep trying to pit these two against each other. You see it on social media and in the more "traditionalist" corners of the press. They want a fight. They want Leo to undo everything Francis did. But watching the current Pope at that tomb, that narrative kinda falls apart.
Leo XIV has already started carving his own path—his new pastoral staff, featuring a risen Christ rather than the traditional crucifix, is a big hint that he’s focused on the "Resurrection" phase of the Church. Yet, by making this pilgrimage, he’s signaling continuity. He’s saying, "I see you, I hear you, and I’m carrying this forward."
The 2025 conclave was intense, but Leo’s election was seen as a move toward a "collaborative reset." He’s a guy who likes meetings. He likes consensus. Francis was more of a "lightning bolt" type of leader.
What Leo XIV is Changing (and What He Isn't)
While he honors Francis, Leo is definitely his own man. He’s already signaled that consistories—those big meetings of cardinals—will happen every year now. He wants the global Church to talk more.
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But the core mission? The focus on the poor, the emphasis on peace in a world that seems obsessed with war in 2026? That hasn't changed. When Pope Leo XIV prays before Pope Francis’ tomb in Rome, he’s essentially renewing a vow to those same principles.
Visiting the Tomb: What You Need to Know
If you’re planning to head to Rome to see the site yourself, things are a bit different than they used to be. The tomb is open to the public, but the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore has seen a massive uptick in visitors since the burial in April 2025.
- Timing is everything. Go early. Like, 7:00 AM early. The tour groups start arriving by 9:00 AM and the atmosphere changes from "sacred" to "souvenir-hunting" real quick.
- The Dress Code is Real. Don't be that person. Shoulders and knees covered, even if it's a heatwave. The ushers at Santa Maria Maggiore are polite but firm.
- Look Up. While you’re there for the tomb, don’t miss the ceiling. It’s supposedly gilded with the first gold brought back from the Americas. It’s a wild bit of history that ties the Old World to the New—much like the current Pope.
The tomb is located in the left nave. It’s easy to miss if you aren't looking for it because it’s so low-profile. Look for the small crowd of people standing in silence near the Pauline Chapel.
A Moment of Quiet in a Loud World
We live in a time where everything is a "take" or a "headline." Seeing the Pope take a morning off to go pray in a cold church feels... human. It’s a reminder that leadership isn't just about decrees; it's about memory.
Leo XIV is facing a tough 2026. There are wars that won't quit and a Church that is still trying to figure out how to talk to a digital generation. He needs all the help he can get, even if it’s just the spiritual kind from a slab of marble in a Roman basilica.
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What Happens Next?
Now that the Jubilee of Hope has wrapped up and the Holy Doors are closed, the "real" papacy of Leo XIV begins. We’re seeing a shift toward a more administrative, steady-handed approach. He’s less about the "surprise" and more about the "structure."
But the image of the white cassock against the dark marble of the tomb will linger. It’s the visual of a baton being passed, even if the one passing it is no longer here to see it.
If you're heading to Rome, make sure to walk the four kilometers from St. Peter's to Santa Maria Maggiore. It’s a long walk, but it gives you time to think. By the time you reach the tomb where Pope Leo XIV prays before Pope Francis’ tomb in Rome, you’ll understand why this specific spot matters so much. It isn't about the power of the papacy; it's about the simplicity of a final resting place.
To see the tomb yourself, check the daily Mass schedule at the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. Most pilgrims find that visiting during an early weekday Mass provides the most space for reflection. Bring a small prayer card or a single flower—white roses are a common sight on the marble lately—and take a moment to breathe in the history.