If you close your eyes and think about 1990s golf, you don’t see a generic polo shirt or a dry-fit cap. You see a flash of patterned silk, a flat cap tilted just right, and those iconic, baggy trousers tucked into long socks. We are talking, of course, about Payne Stewart. He was the golfer who wore knickers at a time when the rest of the PGA Tour was moving toward pleated khakis and corporate uniformity. It wasn't just a gimmick. Honestly, it was a statement of identity that almost didn't happen.
Stewart didn't start his career looking like a throwback to the 1920s. In the early 80s, he was just another guy in a visor. But he realized early on that professional golf is as much about the "show" as it is about the scorecard. He wanted to stand out. He wanted to be remembered. By leaning into the traditional plus-fours, he didn't just find a style; he found a brand that made him the most recognizable person on any fairway in the world.
The Origin of the Plus-Four Look
Why did he do it? Most people think it was just for the cameras. While that’s partly true—Stewart was a savvy businessman who signed a massive deal with the NFL to wear team colors on his knickers—the roots go deeper into the history of the game.
Golf used to be a formal affair. If you look at photos of Bobby Jones or Gene Sarazen, they weren't wearing joggers. They wore knickerbockers. These were practical; they kept your pant legs out of the morning dew and the mud. By the time Stewart arrived, the look was dead. It was "old man" stuff. Stewart brought it back with a flair that felt rebellious rather than dusty. He’d pair bright yellow socks with a Kansas City Chiefs colored outfit, or go full "Old Tom Morris" with a muted tweed.
He once joked that if he played poorly, at least people would remember what he wore. But he rarely played poorly. He won three majors. He was a Ryder Cup hero. The clothes worked because the game backed them up.
It Wasn't Always Easy
It’s easy to forget how much "stick" he took for the clothes early on. Peers teased him. The media called it a costume. Imagine walking onto the range at Pinehurst or Pebble Beach looking like a 19th-century chimney sweep while everyone else is in cutting-edge tech gear. That takes a specific kind of confidence. Stewart had it in spades. He was the golfer who wore knickers because he was comfortable being the center of attention.
That Iconic 1999 U.S. Open Moment
If you want to understand the impact of this style, you have to look at the 1999 U.S. Open at Pinehurst No. 2. It was a brutal, rainy, stressful week. Phil Mickelson was waiting for his first major and literally had a pager in his bag in case his wife went into labor.
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Stewart was trailing. He was grinding. On the 18th hole, he needed a par putt—about 15 feet—to win.
He didn't just make the putt. He punctuated it with the most famous celebration in golf history: the one-legged "stork" pose, fist thrust into the air, with his knickers billowing in the North Carolina wind. That silhouette is now a bronze statue at Pinehurst. It is the definitive image of 1990s golf. Sadly, it was his final major. Just months later, he was gone in a freak plane accident that shook the sports world to its core.
The Anatomy of the Outfit
It wasn't just "pants." It was a system. To get that look right, you need a few specific components:
- The Flat Cap: Also known as an Ivy cap or Gatsby hat. Stewart’s were often custom-made to match his socks.
- The Knickers: Technically "plus-fours," meaning they extend four inches below the knee to create that specific fold.
- The Socks: These had to be knee-high and usually featured an argyle pattern or a bold solid color.
- The Shoes: He often wore classic leather tassels or saddles, which completed the vintage aesthetic.
Why Nobody Else Can Pull It Off
Since Stewart’s passing in 1999, several golfers have tried to bring the look back. Rickie Fowler wore them once as a tribute. Bryson DeChambeau wore the flat cap for years, but he eventually ditched the knickers for more modern trousers.
The problem is that for anyone else, it feels like a costume. For Stewart, it felt like skin. He had a specific swagger—a rhythmic, fluid swing that matched the elegance of the clothes. If you wear knickers and shoot an 85, you look like a clown. If you wear them and stare down Tiger Woods, you’re a legend.
The NFL Connection
One of the wildest parts of Stewart's career was his sponsorship deal. He wore the colors of the NFL team closest to where the tournament was being held. If the Tour was in Florida, he’d be in Dolphins aqua or Bucs pewter. In Philly, he was in Eagles green. This was genius marketing. It gave local fans a reason to pull for him, even if they didn't follow golf. He was the people's champion because he dressed like their Sunday afternoon obsession.
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Technical Nuance: Knickers vs. Plus-Fours
A lot of people use these terms interchangeably, but if you’re a gear-head, you know there’s a difference. Standard knickers end right at the knee. They are a bit restrictive. Plus-fours, which Stewart preferred, have that extra four inches of fabric. This allows for more freedom of movement during the hip rotation of a golf swing.
When you’re swinging a club at 115 mph, you can't have your pants catching on your kneecaps. Stewart’s tailor, a man named Tino Cosma, understood this. Every pair was engineered for the physics of the game. It was high-performance gear disguised as a 1920s throwback.
The Legacy Beyond the Fabric
We talk about the golfer who wore knickers because of the clothes, but we remember him because of the man he became. Early in his career, Stewart was known for being a bit of a "brat." He could be arrogant. He could be difficult with the press.
But by 1999, he had changed. He had become a mentor to younger players. He had found a deep sense of faith. The clothes became a symbol of a man who was comfortable in his own skin—someone who didn't feel the need to conform to the boring, grey-slacks world of the corporate 90s.
When the U.S. Ryder Cup team won the "Battle of Brookline" shortly before his death, Stewart showed his true character. In his match against Colin Montgomerie, the crowd was being incredibly hostile toward the Scotsman. Stewart, seeing how upset Monty was, eventually conceded the match on the final hole. He didn't care about the point; he cared about the sportsmanship. That’s the guy in the knickers.
Practical Insights for Modern Golfers
Can you wear knickers today? Technically, yes. But here is the reality of trying to channel your inner Payne Stewart in the modern era:
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- Commitment is Key: You cannot half-ass this look. If you wear the knickers but a modern baseball cap, you’ll look like you got dressed in the dark. Go full flat cap or don't do it at all.
- Tailoring Matters: Off-the-rack golf knickers often look like pajamas. To avoid looking sloppy, the "drop" of the fabric below the knee needs to be precise.
- The "Skill Tax": Be prepared. If you show up to a local muni in plus-fours, you are effectively signing a contract that says you will shoot under 80. It’s an unwritten rule of the game.
- Weather Considerations: Knickers are actually great for wet weather because the bottoms don't get soaked in the grass, but they are surprisingly hot in the summer due to the heavy socks.
How to Find Modern Versions
If you’re looking to buy a set, you won't find them at your local big-box sports store. You have to look at specialty shops like Bunker Mentality or Golf Knickers. Many of these companies saw a massive surge in interest during the "vintage" trend of the mid-2020s.
Even Nike and Puma have released "tribute" collections that feature the flat cap, though they rarely go all-in on the trousers. The look remains a niche, protected by those who value the history of the game over the aerodynamics of polyester.
Payne Stewart wasn't just a golfer who wore knickers. He was a reminder that golf is a game played with soul. It’s supposed to be fun. It’s supposed to have some flair. While the modern Tour is filled with players who look like they were designed in a wind tunnel, we still look back at the guy in the argyle socks and the baggy pants. He looked like golf.
If you want to honor that legacy, don't just buy the pants. Play with the same joy he did. Tip your cap. Concede a putt when the other guy is struggling. And for heaven's sake, don't be afraid to stand out on the first tee.
To start your own journey into the traditional side of the game, look into local "Hickory Golf" societies. These groups play with authentic pre-1935 wooden-shafted clubs and strictly enforce the vintage dress code. It’s the closest you can get to experiencing the game the way Stewart’s idols did. Alternatively, if you just want the style without the 100-year-old technology, start with a high-quality wool flat cap. It’s the easiest way to add a bit of Stewart-era class to your game without needing a tailor on speed dial.