If you’ve ever driven down I-95 toward Florida, you’ve passed through the Pee Dee region SC. You probably didn't even realize it. Maybe you stopped for gas in Florence or grabbed a quick bite near Dillon, but for most people, this northeastern slice of South Carolina is just a blur of pine trees and billboard signs for South of the Border. Honestly? That's a mistake.
The Pee Dee isn't just a transit corridor. It's a place where the dirt is black and rich, the rivers tea-colored from tannins, and the history is so thick you can almost taste it in the air—right alongside the scent of vinegar-based BBQ. It’s named after the Pee Dee Native American tribe, and today, it covers about eight counties, including Florence, Darlington, Marion, and Horry (though locals usually separate the Grand Strand from the "real" Pee Dee).
What Most People Get Wrong About the Pee Dee Region SC
People think it’s just flat farmland. Well, they’re half right. It is the agricultural heart of the state, but there's a weird, haunting beauty to the landscape that you won't find in the Upstate or the Lowcountry. It’s got these things called Carolina Bays—mysterious, elliptical depressions in the earth that scientists still argue about. Were they caused by meteorites? Wind patterns? Nobody actually knows for sure.
The region is anchored by Florence. For a long time, Florence was just a "train town." It started as a rail hub where three different lines met, and for decades, that was its entire identity. But lately, things have shifted. The downtown area, which used to be pretty ghost-townish after 5:00 PM, is actually vibrant now. You’ve got the Francis Marion University Performing Arts Center bringing in legitimate talent, and local spots like Victor’s or Local Motive Brewing that actually give you a reason to stick around.
The Darlington Stripe and Horsepower
You can't talk about the Pee Dee region SC without mentioning Darlington. If you aren't a racing fan, Darlington Raceway might just look like an old asphalt track. But to anyone who knows NASCAR, it’s "The Track Too Tough to Tame." It’s built in a weird egg shape because the creator, Harold Brasington, promised a neighbor he wouldn't disturb his minnow pond. That one decision created one of the most difficult driving experiences in professional sports.
When the Southern 500 rolls around on Labor Day weekend, the energy in the Pee Dee changes. It’s not just a race; it’s a pilgrimage. The "Darlington Stripe"—the mark left on a car's right side after scraping the wall—is a badge of honor. It’s gritty. It’s loud. It’s exactly what the region is at its core: stubborn and proud.
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The Mystery of the Blackwaters
The Great Pee Dee River and the Little Pee Dee River are the lifeblood here. Unlike the clear mountain streams or the salty marshes of Charleston, these are blackwater rivers. They look like dark coffee. This happens because of the decaying vegetation in the swamps, which leaches tannins into the water. It’s stunningly beautiful, especially if you’re kayaking through the Sparkleberry Swamp or exploring the Waccamaw Management Area.
Wait, there’s a catch. These rivers are moody. When it rains, they swell, and the Pee Dee has dealt with some brutal flooding over the last decade, particularly after Hurricanes Matthew and Florence. Locals here have a sort of weathered resilience. They know the river gives, and the river takes.
Fishing is a religion. If you aren't out looking for bream, bass, or catfish, you're probably talking to someone who is. It’s a slow-paced lifestyle. You don’t rush the river, and you certainly don’t rush a conversation at a bait shop in Galivants Ferry.
The BBQ Divide
Let's get serious for a second: food. In the Pee Dee region SC, barbecue is a point of intense local debate. South Carolina is famous for having four "official" sauces, but in the Pee Dee, it’s all about the vinegar and pepper. No heavy mustard sauce like in Columbia. No thick tomato-based stuff like in the North. Just wood-fired whole hog, shredded and doused in a spicy, tangy vinegar wash.
If you want the real deal, you go to a place like Scott’s Bar-B-Que in Hemingway. Rodney Scott might have moved his main operations to Charleston and Birmingham, but the original pit in Hemingway is where the soul is. You’ll see the piles of hardwood out back. You’ll smell the smoke from three miles away. It’s not fancy. You eat off a paper plate. You’ll probably have grease on your shirt. And it will be the best meal of your life.
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Small Towns and Southern Gothic Vibes
Beyond the "big" city of Florence, the Pee Dee is made of small towns that feel like they’ve been frozen in a very specific era. Hartsville is a bit of an outlier—it’s polished. Thanks to Sonoco (a Fortune 500 company headquartered there) and Coker University, it has this refined, intellectual vibe. The Kalmia Gardens there are a must-see, especially when the mountain laurel is blooming. It’s a 35-acre botanical garden that feels like a private estate.
Then you have places like Bennettsville or Marion. These towns are filled with massive, crumbling Victorian homes and ancient live oaks draped in Spanish moss. It’s very Southern Gothic. There’s a quietness there that can feel either peaceful or lonely, depending on your mood.
- Lake City: This town is a miracle of revitalization. Every year, they host ArtFields, an epic 10-day art competition that turns the whole town into a gallery. They give away massive cash prizes, and it draws artists from all over the Southeast. It’s transformed Lake City from a tobacco town into a cultural destination.
- Dillon: Home to the aforementioned South of the Border. It’s tacky, it’s kitschy, and everyone loves to hate it. But it’s a landmark. Dillon is also the birthplace of Ben Bernanke, the former Fed Chairman. Strange mix, right?
- Cheraw: The birthplace of jazz legend Dizzy Gillespie. They have a statue of him and a festival every year. It’s a town that punches way above its weight class in terms of history and charm.
Why the Economy is Changing
For a long time, tobacco was king in the Pee Dee region SC. You can still see the old tobacco barns—small, tall wooden structures—dotting the fields. Most are falling apart now. When tobacco exited center stage, the region struggled.
But things are pivoting. Manufacturing and healthcare have stepped in. McLeod Health and MUSC Health are massive employers now. Then you have the Port of Dillon (Inland Port Greer's sibling), which is connecting the region to global trade via rail. It's not just about what grows in the ground anymore; it's about what moves through the pipes and over the tracks.
Is it perfect? No. Poverty is still a real issue in the rural stretches of the Pee Dee. Education gaps persist. But there is a grit here that you don't find in the tourist traps of the coast. People are working hard to redefine what it means to be from this part of the state.
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Tips for Exploring the Pee Dee Region SC
If you’re actually going to visit, don’t just stay on the highway.
- Get on the water. Rent a kayak or take a guided tour of the Lynches River or the Little Pee Dee. The cypress knees poking out of the dark water look like something out of a fantasy novel.
- Eat at a "Meat and Three." Look for places where the parking lot is full of white pickup trucks at 11:30 AM. That’s where you’ll find the best fried chicken, butter beans, and cornbread.
- Visit the Mars Bluff Crater. Most people don't know that the US Air Force accidentally dropped a nuclear bomb on a family's playhouse in the Pee Dee back in 1958. (Don't worry, the nuclear core didn't detonate, just the conventional explosives). You can still see the crater. It's a bizarre piece of Cold War history sitting in the middle of the woods.
- Check the ArtFields dates. If you can time your trip for late April/early May, Lake City is the place to be. Even if you aren't an "art person," the atmosphere is incredible.
The Pee Dee region SC doesn't try too hard to impress you. It doesn't have the manicured lawns of Hilton Head or the neon lights of Myrtle Beach. It’s honest. It’s a place of muddy rivers, fast cars, and people who will tell you their life story if you sit still long enough.
Actionable Insights for Your Visit:
- Route Planning: If traveling North-South, exit I-95 at Highway 52. It takes you through the heart of the region rather than bypassing it.
- Best Time to Visit: Spring (March-May) or Fall (October-November). Summer is brutally humid and the mosquitoes in the swamps are no joke.
- Photography: Head to the cypress swamps at "Golden Hour" (just before sunset). The way the light hits the blackwater is a photographer's dream.
- Support Local: Skip the chain restaurants in Florence. Go to the family-owned spots in the smaller surrounding towns like Effingham or Timmonsville to get an authentic taste of the region.
The Pee Dee is waiting. It’s quiet, it’s deep, and it’s a whole lot more than just a pit stop on the way to somewhere else.