Walk into any Tractor Supply or local feed mill and you’ll see those giant, plastic-wrapped cubes of wood shavings stacked to the ceiling. It’s basically the universal wallpaper of the backyard poultry world. For years, pine bedding for chickens has been the default choice for everyone from suburban hobbyists with three Silkies to serious homesteaders managing a flock of fifty. But lately, if you spend enough time in chicken-keeping forums or on "Chicken TikTik," you’ve probably seen people sounding the alarm. They talk about "respiratory distress" or "phenols" like they’re discussing a toxic waste spill. It’s enough to make you stare at your coop floor and wonder if you’re accidentally poisoning your birds.
Honestly? Most of that panic is a bit overblown, provided you're buying the right stuff.
What is the deal with pine bedding for chickens anyway?
Most people pick pine because it's cheap. That's the reality. It smells like a fresh forest, it’s easy to muck out with a pitchfork, and it absorbs moisture reasonably well. But the science behind why we use it—and why some people hate it—comes down to those aromatic hydrocarbons called phenols. These are the compounds that give pine that distinct, sharp scent. In high concentrations, specifically in un-kiln-dried shavings, these phenols can irritate the delicate respiratory linings of birds. Chickens have a unique respiratory system. They don't just breathe with lungs; they have a complex system of air sacs. If the air is thick with "pine smell," their lungs are working overtime.
This is why you’ll hear experts like Dr. Brigid McCrea, a poultry specialist, emphasize that the quality of the shaving matters more than the species of wood. If you buy "kiln-dried" pine bedding for chickens, the heat from the drying process evaporates the vast majority of those volatile oils. The result is a stable, dry, and relatively inert material. If you’re using green, wet, or air-dried shavings from a local sawmill, you might actually be asking for trouble. Those are the shavings that feel slightly damp or have an overwhelming, "hit-you-in-the-face" pine scent.
The great debate: Pine vs. Cedar
If there is one thing you should never, ever put in your coop, it’s cedar. Seriously. Just don't do it. While pine bedding for chickens is generally safe when kiln-dried, cedar is a different beast entirely. Cedar contains much higher levels of plicatic acid. It’s been linked to asthma and respiratory issues in humans and laboratory animals. In a confined space like a chicken coop, cedar can be downright lethal over time. Some folks try to mix a little cedar in to "repel mites," but the risk to the birds’ lungs far outweighs any minor pest control benefits. Stick to pine. It's the safer middle ground.
Size actually matters
You have two main choices: large flake or fine shavings. Large flakes are beautiful. They look clean, they don't get stuck in feathers as easily, and they create a nice, springy floor. However, they aren't the best at absorbing liquid. If you have a leaky waterer, large flakes will just let the water sit on the floor underneath them. Fine shavings, often called "fine crumble" or "sawdust style," are like sponges. They soak up everything. The downside? Dust. Oh, the dust.
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Chickens are dusty creatures by nature. They produce dander and powder down. Add fine pine dust to that, and your coop will look like a flour mill within a week. For most people, a "medium flake" is the sweet spot. It offers enough surface area for absorption without turning the coop into a giant cloud of irritants.
Managing the "Deep Litter" Method
Many keepers use pine bedding for chickens to facilitate the deep litter method. This isn't just "not cleaning the coop." It’s a biological process. You start with a few inches of pine, and as the birds poop, you add more pine on top. You stir it occasionally. Over months, the bottom layer begins to compost. This creates heat, which can be a lifesaver in bitter northern winters.
But here is the catch.
If the carbon-to-nitrogen ratio gets out of whack—meaning too much poop and not enough pine—you get ammonia. Ammonia is heavier than air. It sits right at the level where your chickens sleep. If you can smell ammonia when you open the coop door, your chickens have been breathing it for hours. That’s when the "safe" pine bedding stops being safe. The moisture from the droppings reacts with the bedding, and if it’s too wet, the whole system collapses into a stinky, anaerobic mess.
- Start with 4 to 6 inches of kiln-dried pine.
- Turn the bedding every few days with a rake.
- Add a fresh layer whenever the surface looks "capped" or matted.
- Ensure your coop has ventilation above the birds' heads.
What about the alternatives?
Is pine the absolute best? Not necessarily. It’s just the most accessible.
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Hemp bedding is the new darling of the poultry world. It’s incredibly absorbent—way more than wood—and it’s virtually dust-free. It also doesn't have the phenol issue. The problem? It’s expensive. You might pay $30 for a bag of hemp that covers the same area as a $7 bag of pine. For someone with a small urban coop and two hens, hemp is a no-brainer. For someone with a 10x12 shed full of layers, that bill adds up fast.
Straw is another classic. It’s cheap and looks "farmy." But straw is hollow. It doesn't absorb moisture; it just traps it inside the tubes. This often leads to mold, specifically Aspergillus, which causes a nasty respiratory infection called Brooder Pneumonia. Unless you are changing straw every single day, it’s usually a worse choice than pine bedding for chickens.
Sand is the other big contender. Some people swear by construction-grade sand. It’s like a giant litter box. You scoop the poop every morning, and the floor stays dry. It’s great for drainage and keeping claws blunt. But sand is cold in the winter and can be a nightmare if it gets truly saturated with water. It offers zero insulation value compared to wood shavings.
The real-world verdict on safety
A study published in Poultry Science years ago looked at different litter types and their impact on footpad dermatitis (bumblefoot). Pine shavings consistently perform well because they stay relatively friable—meaning they don't clump into hard "bricks" as easily as straw or hay. When pine bedding for chickens stays dry, it cushions the feet and prevents the tiny cuts that allow staph infections to take hold.
The "toxic pine" argument usually stems from studies on lab mice that spent 24/7 in direct contact with shavings in small, unventilated plastic bins. Your chickens (hopefully) aren't living in a plastic bin. They have a coop with a door, windows, and hopefully some soffit vents. In a well-ventilated environment, the trace amounts of phenols remaining in kiln-dried pine are negligible.
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Practical steps for your coop
Don't overthink it, but don't be lazy about it either. If you want to use pine bedding for chickens effectively, you need a strategy.
- Check the label. If it doesn't say "kiln-dried," put it back.
- The Scent Test. Open the bag. If the smell is so strong it makes your eyes water or feels "sharp" in your nose, it’s too fresh. Let the bag sit open in a garage for a few days before putting it in the coop.
- Watch the dust. If you notice your birds are sneezing or have bubbly eyes, the bedding might be too fine. Switch to a larger flake.
- Keep it dry. This is the golden rule. Water is the enemy of wood bedding. If your waterer leaks, shovel out the wet pine immediately. Wet pine + heat = bacteria and ammonia.
One thing people forget is the "dust bath" factor. Chickens will naturally try to dust bathe in their bedding. If you use pine, make sure you're also providing a dedicated dust bath area with actual dirt or peat moss. This keeps them from kicking up too much wood dust into their own lungs while they're trying to get clean.
Cleaning and disposal
Eventually, you have to swap it out. Whether you do a full clean once a month or once a year with the deep litter method, that used pine bedding for chickens is "black gold" for your garden. Because pine is a high-carbon material, it needs time to break down. Don't throw it directly onto your tomato plants; the nitrogen in the chicken manure is too "hot" and will burn them. Pile it up, let it sit for six months to a year, and you'll have the best compost you've ever seen.
Next steps for a healthier flock
To get the most out of your bedding and keep your birds healthy, start by measuring your coop's floor space. You want at least 3 to 4 inches of depth. Go buy a bag of medium-flake kiln-dried pine and clear out any old, matted straw or hay. Install a high-quality thermometer/hygrometer in the coop. If the humidity stays above 70%, your pine bedding is going to struggle to stay dry, and you need more ventilation. Fix the airflow first, then let the pine do its job of keeping the floor cushioned and clean. Check the bottom of your birds' feet once a week for any dark spots—that's the best way to tell if your bedding choice is actually working for them.