Point Lookout State Park is weird. I don't mean that in a bad way, but you can’t really sit on the beach there without feeling like someone is watching you from the pine trees. It’s located at the very southern tip of St. Mary’s County in Maryland, where the Potomac River finally gives up and crashes into the Chesapeake Bay. Most people go there to catch rockfish or let their kids splash in the water, but if you stay until the sun starts to dip, the vibe changes completely. It’s heavy.
There’s a reason for that. This isn't just a park; it was a prison.
The Grim Reality of Point Lookout State Park
During the Civil War, this beautiful peninsula was home to Camp Hoffman. It was a massive Union prisoner-of-war camp. Honestly, calling it a "camp" feels like a bit of an understatement. It was a nightmare. Between 1863 and 1865, over 50,000 Confederate soldiers were held here in what were essentially open-air pens. They didn’t have enough tents. They didn’t have enough blankets. When the wind whipped off the Chesapeake in January, men just... froze.
The numbers are actually staggering. Conservative estimates say around 4,000 men died there, though many historians and descendants argue the number is significantly higher because the record-keeping back then was, frankly, a mess. If you walk through the Confederate Cemetery today, you’ll see a massive monument. It’s the only Confederate cemetery maintained by the federal government. That tells you something about the scale of what happened on this patch of sand.
Why the geography made it a death trap
The very thing that makes Point Lookout State Park a great vacation spot today—the water on three sides—made it an inescapable cage in the 1860s. The land is incredibly low-lying. Even now, a good storm will flood the main road. Back then, the high water table meant that digging a latrine was basically impossible without contaminating the drinking water. Disease ran rampant. Smallpox, scurvy, chronic diarrhea. It wasn't the bullets that got them; it was the damp and the dirt.
Haunted or Just Sad?
You can’t talk about Point Lookout State Park without talking about ghosts. It is widely considered one of the most haunted places in America. Paranormal investigators like Hans Holzer have spent decades poking around the old lighthouse. People report seeing a man in a ragged uniform crossing the road. Others swear they hear the sound of boots on the floorboards of the light station.
I’m usually a skeptic about this stuff. But there is a specific kind of silence at the point. Even when the park is crowded with campers and RVs, the area near the old Fort Lincoln feels hollow.
The lighthouse itself is a major draw. Built in 1830, it’s a stout, unassuming building that has seen more tragedy than any one structure should. It wasn't just the war; the lighthouse keepers lived isolated, grueling lives. There are stories of a female spirit, perhaps a keeper's relative, who still wanders the halls. The Maryland Department of Natural Resources occasionally opens it for tours, but most of the time, you’re stuck looking at it through a fence, which honestly adds to the creepiness.
What You Can Actually Do There Today
If you can get past the ghosts, the park is actually a powerhouse for outdoor recreation. It’s huge. We're talking 1,000-plus acres.
- Fishing is the main event. The pier at Point Lookout is legendary. People pull in massive striped bass (rockfish), bluefish, and croaker. You don't even need a boat, though there is a boat launch if you've got one.
- The Campground. It’s one of the most popular in Maryland. There are 143 campsites. Some have full hookups for the big rigs, and others are just a patch of grass for your tent. If you want a spot in July, you better book it months in advance.
- The Civil War Museum. It’s small. It’s tucked away. But you have to go. They have artifacts pulled right out of the muck—buttons, bottles, minié balls. It puts the suffering of the prisoners into a very physical perspective.
The beach area has lifeguards during the summer, which is great for families. But be warned: the sea nettles (jellyfish) show up in late July and August. They will ruin your day. If the water looks like it’s full of floating plastic bags, stay out.
A Note on the "Point" Itself
The actual tip of the peninsula is constantly shrinking. Erosion is eating Point Lookout State Park alive. Every year, the Chesapeake Bay takes a little bit more of the shoreline. The park service has been dumping "rip-rap"—those big jagged rocks—everywhere to try and slow it down, but nature is winning. It gives the whole place a sense of urgency. You should see it now, because in fifty years, the geography might look totally different.
Exploring the Nature Trails
Most people stick to the water, but the Periwinkle Trail is worth your time. It’s a short loop, maybe 1.5 miles. You get to see the marshy interior of the park. It’s prime territory for bird watching. Bald eagles are everywhere here. I’ve seen them perched on the dead trees near the causeway, just watching the traffic. It’s a weird contrast—this majestic bird of prey sitting over a place where so many people suffered.
The pines are thick and the ground is often muddy. Wear boots. Don't be the person trying to hike a Maryland marsh in flip-flops. You’ll lose a shoe to the suction, and the mosquitoes will treat you like a buffet.
The Logistics: What to Know Before You Drive Down
The park is at the very end of Maryland Route 5. You literally cannot go any further south without a boat.
- Entry Fees: They vary. During the "on" season (weekends and holidays from May to September), it’s usually around $5 per person for Maryland residents and $7 for out-of-staters.
- Hours: The park is open 8 a.m. to sunset. They are strict about this. If you aren't camping, the rangers will move you along once the sun goes down.
- Supplies: Buy your ice, bait, and beer in Ridge or Great Mills before you get to the park. The camp store has some basics, but the prices are exactly what you’d expect for a place with a monopoly on the nearest five miles.
The Confederate Memorial
The cemetery is a somber place. It’s located just north of the main park entrance. There’s a massive granite obelisk. It was erected by the federal government because, after the war, the individual graves of the prisoners were being lost to the elements and the tides. They moved the remains to this central location.
Standing there, looking at the names—or the lack of names—you realize how many families never got closure. These guys weren't just soldiers; they were farm kids from Georgia and North Carolina who died thousands of miles from home in a swamp.
Is Point Lookout State Park Worth the Trip?
Absolutely. But don't go expecting a manicured, "Disney" version of a state park. It’s raw. It’s windy. It’s a bit rough around the edges.
The water is brackish—a mix of salt and fresh—which means the ecosystem is incredibly diverse. You’ll see ospreys diving for fish, blue crabs scuttling along the rocks, and maybe even a stray dolphin if you’re lucky and the tide is right.
It’s a place of dualities. It is a place of recreation built on top of a place of mourning. You can have a great barbecue at a picnic table that sits right where a prison hospital used to be. That’s the American experience in a nutshell, isn't it? We build playgrounds on our battlefields.
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Actionable Steps for Your Visit
- Check the Tide Charts: If you’re fishing or want to walk the beach, the tide matters. High tide swallows a lot of the walking space. Low tide reveals some cool driftwood and shells, but it can get smelly.
- Bring Bug Spray: I cannot stress this enough. The biting flies and mosquitoes at Point Lookout are legendary. They don't care about your "all-natural" lemon oil. Bring the heavy-duty DEET.
- Visit the Museum First: Go to the visitor center and museum before you head to the lighthouse or the beach. It provides the context you need to appreciate what you’re looking at.
- Pack a Picnic: There aren't many food options once you're in the park. Grab some Maryland crab cakes on your way down through St. Mary's County and eat them at the water's edge.
- Check for Ticks: If you venture off the paved paths or the beach, check yourself. The tall grass is tick heaven.
Point Lookout State Park is a rare spot where Maryland’s natural beauty and its darkest history collide. Respect the land, watch the water, and maybe say a little "hello" to the ghosts. They've been there a long time.