Finding out you have a plus size hourglass body shape feels like winning the genetic lottery until you actually try to go shopping. It’s a bit of a paradox. On paper, you’re the "ideal" silhouette—balanced shoulders and hips with a waist that actually exists—but in reality, modern fast fashion is mostly cut for rectangles. If you’ve ever cried in a dressing room because a dress fit your hips but gaped six inches at the back of your waist, you know exactly what I’m talking about.
Standard retail sizing is notoriously linear. It assumes that as we get bigger, we get wider in a uniform, blocky way.
But hourglasses don't work like that.
Defining the Real Plus Size Hourglass
Let’s get the math out of the way first. An hourglass shape isn't about being a specific dress size. You can be a size 16 or a size 26 and still be an hourglass. Technically, the fashion industry (and researchers like those at North Carolina State University who study body scanning) defines an hourglass as having a bust and hip measurement that are nearly equal, with a waist that is at least 8 to 10 inches smaller.
It’s about the ratio.
Honestly, though, mirrors tell better stories than tape measures. If you look at yourself and see that your shoulders align vertically with your hips, and your midsection carves inward like a literal sand-timer, that's you. But there’s a nuance people miss: the "top-heavy" or "bottom-heavy" hourglass. Sometimes your bust is slightly larger (Top Hourglass) or your thighs carry a bit more weight (Bottom Hourglass), but the central pivot point—that defined waist—remains the star of the show.
The Struggle with "Standard" Plus Size Clothing
Most plus-size brands design for the "Apple" or "Round" shape. They assume we want to hide everything under a tent. For a plus size hourglass body shape, this is a disaster. If you wear a sack dress, you look twice as big as you actually are because the fabric hangs from the widest point of your bust or hips, completely erasing the narrowest part of your frame.
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You end up looking like a box. It’s frustrating.
You’ve probably noticed that "curvy fit" jeans are finally becoming a thing. Brands like Madewell, Abercrombie & Fitch (their Curve Love line), and American Eagle have started acknowledging that a human can have a 12-inch difference between their waist and seat. Before this, we were all just living in Belt Land, cinching everything until the fabric bunched up awkwardly.
Fabric Choice Is Actually More Important Than Cut
Let’s talk about jersey vs. woven fabrics. This is where most people mess up.
If you have a plus size hourglass body shape, stiff fabrics are your enemy unless they are perfectly tailored. Think about a stiff, heavy denim jacket. It hits your chest, stays straight, and makes you look incredibly bulky. Now, think about a wrap dress in a heavy matte jersey or a high-quality ponte knit. These fabrics "skating" over the curves is what you want.
- Ponte Knit: Thick enough to provide structure but stretchy enough to follow the curve.
- Stretch Poplin: Great for button-downs that won't gap at the chest.
- Bias-cut Silks: These are tricky but beautiful because the fabric is cut on the diagonal, allowing it to naturally expand and contract over hips.
Avoid anything too "crisp" like heavy linen or stiff taffeta unless you’re prepared to pay a tailor. Tailoring isn't just for celebrities. Honestly, getting a $30 shirt taken in at the waist for $15 is the single best investment you can make.
The Myth of the Waist Belt
Everyone tells hourglasses to "just put a belt on it."
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Kinda reductive, right?
While defining the waist is the goal, the wrong belt can actually ruin the line. A super thin belt on a plus-size frame often gets lost or looks like it's struggling. A medium-to-wide belt usually works better, but it has to hit the natural waist—the smallest part of your torso—not the hips.
Actually, the best "belt" isn't a belt at all. It’s construction. Look for "nipped" waists, princess seams, or peplum tops. Princess seams are those vertical stitches that follow the curve of the bust down to the waist. They create a 3D shape rather than two flat pieces of fabric sewn together.
Celebs Who Get It Right
We can learn a lot from how stylists dress people like Ashley Graham or Precious Lee.
Ashley Graham is the queen of the bodycon, but she doesn't just wear "tight" clothes. She wears structured clothes. Notice how she often uses monochromatic colors to create a long, unbroken vertical line, which prevents the "chopped in half" look that can sometimes happen when you have a very short torso—a common trait for hourglasses.
Precious Lee often leans into high-waisted silhouettes. High-waisted trousers are basically a cheat code for the plus size hourglass body shape. They sit at the smallest part of the body and let the hips be as wide as they want to be without creating "muffin top" or discomfort.
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Let’s Talk About the "Internal" Architecture
Shapewear is a polarizing topic. Some people love the "held-in" feeling, others find it restrictive. If you’re in the "no thanks" camp, that’s totally fine. But for those who want that smooth finish, the goal isn't to change your size. It's about creating a smooth canvas so your clothes drape better.
Brands like Honeylove or Skims have moved away from the "suffocate yourself" model of the early 2000s. They focus more on targeted compression. For an hourglass, you want something that smooths the thighs and lower stomach without flattening the butt or the chest.
Style Moves to Avoid (Or Approach with Caution)
- High Necks with No Structure: A turtleneck on a large-busted hourglass can create a "monobosom" effect. It’s just a wall of fabric. If you love a high neck, break it up with a long necklace or a V-neck cardigan over it.
- Low-Rise Anything: Just don't. It’s not meant for us. It will slide down your hips and gap at the back. It’s a literal uphill battle.
- Boxy Crop Tops: These work if they are very short and paired with something high-waisted, but if they hit at the mid-waist, they turn your hourglass into a square.
Practical Next Steps for Your Wardrobe
Stop buying clothes for the body you think you should have or the "standard" version of plus size.
Start by identifying your "hero" pieces. For most hourglasses, this is a well-fitting wrap dress. Diane von Furstenberg made it famous, but you don't need designer prices. Look for versions with a wide tie-waist.
Next, audit your closet for "The Gap." If you have skirts or pants that fit your hips but are loose at the waist, take them to a local dry cleaner that does alterations. Ask them to "add darts" to the back. It’s a cheap fix that makes a $20 skirt look like it was custom-made for you.
Finally, embrace the tucked-in look. Even if you have a stomach—which many plus-size hourglasses do—tucking in your shirt highlights the curve from your waist to your hip. It creates a silhouette that looks intentional and polished.
Focus on highlighting the balance you already have. You aren't trying to create a shape; you're just trying to stop your clothes from hiding the one you've already got. Stay away from "oversized" trends that don't have a way to cinch, and stick to fabrics that move with you rather than against you.
Invest in a good bra. Seriously. If your bust isn't lifted and supported, your "waist" disappears because the distance between your chest and your hips gets compressed. A professional fitting can change how every single shirt in your closet looks. That's the real foundation of styling this shape.