People usually get Pohang wrong. If you ask a random person in Seoul about it, they’ll probably just say "POSCO" and shrug. They think of chimneys, heavy industry, and a grey skyline dominated by one of the world’s largest steelmakers. They aren't wrong, exactly. But they are missing the point. Pohang-si Gyeongsangbuk-do is actually one of the most underrated coastal escapes in South Korea, balancing a gritty industrial heart with some of the most dramatic ocean views on the peninsula.
It’s big. Spreading across the eastern coast, it’s a city of contrasts. You have the massive industrial complexes on one side of the Hyeongsan River and then, suddenly, you're looking at the Space Walk—a massive, looping staircase that looks like a roller coaster for pedestrians. It’s weird. It’s cool. And honestly, it’s a lot more than just a company town.
The Reality of Pohang-si Gyeongsangbuk-do
When you first roll into town, the scale of the industry hits you. POSCO (Pohang Iron and Steel Co.) isn't just a factory; it's a sovereign state of metal. Since the late 1960s, this company has basically been the spine of Korea's economic miracle. But don't let the steel talk bore you. The city has spent the last decade pivoting hard toward tourism, and it’s working.
Most people come for the sunrise. Homigot Sunrise Square is the spot. It’s the easternmost point of the Korean peninsula (if you don't count the islands), and it features the "Hand of Harmony." You’ve probably seen the photos: a giant bronze hand rising out of the East Sea, with another matching hand on the land facing it. It’s meant to symbolize the struggle and harmony of the Korean people. At dawn, when the sun sits right in the palm of the hand, it’s genuinely moving. Even for cynics.
Beyond the Hand: The Space Walk and Urban Shifts
The Hwanho Park Space Walk is the new king of Pohang's skyline. Built by POSCO (of course) and designed by German artists Heike Mutter and Ulrich Genth, it’s a 333-meter-long track. You walk up it. The views of Yeongildae Beach and the industrial lights across the bay are incredible at night. It wobbles slightly. That’s intentional, but it’ll definitely make your heart race if you're afraid of heights.
🔗 Read more: Madison WI to Denver: How to Actually Pull Off the Trip Without Losing Your Mind
Local tip: Don't go on a windy day. They close it for safety, and there is nothing sadder than trekking up the hill just to stare at a locked gate.
The Food Scene: More Than Just Cold Fish
If you're in Pohang-si Gyeongsangbuk-do, you have to talk about Mulhoe.
Basically, it’s "water sashimi." Sounds strange? It’s basically raw fish (usually rockfish or flounder) served in a spicy, icy broth with vegetables. Pohang style is specific. Unlike the versions you find in Sokcho or Jeju, Pohang Mulhoe often starts with a thick gochujang-based paste and very little liquid, allowing you to mix it first before adding ice or water. It’s refreshing, spicy, and the ultimate hangover cure.
- Jukdo Market: This is the belly of the city. It’s one of the largest traditional markets in the Gyeongsang region. You can get lost in the alleys dedicated entirely to dried fish, or find the "Su-jebi" (hand-torn noodle soup) alley where grandmothers have been rolling dough for forty years.
- Gwamegi: This is the city’s most famous seasonal specialty. It’s half-dried Pacific herring or saury. It’s oily, chewy, and smells... strong. You wrap it in seaweed with garlic and chives. It’s an acquired taste, for sure. But in the winter months, locals live for it.
Why the Drama Scene Loves This Place
If you've watched Hometown Cha-Cha-Cha or When the Camellia Blooms, you’ve already seen Pohang-si Gyeongsangbuk-do without realizing it.
💡 You might also like: Food in Kerala India: What Most People Get Wrong About God's Own Kitchen
The production teams chose the Guryongpo and Cheongha areas for a reason. These spots feel like time capsules. Guryongpo Modern History Street, in particular, has a heavy atmosphere. It was a Japanese settlement during the colonial era, and the wooden architecture has been preserved. It’s beautiful but carries a complex, somewhat heavy history. Walking through there feels different than the shiny, neon parts of the city center. It’s quiet. A bit haunting.
The Logistics of Getting There
Pohang isn't as close to Seoul as you might think. It’s a trek.
- KTX: The fastest way. Takes about 2.5 hours from Seoul Station. The station is a bit outside the main city center, so you’ll need a taxi or bus once you land.
- Express Bus: Cheaper, but you’re looking at 4.5 hours minimum. Great if you want to see the changing landscape of the interior, but tough on the lower back.
- Flying: Pohang-Gyeongju Airport exists, but flights are limited. It’s mostly for those coming from Jeju or the occasional Gimpo flight.
The city isn't perfectly walkable. You need the bus system or Kakao Taxi. The 207 bus is your friend for getting between the main coastal spots.
Science and the Future
Wait, science? Yes. Pohang is home to POSTECH (Pohang University of Science and Technology). It’s basically the MIT of South Korea. Because of this, the city has a massive population of researchers and students from all over the world. This gives certain neighborhoods, like Jigok, a very different, suburban, academic vibe.
📖 Related: Taking the Ferry to Williamsburg Brooklyn: What Most People Get Wrong
There’s also the Pohang Accelerator Laboratory. It houses a fourth-generation synchrotron radiation facility. Only a few countries have this tech. It’s a massive circular building that uses light to study atoms. You probably won't visit it as a tourist, but it’s the reason why Pohang is a hub for high-tech materials, not just old-school steel.
What Most People Get Wrong
The biggest misconception is that Pohang is dirty because of the factories.
In reality, the city has some of the cleanest urban beaches in the country. Yeongildae Beach has a pavilion built out over the water that looks stunning when the POSCO factory lights up across the water at night. It’s a weirdly romantic view—industrial fire meeting the dark ocean.
Is it "pretty" like a tropical island? No. It’s "cool" like a cyberpunk movie set.
Actionable Steps for Your Visit
If you're planning to head to Pohang-si Gyeongsangbuk-do, don't try to see it all in a day. It’s too spread out.
- Day 1: The Coastal Loop. Start at Homigot for the sunrise (if you’re an early bird), then head to Guryongpo for the history and a bowl of Mori-guksu (a spicy seafood noodle soup).
- Day 2: The Urban Core. Hit Jukdo Market for lunch, walk the Space Walk in the afternoon, and finish with beer and fried chicken at Yeongildae Beach at night.
- Check the Weather: The East Sea can be moody. If there’s a high wind warning, the coastal trails and the Space Walk will be closed. Check the local meteorological reports before you commit to the long KTX ride.
- Stay in Buk-gu: If you want the nightlife and beaches, stay in the northern district (Buk-gu). If you’re there for history and the "drama tour," look at pensions in Guryongpo or Cheongha.
Pohang is a city that doesn't try to hide what it is. It’s a place of work, a place of high-stakes science, and a place of incredible natural beauty. It’s messy and loud and salty and metallic. And that is exactly why it’s worth the trip. Forget the "industrial" label—just go for the Mulhoe and stay for the lights.