You’ve seen the blue doors. Even if you haven't stood in front of them on the fourth floor of the Deutsche Bank Center, you know the legend. Those doors don't actually open—they’re a symbolic nod to The French Laundry in California—but what happens behind them is the stuff of high-stakes culinary drama. Per Se has held three Michelin stars since the very first New York guide dropped in 2006. That is twenty years of "exceptional cuisine, worth a special journey."
But honestly? Staying at the top for two decades in Manhattan is basically a contact sport.
People love to talk about the price. It’s expensive. Like, "rent-payment-on-a-studio-apartment" expensive. Currently, the nine-course tasting menu sits at around $425, and that’s before you start looking at the wine list or deciding if you want to drop another hundred bucks on a truffle supplement. But the conversation around per se New York Michelin stars isn't just about the bill. It’s about whether a restaurant that feels like a temple to 2004 can still hold its own in a 2026 world that’s obsessed with "vibes" and "small plates."
The Weight of Three Stars
Michelin doesn't just hand these things out. To keep three stars, you have to be perfect every single night. Not "pretty good." Not "mostly consistent." Perfect. At Per Se, this means Chef Thomas Keller’s team operates under a rule where no single ingredient is repeated throughout the entire meal. If there’s a chive on your "Oysters and Pearls," you won't see a chive for the rest of the night.
It’s a level of neuroticism that diners either find transcendent or totally exhausting.
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The Michelin inspectors obviously still find it transcendent. While other icons have stumbled—think back to when Daniel lost its third star—Per Se has remained part of the elite circle alongside Le Bernardin and Eleven Madison Park. There’s a specific "Keller-ness" to the experience. It’s quiet. The views of Central Park through those massive floor-to-ceiling windows are distracting in the best way possible.
What People Get Wrong About the "Decline"
You can't talk about Per Se without mentioning the Pete Wells review from 2016. The New York Times critic famously gave it two stars and called the mushroom bouillon "as murky and spiritless as bong water." It was the shot heard 'round the food world.
Critics and some diners recently have echoed this, claiming the service can feel "hide-and-seek" or that the food feels dated. I’ve heard people complain that the sommelier disappeared or that the Wagyu arrived a bit too cold. These aren't just minor gripes when you're paying $800 for two people.
But here’s the thing: every time someone writes Per Se off, it seems to double down. In 2026, the restaurant is still packed. Why? Because for a certain type of diner, the "dated" nature is actually the draw. It’s a formal, French-technique-heavy marathon that doesn't care about TikTok trends. They aren't going to put a neon sign on the wall or play loud hip-hop. They’re going to serve you "Coffee and Doughnuts" (which is actually a cappuccino semifreddo) and expect you to wear a jacket.
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The Signature Hits That Keep the Stars
If Keller ever took "Oysters and Pearls" off the menu, there would probably be a literal riot at Columbus Circle. It’s a sabayon of pearl tapioca with Island Creek oysters and a massive scoop of Regiis Ova caviar. It is salty, creamy, and ridiculously indulgent.
- The Salmon Cornets: These arrive before the meal even officially starts. They look like tiny ice cream cones but they’re filled with salmon tartare and sweet red onion crème fraîche.
- The Vegetable Tasting: Most three-star spots treat vegetarians as an afterthought. Not here. The vegetable menu is a parallel universe that’s often more creative than the meat one. Think "Salad of Heirloom French Beans" with a sharp mustard dressing that actually makes you excited about a bean.
- The Bread Service: Seriously. People go for the caviar but they stay for the butter and the Parker House rolls.
Is It Actually Worth the Hype?
It depends on what you value. If you want a party, go to Carbone. If you want a spiritual experience with a piece of charcoal-grilled Miyazaki Wagyu, Per Se is the place.
The service is where the most debate happens. Some diners find it "effortless and friendly," while others find it "stiff." There have been reports of staff being slightly off-put by last-minute champagne requests or being a bit too hurried. But then you hear the stories of a server shaving a "ridiculous" amount of truffle onto a plate just because a guest mentioned they liked them. It’s a high-wire act. One slip, and the "three-star magic" evaporates.
Practical Tips for Your Visit
If you're actually going to do this, don't just wing it.
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- The Salon Hack: If you don’t want to commit to the $425 price tag, the Salon (the lounge area) takes walk-ins and offers an à la carte menu. You still get the view, you still get the service, but you can leave with your savings account intact.
- Booking: Reservations open exactly one month in advance on Tock. They go fast. If you want a weekend, be on your phone the second they drop.
- Dress Code: They say "smart casual," but honestly, most people are still wearing jackets. Don’t be the person in a t-shirt; you’ll feel weird.
- The Wine: The pairings are pricey—often $425 or more on their own. If you’re on a budget (comparatively speaking), ask the sommelier for something interesting by the bottle. They have over 2,000 labels; they can find something for you.
Actionable Steps for the Fine Dining Hunter
If you're chasing per se New York Michelin stars or just trying to understand the hype, here is what you should actually do:
Check the current "Today's Menus" on the Thomas Keller website. They change daily. If you see a lot of ingredients you hate, don't book that week. Then, decide if you're a "Salon" person or a "Dining Room" person. The Salon is for the curious; the Dining Room is for the anniversary or the "I just closed a major deal" celebration.
Don't go expecting a trendy, fast-paced meal. This is a four-hour commitment. Put your phone away (mostly) and just watch the light change over Central Park. Whether you think it’s the best restaurant in the world or a relic of a bygone era, there is no denying that Per Se is a masterclass in how to maintain a legacy under the brightest spotlight in the city.