You're standing in 90-degree heat next to a palm tree in the Coachella Valley. Two hours later, you’re scraping frost off a windshield at 7,000 feet. That is the reality of the trek from Palm Springs to Big Bear, a journey that spans only about 80 miles but feels like traveling between two different planets. Most people look at Google Maps, see the short distance, and assume it’s a breezy afternoon cruise. It isn't.
It’s a vertical assault on your car’s braking system and your own equilibrium.
The drive is iconic. It's also notoriously fickle. I’ve seen people try to make this run in July wearing nothing but flip-flops, only to realize that the mountain air at the summit is thirty degrees cooler than the desert floor. Or worse, they try it in January without checking the R3 chain requirements and end up stuck in a turnout in Running Springs, watching everyone else slide by.
If you want to get from the desert to the pines without losing your mind or your brake pads, there are things you simply have to know.
The Three Routes: Highway 38 vs. Highway 18
Most GPS apps are going to scream at you to take the I-10 West to the 30 (the 210) and then up Highway 330 through Running Springs. Honestly? That is usually a mistake. If you are going from Palm Springs to Big Bear, you have three distinct choices, and the "fastest" one is often the most miserable.
The Back Way (Highway 38)
This is the local's secret, though it's not much of a secret anymore. You head through Mentone and take the "Onyx Summit" route. It’s longer in terms of mileage, but the grade is significantly more gradual. You aren't dealing with the white-knuckle switchbacks of the 330. Plus, you hit the quiet side of the mountain first. You enter Big Bear through the east end, near Big Bear City, which is way less congested than the Village.
📖 Related: Gomez Palacio Durango Mexico: Why Most People Just Drive Right Through (And Why They’re Wrong)
The Front Way (Highway 330 to 18)
This is the tourist funnel. It starts in Highland. It’s steep. It’s curvy. If you’re stuck behind a slow-moving semi-truck or a nervous driver in a minivan, your two-hour trip just became three. The only reason to take this is if you absolutely need to stop in Running Springs for a specific reason or if you just love the view of the Inland Empire smog layer from above.
The Desert Route (Highway 18 via Lucerne Valley)
This is the weird one. You drive out past Yucca Valley and Landers, heading north through the high desert. Then, you climb the "backside" of the mountain. It is incredibly steep. I’m talking about a sheer wall of granite. But there is almost zero traffic. If the 10 freeway is a parking lot due to an accident in Yucaipa, this is your escape hatch.
Why Your Car Might Hate This Drive
We need to talk about altitude. Palm Springs sits at about 450 feet above sea level. Big Bear Lake is at 6,750 feet. That is a massive jump in a very short period.
Your engine is going to gasp for air. Naturally aspirated engines—the ones without turbos—lose roughly 3% of their power for every 1,000 feet of elevation gain. By the time you reach the summit on your way from Palm Springs to Big Bear, your car has lost nearly 20% of its "oomph." If you’re driving an older car, watch the temperature gauge like a hawk. The combination of steep grades and thin air is a recipe for overheating, even if it’s "cool" outside.
And then there are the brakes.
Going up is easy. Coming down is where people mess up. If you ride your brakes the whole way down the 330, you will smell them. That acrid, burning metallic scent? That’s the smell of your brake pads glazing over. Use your lower gears. Even in an automatic, shift into "L" or use the paddle shifters to let the engine do the braking. It sounds loud, but it saves your life.
The Seasonal Trap
Big Bear is a four-season resort, but "spring" in Palm Springs is "dead of winter" on the mountain.
In February, you can be lounging by a pool at the Korakia Pensione in the morning and be in a full-blown blizzard by lunch. Caltrans (the California Department of Transportation) does not play games. If they say "Chains Required," they mean it. Even if you have an AWD Subaru with "great tires," if you don't have those chains in your trunk, the Highway Patrol will turn you around at the base of the mountain.
I’ve watched it happen. It’s heartbreaking to see a family get 90% of the way there only to be sent back down because they didn't spend $50 at Pep Boys.
Essential Pit Stops Along the Way
Don't just blast through. The transition from the Sonoran Desert to the San Bernardino National Forest is beautiful if you actually look at it.
✨ Don't miss: Garden City Weather SC: What Locals Know That Tourists Usually Miss
- Oak Glen: If you take the 38 route, you’re near the apple country. In the fall, this is mandatory. Get the mini donuts.
- The Greenspot Market: Just before you start the climb on the 38. They have legendary beef jerky. It’s the official fuel of mountain commuters.
- Keller Peak Fire Lookout: If you take the 18/330 route, there’s a turn-off for this lookout. On a clear day, you can see all the way to the Pacific Ocean and down into the desert. It puts the whole geography into perspective.
What People Get Wrong About the Timing
You'll see "1 hour 45 minutes" on your phone. Don't believe it.
Friday afternoons are a nightmare. Everyone from LA and Orange County is trying to get up the hill. If you’re leaving Palm Springs to Big Bear on a Friday at 4:00 PM, you are merging into a river of brake lights. The best time to go? Tuesday morning. Or Wednesday. Basically, anytime the rest of the world is at work. If you have to go on a weekend, leave at the crack of dawn. Beat the rush, grab breakfast at Teddy Bear Restaurant in the Village, and watch the crowds arrive while you’re already on your second cup of coffee.
Realities of the High Altitude Lifestyle
Once you arrive, the air is dry. Like, "my skin is cracking" dry. Coming from the desert, you might think you’re used to it, but the mountain air hits differently. Drink twice as much water as you think you need.
Also, alcohol hits harder at 7,000 feet. That craft beer at Big Bear Brewing Co.? It’s going to feel like two beers. Take it slow, or you’ll wake up the next morning feeling like someone hit you with a snow shovel.
Actionable Steps for a Successful Trip
To ensure your trip from Palm Springs to Big Bear doesn't end in a tow truck or a headache, follow these specific protocols:
- Check the Quickmap App: This is the official Caltrans app. It shows real-time road closures, chain controls, and even where the snowplows are currently located. Do not rely on standard map apps for road conditions; they lag behind.
- Verify Your Coolant: Before leaving the desert, check your coolant levels. High-altitude climbs are the ultimate stress test for your cooling system.
- Pack Layers: The temperature differential is usually 25 to 35 degrees. If it's 85°F in Palm Springs, expect 55°F in Big Bear. Bring a jacket even if you feel ridiculous carrying it to your car in the desert sun.
- The Gas Rule: Never start the climb with less than half a tank. Idling in snow traffic or heavy weekend congestion burns more fuel than you realize, and there are no gas stations on the steep sections of the 18 or 38.
- Adjust Your Tire Pressure: Cold air causes tire pressure to drop. If your "low tire" light comes on once you reach the summit, don't panic. It's likely just the temperature change, but you should still check the PSI at the 7-Eleven in town.
The drive is spectacular. You’ll pass through scrub brush, Joshua trees (if you take the back way), manzanita, and finally, the massive Ponderosa pines. It’s one of the few places on earth where you can truly experience such a radical ecological shift in under two hours. Just respect the mountain, watch your brakes, and bring the chains.